Urwerk: Light and Shadow

In a bold departure from its reputation of producing timepieces that are albeit rare, technically advanced, elaborate to the point of complexity and classy, but ultimately undisputedly, for men, comes the URWERK UR-106, known as the ‘Lotus’, the new timepiece was made especially for women.

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

The Urwerk UR-106 Lotus is the first timepiece that the independent brand has especially created for women (Click photo to enlarge).

The cases of both editions of the UR-106 Lotus are made of stainless steel and titanium, with an extra-coating in PVD for the black version. While the other watches of the brand are usually quite massive, this one comes with slightly smaller dimensions (Width 35 mm, length 49,4 mm, height 14,45 mm), which you’ll admit, are very far from the usual 30mm to 35mm diameter of a classical ladies’ watch.

What really is different though? What makes this Urwerk (which couldn’t be more Urwerk) a watch that is dedicated to women? First of all, the name,  that is more feminine. While the other watches from the brand are named ‘Full Metal Jacket’, ‘Iron Night’, ‘Hammerhead’, ‘Torpedo’, ‘Cobra’, Tarantula’ or ‘White Shark’, the Urwerk UR-106 is named with more subtle designations: Lotus or Black Lotus, that, you’ll admit, is less military or aggressive than the rest of the collection. The Lotus name comes from the shape of the central carrousel, with a six-lobed flower at its midst. Well, let’s agree that it is a kind of modern and stylized version of a Lotus flower.

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

Urwerk UR-106 Lotus (Click photo to enlarge).

“With its glittering gemstones and soft curves we created the UR-106 with one image in mind; that of the lotus flower, which in my imagination represents the beauty of women in all their complexity.”

Explaining the name and inspiration was Martin Frei, the company’s chief designer and co-founder, who described the process of creation a “a stylistic exercise that was unprecedented,” having “long considered what we regard as the ultimate challenge, because creating for women is indeed a perilous undertaking.”

Urwerk-UR-106-lotus-watch-221

Urwerk UR-106 comes in two antithetical versions: titanium and steel with diamonds on the bezel, crown and buckle or black PVC-coated titanium and steel set with black diamonds. (Click photo to enlarge).

The Urwerk Lotus relies on a fully mechanical movement, finished with circular graining, shot peening, brushing and chamfered screw heads – like every other Urwerk watches – with the extra-module that runs the satellites on the top. Again, no difference here between the ladies’ model and another model dedicated to men. The movement is automatic, very well finished and it boasts 48 hours of power reserve.

In terms of complications the watch is equipped with the satellite hours, Inside, three satellites, each with four hour numerals, sweep along the minutes scale in an analogue and digital indication of time, complemented by a moon phase in the display.

UR106-explosion

The Urwerk UR-106 Lotus is powered by the selfwinding UR 6.01 mechanical movement offering 48 hours of power reserve and features a revised version of the hour satellite hours. Three satellite, each with four hour numerals, sweep along the minute scale in an analogue and digital indication of time (Click photo to enlarge).

The carrousel and its satellites have been meticulously satin-finished by hand, and with each hour and minute numeral hand-painted. The extremely-fine minutes scale was fashioned in the watchmaker’s workshops, whilst the lapis lazuli blue of the moon specifically chosen from amongst hundreds. The front of the watch is covered with the thick sapphire crystal.

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

Urwerk UR-106 Lotus and Black Lotus (Click photo to enlarge).

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

Urwerk UR-106 Lotus.Thanks to the use of gemstones and soft style curves, the case (35 mm x 49.4 mm x 14.45 mm) nicely harmonise with the female wrist (Click photo to enlarge).

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

Urwerk UR-106 Lotus (Click photo to enlarge).

URWERK UR-106 Lotus Watch Black White

Urwerk UR-106 Black Lotus. (Click photo to enlarge).

URWERK-UR-106-Black-Lotus-1

Urwerk UR-106 Black Lotus. (Click photo to enlarge).

Is the Urwerk UR-106 Lotus a proper ladies’ watch? Not really. It’s a pure Urwerk that bears some feminine qualities. Is it something that we personally like? Yes, a lòt. Why women should wear terrible watches that only pop out because of the few diamonds that are set in the bezel…? They are totally allowed (and deeply encouraged) to love complicated, bold and unique creations from independent watchmakers too. In fact, this UR-106 could well be the most versatile watch of the entire collection!

Both versions are limited to just 11 pieces.

More details on URWERK.com.

by Jean Amr

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