Louvre Mona Lisa Is The Second Version

The Mona Lisa as it is framed in the Louvre.

Research confirms Da Vinci painted earlier version of his masterpiece. Preeminent scientist and art historian Salvatore Lorusso proves new data changing perception of how Louvre portrait is viewed,

Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait of Lisa del Giocondo ‘Mona Lisa’ is the most famous painting in the world. In his new book; ‘Is the Louvre Mona Lisa Leonardo’s second version?’  (L’Erma di Bretschneider – Roma), an in-depth analysis of the original documents, the historical sources and analytical data, Scientist and Art Historian Professor Salvatore Lorusso provides the evidence which settles a long-standing controversial issue: that the artist painted two versions of his immortal masterpiece – the first in c.1503-06 of a young Lisa and the second, the Louvre Mona Lisa, from c.1513 on.

Given the execution of the documented original portrait of Lisa can now be reliably dated, any question of whether it is the Louvre portrait must be considered in the context of the chronology and evolution of Leonardo’s work. Unquestionable evidence shows Leonardo painted two distinct Mona Lisa paintings with different characteristics at different times: the first, an unfinished version and the second, a more finished version, stylistically and structurally different from the first.

Salvatore Lorusso, Professor at University of Bologna

Lorusso’s research takes a critical analysis of numerous publications by Leonardo experts, a small number of whom, despite the evidence, still maintain that the Louvre Mona Lisa was started c.1503 and worked on until near the end of Leonardo’s life in 1519, which is now proven to be an impossibility. 

The historical documents analyzed by Lorusso – many of which have only been discovered recently – show the Louvre Mona Lisa could not have been the original portrait of Lisa del Giocondo started in Florence c. 1503, but instead was likely executed by Leonardo in Rome c.1513-16. Lorusso support this information through an in-depth analysis of the scientific data collected by the Centre de Recherche et de Restauration des Musées de France (C2RMF). Lorusso’s findings prove that the original portrait of Lisa is another version by the great Master, confirming Leonardo painted two Mona Lisas. 

About Salvatore Lorusso

Salvatore Lorusso was formerly a full professor at the University of Bologna, the world’s oldest university, which boasts eminent alumni such as Albrecht Durer, Erasmus, Copernicus, Petrarch, Thomas Becket, Umberto Eco and no less than five popes. With a deep interest in both art and science, Lorusso was among the founders of the first Faculty of Conservation of Cultural Heritage in Italy and is editor-in-chief of the historical-technical Journal ‘Conservation Science in Cultural Heritage’ where the human sciences and experimental sciences meet the arts.

His deep experience and scholarship in both science and art is demonstrated in over 440 publications in national and international journals and 24 independent volumes. His expertise constitutes an ideal blend of both science and art with respect to the complex determination of authenticity and attribution in the field of old masters having recently authored a major publication on exactly that topic. In the last few years, he has become a notable expert on Leonardo’s paintings with specific attention to Mona Lisa and is the author of several works on the subject. His biography appears in the 2016 Marquis Edition of Who’s Who in the World.

Come into the beautiful world of L’Erma di Bretschneider.

 

Clarins continues to move forward with its CSR strategy, becoming an official member of the UEBT

It all began in Paris on March 15, 1954, when Jacques Courtin-Clarins opened his first Clarins Institute with the pioneering belief that well-being and happiness were inextricably linked to beauty – a daring holistic vision that he was the first to express and apply. At the same time, celebrities were beginning to unveil their bodies on the covers of magazines. The era of physical and mental freedom was dawning – a revolution in which Jacques Courtin-Clarins played an important role by telling women, “Yes, you are beautiful!”.

In France, where skin care has always been paramount, his success was immediate. Word soon spread and Clarins products became available worldwide. Today, Clarins continues to design and produce its products in France and remains faithful to its original philosophy – listening to women (and men!) to truly understand their needs, and developing safe, natural and highly effective skin care products.

Starting with it in 1954, Clarins will always choose a natural ingredient over a chemical one, if it delivers the same level of effectiveness. This is the golden rule that all Clarins researchers follow when designing their innovative new products.

The French Maison uses over 250 natural plant extracts in its formulas. All are carefully selected for their effectiveness and are delivered in an optimal formula to reveal the beauty of every woman and man. Each ingredient is sourced with the utmost care for the environment to protect our planet’s biodiversity.

