The Noses: Christine Nagel

A New Nose for Hermès

Hermès appointed its first in-house nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, a little over ten years ago. Now, as Ellena approaches his seventh decade, he’s preparing to hand over the reins to Christine Nagel, who developed blockbuster Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Jimmy Choo Flash and Guerlain’s Les Elixirs Charnels collection. It’s no ordinary handover. ‘Jean-Claude is giving it to me little by little’, says Nagel, it’s being what Ellena refers to as ‘the spirit of the house’.

Christine Nagel the new nose for Hermès since summer 2014 wearing her Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso watch….

(Click photo to enlarge).

Ellena personally chose Nagel as his apprentice, and she’ll take over in a few months or a few years, whenever the two of them decide that she’s ready. For now, she’s slowly and meticulously soaking up that aforementioned spirit. ‘She’s watching the person in charge of fashion, silk, jewelry, talking to all of the people who make Hermès, because the brand is its artists and craftsmen,” says Ellena. “She has to see everyone put a lot of energy and work into the details, the small details are so important.”

Not surprisingly, Nagel, who’s always wanted to be a nose, is a bit intimidated. ‘There’s so much freedom to take a risk, to have a strong opinion’, says Nagel. ‘It’s very exciting but also very dangerous!’ She does, however, have one leg up on her predecessor: She actually wears perfume and compares her own skin to ‘a playground’.

‘I have a creative preference for compositions characterised by simplicity, which mirrors their philosophy’. ‘Favourite’ notes go in cycles: ‘I’ve phases when I’m deeply into a single type: woody, oriental, green facets. It can turn almost into an obsession, until I have the feeling I’ve found what I’m looking for, and then I move on.’ And is it easier to create for women, or men? ‘Gender in perfume is an everlasting debate. In reality, anyone can wear whatever he or she likes, even if the fragrance is supposedly ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’. There’s no right or wrong…’

Fendi Theorema

• 1998 Fendi Theorema
• 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Nuit
• 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Rose
• 1999 Lancôme  Mille Et Une Roses
• 2000 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Femme
• 2001 Chopard Madness
• 2001 Cartier Eau de Cartier
• 2002 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Man
• 2002 Nina Ricci Mémoire L’Homme

Nina Ricci Mémoire d’Homme

• 2003 Guerlain With Love
• 2003 Morgan de Toi Morgan de Toi Femme
• 2003 Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian)
• 2004 Thierry Mugler B.Men
• 2005 Thierry Mugler Angel Garden of Stars – The Lily Angel
• 2005 Christian Dior Miss Dior Chérie
• 2006 Cartier Délices de Cartier
• 2006 Roberto Verino Mellow
• 2007 Jo Malone London Rain Collection, White Jasmin & Mint
• 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Oriental Brûlant
• 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Gourmand Coquin
• 2008 Lalique Lalique White

Lalique White

• 2008 Thierry Mugler A.Men Pure Coffee
• 2008 Thierry Mugler Miroir, Miroir: Miroir des Envies / Mirror of Desires (with Louise Turner)
• 2008 John Galliano by John Galliano (with Aurélien Guichard)
• 2009 Lalique Encre Noire Pour Elle
• 2009 Lancome Hypnôse Senses
• 2009 Lolita Lempicka Si Lolita
• 2009 Azzaro Travelling
• 2009 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection Boisé Torride
• 2010 Jo Malone English pear & Freesi
• 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Femme
• 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Homme
• 2010 Emilio Pucci Miss Pucci (with François Demachy)
• Pierre Cardin Signé Cardin for Him
• 2011 Lalique Hommage a L’Homme
• 2013 Jimmy Choo Flash

 

by Jean Amr