Shiseido signed for purchasing Serge Lutens trademark

Born in 1942 in Lille, France. In 1968, Serge Lutens was invited by Christian Dior to work as an art director for makeup product development, a position he then held for over 12 years. In 1980, he signed on with Shiseido for an image development project conducted in line with the Company’s full-scale launch of its European business and continued the collaboration over the next 20 years as Shiseido’s global image and visual identity.

serge-lutens-bench-1Serge Lutens

Shiseido’s partnership with Mr. Serge Lutens, acknowledged by the high-fashion and cosmetics industry for his unique visual creations, started in 1980. It was largely thanks to this collaboration that the Company was able to successfully break into European markets and accelerated its globalization.
In 2000, confident of his own experience in perfumery and supported by the Shiseido group, Serge Lutens decided to create his own brand: Parfums Beauté Serge Lutens, later renamed as ‘Serge Lutens’.

Shiseido signed for purchasing the trademark of Serge Lutens, a name synonymous with luxury fragrances and cosmetics. This brand was created in collaboration with Mr. Serge Lutens and Shiseido has been in the process of negotiation since March 2015.

The purchase of the trademark rights will enable Shiseido to invest more in the brand such as opening up directly managed boutiques in major cities worldwide, and gradually increase points of contact while keeping its prestigious image. As of 2015, the brand has expanded to around 2000 outlets in 35 countries.

 

Serge-Lutens-palais-royal-exclusice-aedes-perfume_e1fcce64-6a0e-471a-af1c-7856663ae336_1024x1024

Mr. Lutens will keep directing the brand to transmit the spirit and the style.
In order to continue to promote the Serge Lutens brand in the future, Shiseido has concluded that it would be the best way to purchase the brand while maintaining its concept, ‘Rare and Lux’.

Jean Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose

Jean-Claude Ellena @ Richard Schroeder

Jean-Claude Ellena is believing that composing a scent is an art form that requires all 5 senses (Click photo to enlarge).

Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive business. After all, if you create a truly unique and successful scent, the whole world wants to copy it. So, what is the day to day life like for a nose? How is a new scent actually created? And how do you translate it into a perfume that smells nice on your skin? This book takes you on a journey in the life of one of the world’s most important perfumers Jean Claude Ellena, mastermind of many Hermès fragrances.

Jean Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose

Jean Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose’ (picture by Rebecca, La Touch de Beauté) (Click photo to enlarge)

The French bestseller The Diary of a Nose is the story behind the creation of a perfume, from the head perfumer at Hermès. Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive endeavour. What is day to day life like for a perfume maker? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a smell on the skin?

For one year, Jean-Claude Ellena kept a diary of his life as ‘parfumeur exclusif’ (‘le nez’ or ‘the nose’) for Hermès, and the result is this fascinating book in which he offers the reader a rare glimpse into the secrets of the perfume business and with it a peek into his mind and life. Believing that creating a scent is like creating a work of art, and describing himself as a writer using ‘olfactory colours’, he explains how all of the five senses come into play when creating a perfume. He also reveals how inspiration can come from a market stall, a landscape, or even the movement of calligraphy, and concludes this charming, perceptive diary with recipes for natural fragrances, each made up of three synthetic ingredients, to create the illusion of smells like freesia, orange blossom, grapefruit, pear, chocolate, cashew and cotton candy. This is the story of a quest to capture what is most elusive. Jean-Claude Ellena offer readers a rare insight into the secrets of his business, his art, and his life as one of the world’s most important and admired perfumers.

The book is not new, it came out in French five years ago. The English translation of the American edition 3 years. Hermès perfumes are timeless, like this book is timeless. A great present for those who love perfumes, their secrets, and everything around it….

Even if you don’t like the Hermès perfumes. You have to admit: The man is a magician, a nose, a parfumuer … His journal reveals in simple words a real secret: the creation of perfumes. Day by day, every emotion, every encounter, every precious moment is preserved. Here, everything is customary but nothing is ordinary, for this is where the magic happens. More than a chemist or composer, I’d call Ellena a poet.