Clarins is committed to respecting nature and protecting biodiversity. They support local communities and purchase their raw materials in accordance with fair trade principles. They respect current and future generations. As a consumer and a global citizen, they hope that you share their commitment to protecting the environment.

On 10th December 2021, Clarins became an official member of Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT). This recognizes our company’s commitment to sourcing that always respects biodiversity and people.

This membership is a step. By accepting us, UEBT recognizes the attention we give to the quality of our sourcing. But above all, it requires us to continually do even more. And luckily we happen to share this goal of continued progress in sourcing that respects people and the planet. There is no approach more coherent with the double promise of Clarins We Care: ‘care for people, care for the planet’.

Virginie Courtin-Clarins, Deputy Managing Director of Clarins Group

Created in 2007, UEBT brings together companies who wish to engage in ethical sourcing of their ingredients of natural origin. Partner of the United Nations Convention for biological diversity, this international NGO promotes best practices and encourages each of its members to do even more in sourcing supplies that respect biodiversity and people. 

Respect of ethical criteria

This initiative of Clarins with UEBT began at the end of 2019. Becoming a member firstly supposes demonstrating that a company like ours respects the ethical criteria of a fair relationship, in particular through the sharing of benefits, a sustainable socio-economic commitment and the preservation of ecosystems.

An action plan to do even more

This required minimum is just a starting point: being a member of UEBT also and above all means being committed to doing even better tomorrow.

To confirm its member status, in 2021 Clarins defined an action plan which will be reviewed every three years. On the agenda are different measures which will ensure continued progress in human and environmental ethics : sustainability and conservation of biodiversity, the fair and equitable sharing of value, the respect of people’s rights and socio-economic sustainability, etc. Our Responsible Sourcing Charter and 2025 commitment to 100% sustainable sourcing are naturally at the heart of our initiative with UEBT.

Always ready to listen, do more and do better. This is the Clarins story.

Come into the beautiful world of Clarins.

Dior presents A.B.C.Dior podcast series, a captivating inside look at the Maison’s codes and icons

French Maison Christian Dior has released a fascinating podcast series called A.B.C.Dior, retracing the destiny of couturier Christian Dior and his Maison from 1947 to the present. In this fun and enchanting primer, each letter of the alphabet introduces a symbol with a wonderful story behind it.

Motivated by a desire to let women rediscover joy, elegance and beauty, French fashion house Dior became synonymous with exquisite fashion and luxury right from its creation in 1947, rapidly growing into a global success.

The audio stories in the A.B.C Dior series explore the life of the couturier, his passions and meetings with charismatic personalities, his childhood in Granville, along with the creative energy and vision of his successors and the exceptional savoir-faire that continues to reinvent the Maison’s timeless codes.

The star, the lily-of-the-valley, the leopard print, Lady Dior, the cannage motif… These symbols of Dior style that have marked the history of fashion are revealed through the Maison’s different universes, from haute couture and perfumes to jewelry. This heritage has been revisited thanks to the creative vision of the Artistic Directors who reinvent it with inimitable Dior audacity, magic and excellence. The podcast episodes are bursting with anecdotes, iconic creations, traditions and  symbols.

The first two episodes of A.B.C.Dior explore the letters M and L: M for muguet, lily-of-the-valley in French, Monsieur Dior’s lucky flower, and L for leopard print an homage to Mizza Bricard, the couturier’s eternal muse.

Don’t miss this captivating journey through time with A.B.C Dior. 

Shiseido, ahead of its time

Shiseido founder Arinobu Fukuhara recognized the importance and contributions of women from the start. When he built the Western-style pharmacy in 1872, his wife Toku was deeply involved in developing the business, herself studying Western Pharmacology, obtaining a pharmacist license and helping commercialize medicines. 149 years later, women comprise 46.2% of Shiseido’s Board of Directors and Corporate Auditors, with 57.5%* female managers shaping the Shiseido Group worldwide.

Come into the beautiful world of Shiseido.

Remember Estée

Cosmetics capitalist Estée Lauder (Josephine Esther Mentzer) died at 95 on this date, 24 april, in 2004. She was born to Hungarian immigrants who ran a hardware store, and she became interested in cosmetics through the work of her uncle, a chemist who developed beauty products and fragrances. In 1953, she introduced her first fragrance, Youth Dew, a bath oil and perfume that sold 50,000 bottles in its first year and 150 million by 1984. She co-founded her eponymous company in 1946 with her husband Joseph Lauder (whom she divorced and then remarried); today it has 42,000 employees and nearly $12 billion in annual net sales.

