From Paris with Love, Cartier 154 Champs-Élysées

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Since 1899, Cartier’s iconic address has been 13 Rue de la Paix, a few steps away from the world famous and prestigious Place Vendôme. This year however, reflecting its position as the world number 1 jeweller, the venerable Maison is starting a series of large-scale openings and reno­vations, starting with the re-opening of 154 Champs-Élysées, its other Paris regal address.

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First opened 10 years ago, the renowned 154 Champs-Élysées address recently went through a major transformation by Parisian interior designer Bruno Moinard who revised it in its entirety during 8 months.

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Bruno Moinard is the mastermind behind the ‘Moinard concept’, which has been applied to all the 340 Cartier boutiques in the world for about 20 years.

At 154 Champs-Élysées, a private townhouse built during the Second Empire, two floors, spanning 650 square meters, are divided into private lounges, a portrait gallery, and the­med spaces dedicated to diamonds, men, jewelry and accessories.

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The subtle luxury of the chosen details, the measured extravagance, and the ultimate comfort  created by Bruno Moinard all reflect the high standards of refinement that a Cartier boutique obviously demands.

The remarkable and monumental entrance on the most beautiful avenue in the world, for instance: eight metres high, it is surrounded on either side by three curved balconies and windows over seven metres high, framing two impressive chandeliers which are almost five metros wide, made by French glasswork artist Régis Mathieu.

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I also had a crush on the staircase, designed as a spiral, with a bronze bannister along walls shimmering with natural pigments, hand-coated by the workshop of French artisan Pierre Bonnefille.

CARTIER SANTOS DUMONT

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Of course, Bruno Moinard made sure the entire space is treated with the same attention to details, literally from floor to ceiling: the floor alternates Versailles parquet and Istrian stone floo­ring set with tone on tone cabochons, surrounded by a golden border. The vast and regal space is modernised by smooth grey oak walls with bronze patina, and large panels of glass and golden threaded tulle. An amazing place to replace the strap on my Cartier Santos Dumont watch….

 

Cartier Gold Table Clock

Cartier Art Deco Table Clock Yellow Gold

Cartier Art Deco Yellow Gold Table Clock (Click photo to enlarge).

I lòve watches, and I lòve clocks… those litte tiny French desk or table clocks. Regular visitors of Yakymour see them sometimes as background decoration in different posts. This Cartier Art Deco clock is made of 18k solid yellow gold, with a luminous dial for reading any time. The hands look to have been retouched, but the package includes the original fitted leather presentation box or foudral. The 5 day movement inside was made by Lemania, who was making mechanical movements for a lot of top watchmakers at the time.

by Jean Amr

The Jean Patou experience

Create the perfect legacy with Jean Patou. From its historical home in Rue Saint-Florentin, Paris, the house of Jean Patou returns to creation of bespoke perfume, following an offering of the combined expertise of high-perfume and haute couture.

Just like designer Jean Patou, the approach of the house today discovers the secret tastes of the exceptional customer to embed his or her passions in an unique and personal fragrance.

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Jean Patou ‘Bespoke Parfum’ (Click photo to enlarge).

The production of a haute couture fragrance is a work of art, an object of desire, a distincitve monogram, designed with the most precious natural essences, those whose names remind us of a beautiful poem. May Rose, Jasmine from Grasse, Mimosa, Champaca, Iris of Florence, Chinese Osmanthus, Sandalwood Mysore …. A painting of life whose palette carries the colors of ones passion giving the ultimate olfactory reflection of oneself.

When ordering the Bespoke Experience, the client will receive their fragrance in a 100ml Jean Patou octagonal bottle made by Baccarat, designed by Louis Sue and personalized with the name or initials of choice. The gift box will be beautifully presented made by one of three possible baggage specialists: Pinel & Pinel, Elie Bleu or Norline. Marcel Franck will accompany the fragrance with two magnificent purse atomizers.

Developed over an approximate period of one year and a minimum number of three consultations. The process starts with a meeting face to face with the in house perfumer Thomas Fontaine in which the client expresses their tastes and shares olfactive memories which merge with the imagination of the ‘nose’.   Always at the clients disposal, the perfumer then creates proposals by sending samples and adjusting with feedback until the client is happy with his or her formula. After six months of testing and maceration, 5 litres of perfume will be stored safely for refills. Creating a fragrance with Jean Patou is a unique opportunity to become part of the rich heritage of our private perfume archives dating back nearly 100 years, started by our founder Jean Patou. This also means that the record is protected for the client and their future generations to re-order.

