A portrait, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud

 

Jacques-Cavallier-Belletrud

Renowned perfumers often leave their mark with a single famous creation that changes the industry, but a few do so with not one – or two – but many different perfumes. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier is just such a figure, having changed our scented world with such industry changers as Jean Paul Gaultier’s Classique, Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme’s Poême and Nina Ricci’s Nina. He has created perfumes for Maison’s as famous as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Rochas, designers like Giorgio Armani and Stella McCartney, and niches like Caudalie and Eau d’Italie.

Although Jacques Cavallier has one of the most extensive backgrounds in natural scent materials, it was inventive use of Calone-1951, the component sometimes referred to as ‘watermelon ketone’ that brought him the most attention for his early creations. He brought a freshness and light to perfumes like L’Eau d’Issey that re-imagined what a fragrance could be.

Jacques-Cavallier-Belletrud-Test-Flacon

As a schoolboy in Grasse, Jacques Cavalier Belletrud would walk by an imposing portal. He had no idea what sat behind the wrought iron gates that so intrigued him. Little could he have imagined that, in 2016, this very place would become his creative workshop.

From my earliest childhood I heard all about perfume. Creating scents is like breathing for me – it’s just the obvious thing to do.

Jacques Cavallier Belletrud

Jacques Cavallier was fittingly born in 1962 in Grasse, France, the third in a series of perfuming men. Like his father and grandfather before him, he dedicated himself to the study there in his home turf.

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At the age of eight, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud went to his father, and told him he wanted to follow in his footsteps. He learned perfume notes the way other children practiced piano scales. When he got good grades in school, his father allowed him to weigh out formulas. The day after receiving his high school diploma, he began working in a perfume factory in Grasse, where he learned to distill flowers.

He studied French and Spanish at the University of Nice, and at 18, he created his first formula – but his father reminded him that becoming a perfumer takes much more than mixing a few scents together. It would take a lot of hard work to be hired at the famous perfume and flavor company Firmenich that he met Alberto Morillas, with whom he collaborated on many perfumes, and where he would spend the next 22 years.

Jacques-Cavallier-Belletrud-Test-Lab

Jacques is a perfumer of great variation and considerable range. His work is intensely wearable, and it may be due alone to this singular quality that he was awarded the Prix François Coty at the Prix International du Parfum in 2004.

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  • 1990 Jean Paul Gaultier – Femme (f)
  • 1992 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey (f)
  • 1992 Cartier – Pasha de Cartier (m)
  • 1993 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Femme re-named) (f)
  • 1993 Azzaro – Oh La La (f)
  • 1994 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme (m)
  • 1995 Lancôme – Poême (f)
  • 1995 Yves Saint Laurent – Opium Pour Homme (m)
  • 1995 Yves Saint Laurent – Opium Pour Homme Eau de Parfum (m)
  • 1996 Bvlgari – Pour Homme (m)
  • 1997 Shiseido – Vocalise (f)
  • 1998 Rochas – Alchimie (f)
  • 1998 Christian Dior – Eau de Doce Vita (f)
  • 1998 Salvatore Ferragamo – Pour Femme (f)
  • 1998 Issey Miyake – Le Feu d’Issey (f)
  • 1999 Bvlgari – Pour Homme Extrême (m)
  • 1999 Krizia – Easy Krizia (f)
  • 1999 Paco Rabanne – Ultraviolet (f)