 

 

 

The Make-Up Man

Max Factor at work (Click photo to enlarge).

Max Factor, one of the famous names in Western cosmetics, was born in Lodz, Poland, in 1877, and began his career as an apprentice to a wig maker. By 20, he was running his own makeup shop.

Polish-born Maksymilian Faktorowicz, had been apprenticed at 9 to a wigmaker and cosmetician and had developed into a well-known theatrical make-up artist. After emigrating to the U.S. 1902. They never returned. He began selling hair goods, imported cosmetics and establishing the Max Factor cosmetics company in time for the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair, developed stage greasepaints for local stage actors in St. Louis.

As his local fame spread, actors from the emerging film industry also came to Max for make-up advice. Thus, the motion picture industry, then beginning in Hollywood, beckoned. He settled in Los Angeles with his family in 1909 and got a job with the Pantages Theatre.
By 1914, he was perfecting make up for the movies. He had improvised a new alternative to dye greasepaint, which he thought looked dreadful and ‘terrifying’ on the screen.
He formed flexible greasepaint, which was the first make up created for film. It helped make actresses look more natural in close up.
In 1918, he developed his ‘colour harmony’ face powder range, which allowed him to create make up for each individual based on their skin tones, due to the wide range of shades on offer.

Max Factor at work (Click photo to enlarge).

Creating false eyelashes, the eyebrow pencil, lip gloss, and pancake make up, Factor created a whole new language for screen cosmetics.
Inevitably, once the actresses had been made to look so stylish on screen, they wanted to maintain the same effect in everyday life, so they wore the new Max Factor ‘make up’ in personal appearances. Soon, women unconnected with the theatre or the film industry were asking for the make up, so that they too could look glamorous.

In 1934 he introduced Liquid Nail Enamel, forerunner of today’s nail enamels, here with Bette Davis for Life Magazine (Click photo to enlarge).

Max Factor ad with Hollywood Star: Ruby Keeler, 1935 (Click photo to enlarge).

In 1920 he developed the “Color Harmony” principles of makeup, which held that ‘certain combinations of a woman’s complexion, hair and eye coloring were most effectively complemented by specific makeup shades’.

By the 1920s, Max’s sons were heavily involved in the business with Davis working as general manager and Frank helping his father to develop new products. They received their biggest single make up order during this decade in 1925 when they had to provide 600 gallons of light olive make up to the film set of ‘Ben Hur’ to ensure that the extras filming in America had the same colour skin as the extras who filmed in Italy.

Max Factor Pan Cake ad with Hollywood Star Merle Oberon in the movie ‘The Love Of Madame Sand’. (Click photo to enlarge).

Max Factor Pan Cake ad with Hollywood Star Judy Garland in the movie ‘Till The Clouds Roll By’, with Lena Horn, Frank Sinatra and Robert Walker, 1946 (Click photo to enlarge).

Another key development in the make up world was the invention of waterproof mascara for the film ‘Mare Nostrum’ in 1926.
It was in 1927 that Max Factor introduced his first cosmetics to be sold to non-theatrical consumers. Before Max Factor, few women used cosmetics. Factor popularised both the word “make up” and the use (and abuse) of the cosmetic repertoire.
Credited as the father of modern make up, Max Factor is responsible for inventing many key cosmetic products (for both on screen and off) and is still the inspiration behind beauty trends and innovations today.

A portrait of American cosmetics executive Max Factor.  (Photo by Hulton, ca 1960).

He died on 30 August 1938 at the age of 59. His son, Frank, who renamed himself Max Factor, Jr., popularized the term ‘make-up’, which had formerly been reserved for theater people, and took his father’s Hollywood business into the broad world, building the Max Factor Cosmetics empire, created, pancake make-up and smear-proof lipstick, built on his father’s innovations. He continued to be involved with the company until the 1970s, seeing the company create make up shades for US Marines during the second world war, offer male products such as shampoo and aftershave and launch its first female fragrance in 1955. Mac Factor jr. died at 91 in Los Angeles on this date in 1996.

Max Factor ad for new lipsticks with Hollywood Star Rita Hayworth who is starring in ‘Down To Earth’, 1947

Max Factor’s most notable clients were Mary Pickford, Claudette Colbert, Jean Harlow, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Gloria Swanson, Rita Hayworth, Judy Garland, Dinah Shore, Lena Horne, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Farrah Fawcett, all of whom became regular visitors at his salons.