To make an appointment for this truly unique experience exclusively at:

Jean Patou Laboratory

9, rue Saint Florentin, Paris.

by Jean Amr

From Paris with Love Van Cleef & Arpels bumblebee

Van Cleef Arpels Gold Platinum Sapphire Bee brooch Yakymour

From Paris with Love: Van Cleef & Arpels ‘mystery setting’ bumblebee brooch 

(Click photo to enlarge)

Mystery setting, also known as invisible setting, was originally created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. An amazing technique crafted only by a skillful hand of paving precious stones without any visible claws, the gems themselves take the ‘center stage’ in the creation.

This superb quality bumblebee brooch, 25mm (1″) long x 40mm (1 9/16″) wide at wing spread that does not fall short of Van Cleef and Arpels quality set in the body and head with forty-nine natural blue sapphires with a total weight of 8.50ct. Gorgeous spread wings paved with the total of twenty-eight round brilliant diamonds totaling 1.10ct. The bumblebee is further enhanced with two cabochon ruby eyes, totaling 0.12ct. A precious masterpiece!

Van Cleef Arpels Gold Platinum Sapphire Ruby Bee Mystery Set brooch Yakymour

Van Cleef Arpels Gold Platinum Sapphire Ruby Bee Mystery Set brooch Yakymour

Van Cleef & Arpels ‘mystery setting’ bumblebee brooch made of 18k yellow gold, platinum, Sapphires, diamonds and rubies 

(Click photos to enlarge)

  • Sapphires, 49 square shaped in mystery setting, totaling 8.50ct, dark blue color
  • Diamonds, 28 round brilliant diamonds, totaling 1.10ct, color: F-G, clarity: VS range
  • Rubies 2 cabochon rubies, totaling 0.12ct

The 1″ (25mm) long x 1 9/16″ (40mm) wide at wing spread brooch gross weight is 11.6 grams.

by Jean Amr

From Paris With Love: Lampe Berger

As long as can remember, there was a Lampe Berger in several rooms at Yakymour, and, as a child I was always facinated by them. Not only because of the scent it spread, but also how it worked….

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Cartier Art Deco Basculante Clock, Cartier Art Deco Triptique Clock and Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge)

Begum Om Habibeh had several different scents she could use for her Lampe Berger , depending on mood or occasion. I grew up with them, my grandmother had one, my mother, and me, myself and I…. and still facinated, and enjoying it a lot!

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Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge).

I can tell you how wonderfull it is, but first: what is it? A Lampe Berger is a fragrance lamp, also known as a ‘perfume lamp’, ‘catalytic lamp’ or  ‘effusion lamp’. The lamp disperses scented oil, using a heated stone attached to a cotton wick. The catalystic combusion wick was originally developed in the 19th century for use in hospitals and mortuaries. A Frenchman named Maurice Berger was the first to receive a patent (in 1897!), and the company he founded, Lampe Berger, is the oldest worldwide manufacturer of the device though there are a growing number of companies making such lamps. For myself: I go for the original!

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Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge)

The lamps are sold on the premise that molecules that cause bad smells are inherently unstable and the fragrance lamp’s flame-less, low-temperature catalytic combustion speeds up the decomposition process, converting odor molecules into harmless substances (such as carbon dioxide and water). While the lamps are no longer considered effective for use in hospitals, they have remained popular as air fresheners.

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Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge).

The fragrance lamp’s process is initiated by lighting the stone burner seated at the mouth of the lamp. After a few minutes the flame is extinguished by blowing it out. But; the heated burner remains active as the flame-less, low-temperature catalytic combustion process; and diffuses the aromatics throughout the room. The lamp does not operate with an open flame, making it much safer to operate than scented candles. Its lower operating temperature also means that, unlike scented candles, the aromatics are diffused very efficiently into the ambient air without being burned. One of the by-products of these fragrance lamps is low-level ozone, which has been attributed to the “purification process” of the lamps in eliminating odor.

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Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge).

At Yakymour there where a few Baccarat crystal Lampe Berger’s, and my mother owned a Limoges porcelain one. Even today the ‘bottles’ are availble in countles kind of shapes, styles, colors, materials and price ranges. From classic, to ultra-modern, from around 39€ to 1500€ and everything in between. Every year Lampe Berger invites a designer or crystal house to design a limited edition for them. So… something for anyone..

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Lampe Berger Bacarrat (Privat collection)(Click photo to enlarge)

Notice:

The lamp fuel contains 90% isopropyl alcohol and should be regarded as a highly flammable liquid. Furthermore, to start the catalytic wick according to the instruction it is necessary to light the catalytic burner with a flame and let it burn for approximately two minutes until it reaches the correct operating temperature. At this point the flame should be extinguished in order for the oil to be diffused.