Particular Books (August 28, 2012)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1846145597
ISBN-13:  978-1846145599

by Jean Amr

The Noses: Elie Roger and Estee Lauder ‘Knowing’

For many years in her life, my sister used Estée Lauder’s White Linen, created by the legendary Sophia Grojsman for Estée Lauder in 1978, and: Knowing

But who was the perfumer behind Estée Lauder’s Knowing, a chypre of roses tangled up with dark moss? For many years, Lauder, like many other companies, didn’t put the perfumers into the limelight, and this is why Elie Roger’s name is not often linked with Knowing if you search for the information online. Roger worked for the fragrance house of Firmenich, and he signed both Knowing (1988) and Clinique Wrappings (1990). While his portfolio wasn’t as extensive as that of some other perfumers, he had a distinctive style, and both Knowing and Wrappings remain beloved classics.

Estee Lauder Knowing Paulina Porizkova ad, 1994

Estee Lauder ‘Knowing’ ad, with model Paulina Porizkova, 1994 (Click photo to enlarge)

Estee Lauder Knowing EDP Spray

Estee Lauder ‘Knowing’ Eau de Parfum in it’s legendary beautiful bottle (Click photo to enlarge)

A real beautiful creation. The top notes begin with the floral freshness of mimoza, pittosporum, sweet rose and tuberose, combined with sparkling fruty notes of plum and melon. There are floral notes mingling with a sweet woodsy note of patchouli and iris and spicy clove and laurel. The chypre base includes precious woods (sandalwood), vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss and civet. Knowing is a warm and elegant woodsy scent for a sophisticated and self-confident woman.

Elie Roger passed away on Nov. 19, 2010, five years ago, after a long career, which started in 1946 in Grasse, France, his hometown. He worked for 20 years at Firmenich, both in New York and Paris, and he received the American Society of Perfumers’ Lifetime Achievement Award in 2001. Since he crafted two American classics as well as some other interesting fragrances, it’s well-deserved recognition.

by Jean Amr

The Nose: Pascal Gaurin

Pascal Gaurin Nose

Pascal Gaurin was born circa 1970 in France. This French Perfumer works for IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) as Senior Perfumer for the Fine Fragrances division (Click photo to enlarge).

Pascal had no objective reasons to become a perfumer, but chose it thanks to his gift. His fascination with scents was so great that as a child, he literally explored the world with his nose, causing his mother to wonder if he was afraid of being poisoned.

Pascal studied and graduated at ISIPCA in Versailles and a year after that he began to work in IFF, first in Hong Kong, where he enriched not only his olfactory palette, but also gained a deep understanding of the art, customs and olfactory preferences of people in Asia. Then, in 1997, Pascal was offered the chance to work in IFF, New York, the city of his dreams. The city where everything happens, and where all smells come together.

Most inspired by very dense essences, Pascal Gaurin is fond of resins, deep woods and anything that can express extreme sensuality. His taste for darkness probably originates from his grandparents’ home in Creuse, France. ‘The forests are very dark there, it always feels like it’s night time, you can feel the vapors of humus, mushrooms, leaves and bark. . . I love frontal materials, those you need to tame like sculptor does stone, by keeping the volume but making it flow’. This is where he gets his affinity for cistus, patchouli, Cashmeran and vanilla, ingredients he qualifies as erotic.”

IFF

Other passions of Pascal, which help him in his work, are music and film. The palette of fragrances created by Pascal Gaurin is wide indeed:

  • 2000 Givenchy ‘Oblique Play’ (with Jean-Claude Delville)
  • 2002 Calvin Klein ‘Crave’ (with Yves Cassar and Jean-Marc Chaillan)
  • 2002 Liz Clairborne ‘Bora Bora’ (with Oliver Polge)
  • 2003 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Purple Orchid’ (with Sophia Grojsman)
  • 2004 Curve ‘Crush Men’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan)
  • 2004 Karl Lagerfeld ‘Liquid Karl’ (with Bruno Jovanovic and Sandrine Malin)
  • 2004 Liz Clairborne ‘Realities’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2005 Liz Clairborne ‘Liz’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2006 Banana Republic ‘Rosewood’
  • 2006 Curve Chill Men (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec, Loc Dong)
  • 2007 Christian Lacroix ‘Noir’

Christian Lacroix Nuit

Christian Lacroix ‘Nuit’ (Click photo to enlarge).