In the 1970s, the third generation of Factors rose to senior positions but wanted to focus on their own interests, leading the firm to first be bought by Revlon and then Proctor & Gamble in 1991

t’s been more than 50 years since Marilyn Monroe’s death, but there’s no doubt the famed actress’ signature beauty is still recognized around the globe. So much so that Max Factor has announced Monroe as the new global ambassador for its latest ads, celebrating the makeup label’s 80th anniversary.

The late starlet was a longtime client of founder Max Factor’s son Max Factor Jr. in the ’40s, when she was known as Norma Jeane Mortenson. According to the beauty brand’s post on its Facebook page, Max Factor credits its makeup with helping transform the innocent-looking young lady into the sex symbol she’s known as today (“From Norma Jeane to Marilyn Monroe, Created by Max Factor,” reads the campaign’s tagline).

“Marilyn made the sultry red lip, creamy skin and dramatically lined eyes the most famous beauty look of the Forties and it’s a look that continues to dominate the beauty and fashion industry,” said Pat McGrath, Max Factor’s global creative design director. “It is the ultimate look that defines glamour, nothing else compares.” (Click photo to enlarge).

Given that Max Factor seems to favor past beauty icons (the brand’s former face, Gwyneth Paltrow, channeled Audrey Hepburn and Farrah Fawcett for her campaign), it comes as no surprise that the company would choose the blond bombshell as its new face.

This isn’t the first time that Monroe has been associated with a beauty brand even after her death. The platinum-blonde Hollywood star had a make-up collection dedicated to her by MAC in 2012 and had been the face of Chanel No.5 campaigns in 2013

by Jean Amr

Clinique, the fabulous and incredible story!

A few weeks ago, I told you the fabulous story of Estee Lauder… this month, it is the turn of the fabulous mark dermatological clinic (little sister of Estee Lauder) that revolutionized the beauty industry.

“Can we create a beautiful skin?” This is the famous question of the editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, Carol Phillips, asked in 1967.

Carol Phillips wearing the original Clinique Consultants White Coat with the Skin Computer est in 1968 for Estee Lauder Cosmetics found in fine department stores (Click photo to enlarge).

A question that circumnavigated the world in no time and that revolutionized the world of beauty and cosmetics. An issue that especially gave birth to the very famous brand Clinique! And behind the design and the success of the brand is a true team effort, a trio of experts: the know-how of Dr. Norman Orentreich, the determination of the editor in Chief of Vogue USA Carol Phillips and the expertise of the Estee Lauder group.

The origins of Clinique when the curiosity of a Chief Editor joined the knowledge of a famous dermatologist and arrives at the ears of the determined Madam Estée Lauder, the result can be that fabulous and is proudly named Clinique.

The universe of beauty and cosmetics has always piqued the curiosity of Carol Phillips, it is quite natural that she decided to turn to Dr. Norman Orentreich. He is the pioneer of hair implants, transplantation surgery and the first President of the American society for Dermatologic Surgery. Dermatological Clinique guide, it has always been him and to this day, his two children, David and Catherine, who take the notes as consultants dermatologists for the brand.

It is during an interview granted to journalist, in 1967, the famous doctor revealed its most beautiful secrets. These same secrets that fidélisaient it a rich client (the personalities of the world of politics, fashion and show) including the famous ‘clean, exfoliate, moisturize’, the premise of Basic 3 time, either the winning formula to create and maintain beautiful skin. Following this interview, Carol Phillips devoted a full article on these 3 magic words, seducing everyone in its path, time where women prefer to hide their problems of skin rather than the process, including the large Estee Lauder! consultant dermatologists for the brand. For the record, it is Evelyn Lauder, daughter-in-law of Estee (wife of Leonard Lauder) who first read the article of journalist. She was completely fascinated by the words of Carol Phillips and especially by the advice of Dr. Orentreich. Is the idea to make a mark was imminent? May be Yes, may be not.. .but Evelyn wanted at any price that Estée read the article, because she knew that the latter would be interested.

Indeed, Mrs. Lauder was charmed, but not only… This great lady wanted to create, innovate and revolutionize once more, the universe of beauty (after the success of Youth Dew and Re-Nutriv). Thus, the meeting of Carol Phillips, and Dr. Norman Orentreich for Estée Lauder gave life to a prestigious and dermatological brand both: Clinique! A brand 100% without fragrance, hypoallergenic and performing everything simply.