Some point sound logic maybe, but still: precautions should be taken to avoid any possible hazards:

  • Make sure the fuel container is in perfect condition, perfectly tight and not leaking.
  • When not in use, make sure the airtight cap is on at all times to prevent evaporation (alcohol vapour/air mixture is highly flammable!).
  • Do not leave unattended during operation.
  • Do not use in an unventilated room.
  • Do not inhale, ingest, or use the lamp fuel in any other manner.
  • Use only original Lampe Berger fuel, not fake ones!!
  • Take extreme caution while refilling the fragrance lamp. Make sure there is ventilation, and that there is no open flame.
  • In case of any spillage, wipe the area carefully before lighting the lamp.
  • Do not fill lamps on wooden furniture or use a lamp without a dish underneath it. The fuel will damage furniture.

Soon more about Lampe Berger, and its scents, here on Yakymour.

by Jean Amr

From Paris with Love: Boucheron

Visiting Begum Om Habibeh at Yakymour one day, she had a nice present for my mother. Because my mother had a few special occasions in that time, some parties and a wedding, Om Habibeh gave her this great purse, including it’s original sterling silver, 18k and ruby Vanity Case. All handmade by the famous French jeweller Boucheron..

In the 1930’s, jewellers such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Boucheron, Mauboussin and  Tiffany & Co, began producing minaudières,  silver, gold or platinum evening bags or vanity cases, carried on a metal or silk cord that contained a compact powder plus space for a few other small items, like lipstick. Many were inlaid with jewels or personalised, or made by order.

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Handbag/Vanity Case by Boucheron, Paris, owned by Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (private collection) (Click photo for larger size)

Boucheron Vanity

Vanity Case by Boucheron, Paris, owned by Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (private collection) (Click photo for larger size)

Boucheron Vanity

Vanity Case by Boucheron, Paris, owned by Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (private collection) (Click photo for larger size)

Boucheron Vanity

Handbag/Vanity Case by Boucheron, Paris, owned by Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (private collection) (Click photo for larger size)

Because it’s a pitty to keep it in the dark, sometimes I put it out of it’s box, at very special moments. For a friend of mine, when she has a special occasion and needs to shine…… Always handy to have a friend with accessories!

by Jean Amr

Celebrating 80 Years of Caron Pour Un Homme

 

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Before 1934, there wasn’t a fragrance made exclusively for men. If men wanted to smell nice when they went out, they would wear fresh lavender water.

Eighty years ago, The House of Caron released Pour Un Homme, a discrete, unique and unmistakable fragrance made from lavender extract, created by Ernest Daltroff. Worn by all men alike, from James Dean to Tom Ford and of course not forgetting Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent Paris’s Creative Director, the simple elegance of lavender is full of poise and refinement.

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A beautiful aromatic fragrance that is not to complicated. The finest lavender oils from the Alps are blended to create this unmistakable fragrance, slightly warmed with hints of vanilla and amber; it really is intoxicating.

Top Notes: Lavender
Heart Notes: Lavender, Vanilla
Base Notes: Amber, Musk

To celebrate Pour Un Homme’s 80th anniversary, The House of Caron have created a Limited Edition Collector’s Box. Each bottle is set in deeply engraved silver and topped with a stopper covered in pearl grey shagreen. Each comes with a certificate of authenticity, and all are numbered and signed; this really is for the most discerning of fragrance connoisseurs.

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The Limited Edition Collector’s Box, priced at £1,000

Although this fragrance is an original men’s fragrance, it’s nowadays not exclusivly for men anymore. Its stolen by many women. Created from the finest lavender and having been on the shelves for 80 years, It’s still a beautiful timeless fragrance. Classic and (still) modern at the same time.  But this is perhaps not something that will appeal to everyone, or that everyone will be able to pull off. Even so, it could be worth stepping out of your comfort zone this once just to give it a try, this beautiful heritage…

Come into the world of The House of Caron

 

 

 

 

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Blooming Spring Creations

Until now in gold and sparkling diamonds, the Cosmos collection inspired by one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature flowers henceforth offers two new combinations: iridescent mother-of-pearl dialoguing with soft pink gold, or a sober, luminous pairing of onyx and white gold. The delicate heart-shaped corollas, a pretty metaphor for the four-leafed clover, look sublime on décolleté, wrist, ears or fingers. Our favourite is the between-the-fingers ring, a wonderful illustration of the French Maison’s creativity.

Van Cleef & Arpels jeweléry is available at Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques worldwide. Come into the beautiful world of Van Cleef & Arpels,