  • 2007 Tom Ford ‘Black Violet’ (with Clement Gavarry)
  • 2007 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Summer’ (with Clement Gavarry)
  • 2008 Patrick Dempsey ‘Unscripted’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Emanuelle Ungaro, ‘U by Ungaro for Him’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Summer’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Jessica Simpson ‘Fancy Love’ (with Celine Barel, Clement Gavarry, Yves Cassar)
  • 2009 Michael Kors ‘Very Hollywood’  (with Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2009 Valentino ‘Valentino’
  • 2011 Christian Lacroix ‘Nuit for Him’
  • 2012 Vera Wang ‘Lovestruck Floral Rush’
  • 2013 Diesel ‘Loverdose Tattoo’ (with Anne Flipo)
  • 2014 Diesel ‘Loverdose Tattoo EDT’ (with Anne Flipo)
  • 2015 Diana Vreeland ‘Daringly Different’
  • 2015 Oscar de La Renta ‘Extraordinary’ (with Bruno Jovanovic)

Oscar de La Renta Eau de Parfum EXTRAORDINARY

Oscar de La Renta ‘Extraordinary’ (Click photo to enlarge).

by Jean Amr

A piece of History: Perfume Houses, Annick Goutal

Annick Goutal Hadrian Yakymour

Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien (Click photo to enlarge).

Music and fragrance speak the same language: they’re composed of notes, harmonies – and the finished ‘juice’ we take such pleasure in is known as a ‘composition’. So it’s not so surprising that Annick Goutal, who dedicated her early life to playing the piano, with the dream of being a pianist, should turn, instead, to creating perfumes (which today are loved around the world).

Annick Goutal was born in Aix-en-Provence, the third daughter of a family of eight children, with a father who was a confectioner; as a child, she liked nothing better than tying up chocolates and small packets of sweets with beautiful ribbons – when she wasn’t practising piano. At the age of 16, she won first prize for piano at the prestigious Versailles Conservatory – but not long after, abandoned her pianist dream when the pressure became too much. She moved to London and found work as an au pair, where her classic beauty and slender silhouette was ‘spotted’ by legendary photographer David Bailey. And who better to launch someone on their modelling career…?

camille-goutal-and-isabelle-doyen

Madame Camille Goutal and long time collaborator, master perfumer Isabelle Doyen were on hand to celebrate the new Annick Goutal Boutique 955 Madison Avenue opening (Click photo to enlarge).

Always intellectual, always questioning, Annick had doubts about her new career: how could she accept earning a living so effortlessly? She moved back to Paris, opened an antique shop (Folavril, after a character in a Boris Vian novel). She had her first daughter, Camille. The door of the antique shop closed, another opened: Annick began helping a friend launch a beauty store selling plant-based creams. An echo of her childhood, Annick Goutal set about designing confectionery-style packaging, tied with elegant ribbon bows.

The beauty products needed a fragrance – so Annick headed to Grasse, still the heartland of perfumery today. And it was meeting with a perfumer, Henri Sorsana from fragrance house Robertet, which opened Annick Goutal’s eyes, and more importantly her nose, to what became her true vocation. Before very long, Annick gave up modelling, and instead became a perfumer, showing exceptional talent. She spent four years training, rediscovering the musical language she’d left behind, translated to the world of olfaction.

Annick Goutal Eau Shop Counter Yakymour

Annick Goutal shop counter (Click photo to enlarge).

By chance, at a dinner, Annick had rediscovered her teenage love, Alain Meunier (who she’d met 20 years before at the music conservatory), who was now a famous cellist. She liked nothing better than to listen to Alain practising for a concert, while she played on her own ‘organ’: the array of precious oils and fragrance elements used to compose perfumes.

Annick Goutal Eau Shop Counter Yakymour

In 1981, Annick Goutal created her first signature perfume, Folavrl, with its touches of tomato leaf. It was soon followed by L’Eau d’Hadrien, still worn and loved all over the world by men and women for its timeless, citrus-powered freshness. Her gift: to capture the memories of people she loved, landscapes, and moments which touched her life. Perfume-lovers picked up on that, and she joined the ranks of French ‘haute parfumerie’.

Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien Eau de Toilette YakymourAnnick Goutal, Eau d’Hadrien. A universal perfume inspired by a Tuscany landscape, Eau d’Hadrien is the expression of Annick Goutal’s deep passion for Italy, named after Roman Emperer Hadrian, who was a great lover of arts and ‘everything’ beautiful (Click photo to enlarge).