In regards to the name, some say that Estee Lauder, walking in Paris has noticed the facade of a ‘aesthetic clinique’ and therefore borrowed the word ‘Clinique’. While others argue that it is Evelyn Lauder who had found the name in full agreement with the clinical and dermatological brand image and who was the first to wear the famous iconic white coat of the company, after having been designated Director of Training

Where to start? What exactly? This is what the trio attempted to discover! Between the creativity of Carol Phillips, Dr. Orentreich know-how and expertise of Estée Lauder, there were sufficient resources to launch a novelty in the world of cosmetics. Therefore, under the impetus of the Estee Lauder group and the professionalism of the three personalities that the clinic brand emerged in 1968. Everything went very quickly and in August of the same year, the brand unveiled its credo: be and remain true, inform, serve and satisfy.

And to determine the type of skin, the brand dermatologists and researchers have proudly designed the computer of beauty, a precision tool, this only in the premises of the brand. At the time of the consultation, each person-specific criteria are entered. The generated results are based on the genetic and specific criteria. For example, a blonde with blue eyes will be a priori, a more delicate skin than a brunette with dark eyes. In the same context, there are factors such as fatigue, seasons, climate, or medical treatments. Clinic has understood, tailor-made is the winning formula:

In the custom addition concepts of prevention and protection. What does it mean? Simply that each product is tested for allergies and guarantees a 100% fragrance-free formula. Each formula is tested at least 12 times on 600 people, what makes 7200 applications. And any allergic or negative reaction, the formula is returned to the laboratory. One goal: create beautiful skins with proper dermatological care.

The recipe for beautiful skin, here it is! Thanks to the advice of Dr.Orentreich, the Estée Lauder company has succeeded in creating the perfect care: Basic of 3 products: a soap, for a perfect cleaning, a clarifying lotion based on salicylic acid to exfoliate the skin, and finally a moisturizer. Since his arrival on the market, in 1968, this shock trio that meets the Dermatologic formula ‘clean, exfoliate, moisturize’ did not fail to seduce.

Clinique would not have been possible without sons Lauder, Leonard and Ronald. Indeed, just before the creation of the brand, Estée turned to her eldest son, Leonard, to talk to him about his idea to develop hypoallergenic care. Together they collaborated, analysed the beauty market and decided that it was time to offer women the proper care to finally have beautiful skin.

Clinique 3-Steps (Click photo to enlarge).

At the time, President of the brand was Carol Phillips, and in eight months only, the journalist managed to establish a process to ensure that the new brand is spawning a niche in the market. The youngest of Estée, Ronald Lauder was Vice President of the company.

Yet, the startup was not relaxing. Although it aroused the curiosity of others, Clinique failed to meet a great success at its launch. Millions of dollars injected into the company  In 1975, the brand denounced a consequent loss of at least $ 3 million. The reasons behind this? People did not yet know the benefits of hypoallergenic products and preferred to conceal rather than to treat. But Carol Phillips, Leonard Lauder and Ronald Lauder believed that Clinicque would become quickly one of the leaders in the world of cosmetics and beauty. It was enough just to help them discover the brand and the benefits of using products without fragrances, hypoallergenic and suitable for their skin.

Three years after this big loss of funds, clinic was able to earn $ 80 million, almost 30% of the revenues of the Estee Lauder company. Great news for the brand which attracted the attention of journalists, more specifically those of the Forbes magazine “the Lauder family will never lowered arms. Instead, they drew the best of these losses and took advantage of it to feed the business”. Like what, with patience and determination, there is always the potential to operate and as stated so well in English, “there’s always room for improvement!”.

Clinique Acne Solutions (Click photo to enlarge).

You have probably noticed that there is never a ‘Muse’ (a -famous- face) at Clinique. The company is based on a credo simple and direct: “the product is the hero!” and has always adopted a ‘different’ marketing…

Between dermatological care, cosmetics and perfumes, clinic will conquered quickly the U.S, French and the British. The make-up, and in particular the fonds de teints, are positioned at the top of the standings with at least 200 colors, 12 fluid forms, 7 presentations 3 textures creams and powders. All, of course, carved on the precision and own clinic dermatological expertise. We remember also that it is the first brand to evoke a mens line, UV filters and antioxidants.

Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ Breast Cancer Awareness Pink Ribbon.2015 edition (Click photo to enlarge)

In support of Breast Cancer Awareness, each year Clinique offers a special, limited-edition bottle of its Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+. The limited-edition version of Clinique’s Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ is adorned with a Clinique key ring with four charms including a Breast Cancer Awareness Pink Ribbon.