 
Lancôme-Poême

  • 2000 Issey Miyake – Le Feu d’Issey Light (f)
  • 2000 Jil Sander – Sander For Men (m)
  • 2000 Givenchy – Haute Couture (f)
  • 2000 Givenchy – Haute Couture Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2000 Giorgio Armani – Mania (f)
  • 2000 Calvin Klein – Truth (f)
  • 2000 Boucheron – Initial (f)
  • 2001 Van Cleef & Arpels – Zanzibar (m)
  • 2001 Rochas – Aquaman (m)
  • 2001 Fendi – Theorema Uomo (m)
  • 2001 Yves Saint Laurent – Nu (f)
  • 2001 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Pour Homme (m)
  • 2001 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Metal Beach (f)
  • 2002 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Aquatic Plastic (f)
  • 2002 Van Cleef & Arpels – Murmure (f)
  • 2002 Carolina Herrera – Chic (f)
  • 2002 Oscar de La Renta – Intrusion (f)
  • 2002 Salvatore Ferragamo – Parfum Subtil (f)
  • 2002 Yves Saint Laurent – M7 (m)
  • 2003 Yves Saint Laurent – Nu Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2003 Yves Saint Laurent – Rive Gauche Pour Homme (m)
  • 2003 Rochas – Absolu (f)
  • 2003 Lancôme – Calypso (f)
  • 2003 Roger & Gallet – Eau de Gingembre (f/m)
  • 2003 Bvlgari – Eau Parfumee au The Blanc (f/m)
  • 2003 Ermenegildo Zegna – Essenza di Zegna (m)
  • 2003 Stella McCartney – Stella (f)
  • 2003 Alexander McQueen – Kingdom (f)
  • 2004 Alexander McQueen – Kingdom (Lim.Edition) (f)
  • 2004 Issey Miyake – L’Eau Bleue d’Issey Pour Homme (m)
  • 2004 Yves Saint Laurent – Cinema (f)
  • 2004 Calvin Klein – Eternity Moment (f)
  • 2004 Boucheron – Trouble (f)
  • 2005 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme (m)
  • 2005 Exte – J’S Exte Woman (f)
  • 2005 Roberto Cavali – Serpentine (f)
  • 2006 Stella McCartney – Stella in Two Peony (f)
  • 2006 Stella McCartney – Stella in Two Amber (f)
  • 2006 Nina Ricci – Nina (f)
  • 2006 Kenzo – L’Eau par Kenzo Love L’Eau (f)
  • 2007 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Intense (m)
  • 2007 Christain Dior – Midnight Poison (f)
  • 2007 Christain Dior – Midnight Poison Extrait de Parfum (f)
  • 2007 Yves Saint Laurent – Elle (f)
  • 2007 Nina Ricci – Nina Prestige Edition (f)
  • 2007 Diesel – Fuel For Life Homme (m)
  • 2007 Diesel – Fuel For Life Femme (f)
  • 2008 Diesel – Fuel For Life Unlimited (f)
  • 2008 Diesel – Fuel For Life Cologne for Men (m)
  • 2008 Yves Roger – Tendre Jasmin (f)
  • 2008 Lancôme – Magnifique (f)
  • 2008 Yves Saint Laurent – Elle Summer Edition (f)
  • 2008 Nina Ricci – Nina Gold Edition (f)
  • 2008 Kenzo – L’Eau par Kenzo Ice Pour Homme (m)
  • 2008 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men (m)
  • 2008 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Extract Shiro Kurumata (f)
  • 2008 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Marine (m)
  • 2009 Bvlgari – Blv Eau de Parfum II (f)
  • 2009 Yves Roger – So Elixer (f)
  • 2009 Nina Ricci – Nina Precious Swarovski Edition (f)
  • 2009 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Ettore Sottsass Edition (f)

 

christian-dior-midnight-poison-elixir-perfume2

  • 2010 Yves Roger – So Elixer Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2010 Yves Roger – Vanilla Noire (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Summer Edition (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Summer Edition (m)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Fleur de Bois (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Edition Bois (m)
  • 2010 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X Jewel Edition (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X Love Actually (f)
  • 2011 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds Black Carat for Her (f)
  • 2011 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds Black Carat for Him (m)
  • 2011 Yves Roger – Vanilla Noire Eau de Parfum (f)
  • 2011 Caudalie – Thé Des Vignes (f)
  • 2011 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Toniq (m)
  • 2011 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Marine Toniq (m)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Love Actually (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Silver My Skin (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 01) (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 02) (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 03) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – L.I.L.Y. (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 01) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 02) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 03) (f)
  • 2012 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X L’Eau (f)
  • 2012 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport (m)
  • 2012 Halle Berry – Closer (f)
  • 2012 Eau d’Italie – Un Bateau Pour Capri (f)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Florentine Ires (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Indonesian Oud (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Javanese Patchouli (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Italian Bergamot (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Sicilian Mandarin (m)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Beach Walk (f)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Flower Market (f)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Funfair Evening (f)
  • 2012 Nina Ricci – Nina Fantasy (f)
  • 2013 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Belle et Corset (f)
  • 2014 Stella McCartney – Stella (re-launch) (f)
  • 2014 Caudalie – Parfum Devin (f)
  • 2014 O Boticário – Linda na Dança (f)
  • 2014 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Collector Edition ’14) (f)
  • 2014 Bvlgari – Aqva Amara (m)
  • 2015 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Pirate (Collector Edition ’15) (f)
  • 2015 Bvlgari – Eau Parfumee au The Noir (f/m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Splendida Magnolia Sensual (f)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Ombero (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Garanat (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Gyan (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Malakeos (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Onekh (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Tygar (m)
  • 2017 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Atlantiqve (m)
  • 2017 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Collector Edition ’17) (f)
  • 2019 Bvlgari – Falkar (m)
  • 2019 Bvlgari – Opalon (m)2019 Bvlgari – Yasep (m)

For a long time Jacques Cavallier Belletrud worked for Firmenich, a company that produces perfumes for other brands, he moved on to the LVMH group (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey SE) in 2012, where he works together with François Demachy as in-house master perfumer, and becoming the exclusive perfumer for Louis Vuitton. Named Maître Parfumeur of Louis Vuitton, he traveled the world for four years to perfect the first collection of Louis Vuitton perfumes. The French Maison hadn’t released any scents since the mid-twentieth century, marking new territory in creative exploration for them.

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  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Turbulences (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Rose des Vents (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Mille Feux (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Apogée (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Matière Noire (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Dans la Peau (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Contre Moi (f)

 

Louis-Vuitton-perfume_trunk_main

 

  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Sur la Route (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Ombre Nomade (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Orage (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Nouveau Monde (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – L’Immensité (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Attrape-Rêves (f)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Au Hasard (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Le Jour se Lève (f)

 

  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Cactus Garden (f/m)
  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Afternoon Swim (f/m)
  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Sun Song (f/m)

Wondering what Jacques Cavallier Belletrud creates for us in the future…..

 

 

 

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