Flying through the time:

1968: Seeing daylight: Clinique, under the direction of the Estee Lauder group, the inspiration of journalist Carol Phillips and the expertise of Dr. Norman Orentreich

1969: Clinic focuses more closely to the international market and expands in France and the United Kingdom, with only the famous 3 time Basic product/kit. Today, Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion, the third step, is still the company’s top selling moisturiser.

1970: The first Foundation, called Continuous Coverage happens. Concealing defects and a sunscreen, this ‘2 in 1’ continues, even today!

1971: Clinique lifts the veil on her first perfume, Aromatics Elixir, a floral oriental crossing modes

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Luxe for Women Parfum Extract Reserve Edition Prestige 40th Anniversary (Click photo to enlarge). 

1976: Care for men finally arrive! Called ‘Skin Supplies For Men’, this line consists of lotions, scrubs, creams… in short. All that it takes for the modern male. Note that it is the first cosmetic range specifically developed for men!

Clinique for Men (Click photo to enlarge).

1978: The company is addressing to the international market. This year underlines its arrival in the Japan, South Africa and the Venezuela

1991: The 1990s were very enriching for the brand. The first Sun care, City Block SPF15, made its appearance. Finally a screen light and especially without chemical filter for everyday use!

Two products from the Clinique Sun Care range. Clinique SPF 30 Face and Body Cream (CLick phot to enlarge).

1991: After a flawless Sun care, clinic decided to test these products in a different way. It was aboard the U.S. shuttle that the mark was conducting tests in weightlessness

1992: Clinique puts the competitive bar even higher, by proposing the first care with salicylic acid, called Turnaround. Regenerated and radiant skin with the first applications, a true revolution in the world of beauty!

2006: When the cosmetic brand joined the dermatological research, the result is quite impressive, where the arrival of the Clinique Skin Wellness Center at Weill Cornell Science in the United States

2007: Clinic innovates once again and offers training in 3 steps, called the “Accredited Program”. It is aimed at advisers and customers who wish to enhance their knowledge

2008: Clinic tackles skin problems. Four launches so that each type of skin can benefit from proper care: Even Better, Anti Blemish, Pore Refining Solutions and Redness Solution

2011: Clinique wins the ‘Prize of the Excellence of Beauty’ offered by Marie-Claire

2013: The brand combines price and takes advantage of Elle International Beauty Awards

2014: The Skin Supplies For Men range Gets a makeover and becomes clinical for Men.

by Jean Amr

 

Countess Mona von Bismarck and Cristobal Balenciaga

Countess Mona von Bismarck, the queen of the international cafe society according to Vogue. Cecil Beaton described her as a ‘rock-crystal goddess’. Coco Chanel voted her to be the best dressed woman in the world and Cristobal Balenciaga was her close friend and favourite designer. The fashion conscious Countess Mona von Bismarck developed a vèry close relationship with the world renowned designer Cristobal Balenciaga and lasted for almost 30 years. It is reported that on one occasion when most of her clothes were destroyed in a railroad accident she ordered over 150 dresses from the couturier in one setting.

Countess Mona von Bismarck wearing Cristobal Balenciaga (Photo by Cecil Beaton)(Click photo to enlarge).

Countess Mona von Bismarck wearing Cristobal Balenciaga (Photo by Cecil Beaton)(Click photo to enlarge).

In May 1968, during the manifestations and general strike in Paris, when Balenciaga retired, as an act of mouring, Countess Mona von Bismarck shut herself behind closed doors sipping champagne for three days. Finis Mundi.

by Jean Amr

A piece of History: Perfume Houses, Annick Goutal

Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien (Click photo to enlarge).

Music and fragrance speak the same language: they’re composed of notes, harmonies – and the finished ‘juice’ we take such pleasure in is known as a ‘composition’. So it’s not so surprising that Annick Goutal, who dedicated her early life to playing the piano, with the dream of being a pianist, should turn, instead, to creating perfumes (which today are loved around the world).

Annick Goutal was born in Aix-en-Provence, the third daughter of a family of eight children, with a father who was a confectioner; as a child, she liked nothing better than tying up chocolates and small packets of sweets with beautiful ribbons – when she wasn’t practising piano. At the age of 16, she won first prize for piano at the prestigious Versailles Conservatory – but not long after, abandoned her pianist dream when the pressure became too much. She moved to London and found work as an au pair, where her classic beauty and slender silhouette was ‘spotted’ by legendary photographer David Bailey. And who better to launch someone on their modelling career…?

Madame Camille Goutal and long time collaborator, master perfumer Isabelle Doyen were on hand to celebrate the new Annick Goutal Boutique 955 Madison Avenue opening (Click photo to enlarge).

Always intellectual, always questioning, Annick had doubts about her new career: how could she accept earning a living so effortlessly? She moved back to Paris, opened an antique shop (Folavril, after a character in a Boris Vian novel). She had her first daughter, Camille. The door of the antique shop closed, another opened: Annick began helping a friend launch a beauty store selling plant-based creams. An echo of her childhood, Annick Goutal set about designing confectionery-style packaging, tied with elegant ribbon bows.

The beauty products needed a fragrance – so Annick headed to Grasse, still the heartland of perfumery today. And it was meeting with a perfumer, Henri Sorsana from fragrance house Robertet, which opened Annick Goutal’s eyes, and more importantly her nose, to what became her true vocation. Before very long, Annick gave up modelling, and instead became a perfumer, showing exceptional talent. She spent four years training, rediscovering the musical language she’d left behind, translated to the world of olfaction.

Annick Goutal shop counter (Click photo to enlarge).

By chance, at a dinner, Annick had rediscovered her teenage love, Alain Meunier (who she’d met 20 years before at the music conservatory), who was now a famous cellist. She liked nothing better than to listen to Alain practising for a concert, while she played on her own ‘organ’: the array of precious oils and fragrance elements used to compose perfumes.

In 1981, Annick Goutal created her first signature perfume, Folavrl, with its touches of tomato leaf. It was soon followed by L’Eau d’Hadrien, still worn and loved all over the world by men and women for its timeless, citrus-powered freshness. Her gift: to capture the memories of people she loved, landscapes, and moments which touched her life. Perfume-lovers picked up on that, and she joined the ranks of French ‘haute parfumerie’.

Annick Goutal, Eau d’Hadrien. A universal perfume inspired by a Tuscany landscape, Eau d’Hadrien is the expression of Annick Goutal’s deep passion for Italy, named after Roman Emperer Hadrian, who was a great lover of arts and ‘everything’ beautiful (Click photo to enlarge).

In 1986, Annick was joined along the way by equally gifted ‘nose’. And the reputation of Annick Goutal spread around the world; by the 1990s, the collection was in the ‘top five’ in leading department stores like Saks and Nieman Marcus, fuelled by the popularity of fragrances like the exquisite floral bouquet of Gardénia Passion, blowsily delectable Rose Absolue, and breezy Eau du Sud. Each new fragrance embodied the French ‘art de vivre’, or way of being: that seductive mix of simplicity and extreme sophistication, so admired around the world.

Annick Goutal, Eau du Sud. The recollection of a summer evening in Provence, where the daylight seems to be never ending (Click photo to enlarge).

Unbelievably sadly, Annick Goutal died in 1999, at the age of just 53, after a long battle with cancer. Fragrances, of course, are a kind of immortality, but more than that, Annick Goutal passed on her love of rich, complex fragrances to her talented daughter and ‘muse’ Camille. (Camille was the inspiration for both Eau de Camille, and Petite Chérie, a fragrance composed for young women.)

Camille studied Literature at ‘A’ Level, then took courses in art, photography and design at the Louvre Museum School. It led to a career in photography. But scent beckoned. She’d grown up surrounded by it, at the family’s homes in Paris and on the Ile de Ré, whose salt-tanged breezes inspired Annick Goutal Les Sables.

Her mother’s legacy was hugely important to her. And in 1999, Camille took her first steps as ‘Aromatique Majeur’ for her mother’s perfume house. So the baton was passed, and today, there’s a fresh duet at Annick Goutal: Camille Goutal, composing beside Isabelle Doyen, and it’s among the few houses in the world to have its own in-house perfumers.

Annick Goutal, Ninfeo Mio. The rendition of a wonder-filled stroll through an Italian garden crossed by the Ninfeo river (Click photo to enlarge).

This isn’t someone simply to follow in her mother’s footsteps, though: the innately stylish Camille’s definitely imprinted her own signature at Annick Goutal. As she told The Perfume Society’s Jo Fairley, ‘Unlike my mother, who created Eau de Camille and Eau de Charlotte for me and my sister, I tend not to make my fragrances too ‘personal’, or based on people and places that are sentimental to me. Un Matin d’Orage, for instance, was inspired by a stormy morning on a business trip to Tokyo…’

Other creations have included Les Nuits d’Hadrien (a more sensual version of her mother’s iconic Cologne), bewitchingly exotic Mandragore, and cool, green Ninfeo Mio, inspired by the legendary gardens of Ninfa, just outside Rome (let’s talk about this fragrances later).

Annick Goutal, Les Nuits d’Hadrien. The illustration of a Tuscan lanscape at dusk, set ablaze by a late afternoon sun (Click photo to enlarge).

Importantly, Camille and Isabelle continue to enjoy complete creative freedom – able to put together notes and harmonies unfettered by ‘marketing briefs’. Annick Goutal would herself surely be so proud of each and every beautiful new composition.

Like she is saying: “We like to think of them as music, for the nose…”

More info at http://www.annickgoutal.com/en/

by Jean Amr

Perfume Houses: Téo Cabanel

Theodore Cabanel

Théodore Cabanel created the brand in 1893 and he was not a perfumer, he was a doctor. But he was growing orange trees in Nigeria and because he was in the business of raw materials, he decided to make perfumes. He discovered that he was gifted in making them and created around 200 formulas in less than 30 years. Théodore Cabanel creates prestigious Colognes and Quintessences for “extraits de mouchoirs”. An elegant crowd rapidly adopts the Cabanel fragrances.

His daughter chooses to follow in her father’s footsteps in the true tradition of “Maître Parfumeur”. She rapidly becomes the Duchess of Windsor’s favorite perfumer.

‘Julie’ was inspired by a very old formula, it was the perfume worn by the Duchess of Windsor. She was Téo Cabanel’s main client between the 1930s and the 1960s

(Click photo to enlarge).

Caroline Ilacqua steps into the picture in 2003. Only 22 years old at the time, she boldly takes up the torch and expressing her own sensitivity gives a zip to the timeless fragrances. Working hand in hand with Jean-François Latty, one of the best in the profession, she opens a new chapter in this great adventure. Together, they take their inspiration from the more than 150 emblematic Cabanel perfume formulas. They venture to play the score with their own modern interpretation. Some formulas are very ‘old-fashioned’, using some ingredients that are not allowed anymore … ‘Even if we wanted, we would not be able to make it again. But some are still good and we just have to work a bit on them’.

Alamhine, Oha, Early Roses, Julia, Méloé, Hegoa

(Click photo to enlarge)

Today, it may be said that Teo Cabanel has re-invented exceptional perfumes which combine natural elegance and richness, the authentic sign of High French Perfumery. As the creator of rare refined fragrances, Teo Cabanel brings the utmost care to each and every one of its perfume creations. You cannot fail to recognize them for the quality of their fragrances and their unique design. We make no compromise on the quality. Only the purest, most natural and noble ingredients will do.

Caroline Ilacqua (Click photo to enlarge).

Chairman of the Board, Teo Cabanel brand’ owner. Born in Fontainebleau (France) in 1981 Caroline Ilacqua inherits the Téo Cabanel company when she is barely 22. Upon graduating in International Business in Paris and Dublin, she started working in the field of advertising with Ogilvy & Mather. A few months later, her godmother, the daughter of Théodore Cabanel, names her sole heir of the Téo Cabanel brand. She was suddenly owner of not only an old perfume house full of stories but also a precious book with ancient fragrance formulas, and she decides to highlight this valuable heritage. Taking root in this formidable past, she launches forward with her fervent creativity and dedication to quality. She creates around Teo Cabanel a whole olfactory universe dominated by pure, natural and precious ingredients. The brand was brought back to life and is now more active than ever

Jean-François Latty

After graduating from the Roure Perfume Institute in Grasse, Jean-François Latty starts to work for Roure in Paris creating his first fragrances. In 1970, he joins Roure USA and after a year is hired by International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF). In 1987, Takasago asks him to join the company and he sets off numerous successful fragrances. In 2000, he created JFL Creations a company specialized in perfume creation and in selling natural ingredients.

Immediately attracted by the Téo Cabanel heritage, Jean-François Latty asked by Caroline Ilacqua  to become Téo Cabanel’s official perfumer. Quality doesn’t mix with compromise! Such is Latty’s motto and philosophy for all his creations. Thus, his fragrances don’t derive from marketing trends and passing fashion.

More on Teo Cabanel’s scent’s soon, here at Yakymour.

for more information:

http://www.teo-cabanel.com/en/parfums

by Jean Amr