In 1986, Annick was joined along the way by equally gifted ‘nose’. And the reputation of Annick Goutal spread around the world; by the 1990s, the collection was in the ‘top five’ in leading department stores like Saks and Nieman Marcus, fuelled by the popularity of fragrances like the exquisite floral bouquet of Gardénia Passion, blowsily delectable Rose Absolue, and breezy Eau du Sud. Each new fragrance embodied the French ‘art de vivre’, or way of being: that seductive mix of simplicity and extreme sophistication, so admired around the world.

Annick Goutal Eau du Sud Eau de Toilette Yakymour

Annick Goutal, Eau du Sud. The recollection of a summer evening in Provence, where the daylight seems to be never ending (Click photo to enlarge).

Unbelievably sadly, Annick Goutal died in 1999, at the age of just 53, after a long battle with cancer. Fragrances, of course, are a kind of immortality, but more than that, Annick Goutal passed on her love of rich, complex fragrances to her talented daughter and ‘muse’ Camille. (Camille was the inspiration for both Eau de Camille, and Petite Chérie, a fragrance composed for young women.)

Camille studied Literature at ‘A’ Level, then took courses in art, photography and design at the Louvre Museum School. It led to a career in photography. But scent beckoned. She’d grown up surrounded by it, at the family’s homes in Paris and on the Ile de Ré, whose salt-tanged breezes inspired Annick Goutal Les Sables.

Her mother’s legacy was hugely important to her. And in 1999, Camille took her first steps as ‘Aromatique Majeur’ for her mother’s perfume house. So the baton was passed, and today, there’s a fresh duet at Annick Goutal: Camille Goutal, composing beside Isabelle Doyen, and it’s among the few houses in the world to have its own in-house perfumers.

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio Eau de Toilette Yakymour

Annick Goutal, Ninfeo Mio. The rendition of a wonder-filled stroll through an Italian garden crossed by the Ninfeo river (Click photo to enlarge).

This isn’t someone simply to follow in her mother’s footsteps, though: the innately stylish Camille’s definitely imprinted her own signature at Annick Goutal. As she told The Perfume Society’s Jo Fairley, ‘Unlike my mother, who created Eau de Camille and Eau de Charlotte for me and my sister, I tend not to make my fragrances too ‘personal’, or based on people and places that are sentimental to me. Un Matin d’Orage, for instance, was inspired by a stormy morning on a business trip to Tokyo…’

Other creations have included Les Nuits d’Hadrien (a more sensual version of her mother’s iconic Cologne), bewitchingly exotic Mandragore, and cool, green Ninfeo Mio, inspired by the legendary gardens of Ninfa, just outside Rome (let’s talk about this fragrances later).

Annick Goutal Les Nuits d'Hadrien Eau de Toilette Yakymour

Annick Goutal, Les Nuits d’Hadrien. The illustration of a Tuscan lanscape at dusk, set ablaze by a late afternoon sun (Click photo to enlarge).

Importantly, Camille and Isabelle continue to enjoy complete creative freedom – able to put together notes and harmonies unfettered by ‘marketing briefs’. Annick Goutal would herself surely be so proud of each and every beautiful new composition.

Like she is saying: “We like to think of them as music, for the nose…”

More info at http://www.annickgoutal.com/en/

by Jean Amr

Dior Presents: Balade Sauvage

François Demachy Dior Noses -

For the very first time, Dior Perfumer-Creator François Demachy reveals the source of his olfactory compositions in a film-travelogue, Balade Sauvage, an olfactory road movie that sets out on the trail of his inspiration. Nature is the queen, filmed with an analogical camera. Images rich with raw poetry tell the story of his latest creation, the aptly named ‘Sauvage’ fragrance. Each of its principal notes is identified and projected onto the Californian landscape.

 You don’t create a fragrance in a laboratory

François Demachy

In a series of images the fragrance comes to life before our eyes, vivacious and sensorial. Each notes brings back a memory, a sound, an image, a sensation. At last, the immaterial soul of ‘Sauvage’ is embodied. Follow François Demachy’s trail of inspiration, in an olfactory road movie…

Balade Sauvage by François Demachy

Perfume Houses: Téo Cabanel

Téo Cabanel

Teo Theodore Cabanel

Theodore Cabanel

Théodore Cabanel created the brand in 1893 and he was not a perfumer, he was a doctor. But he was growing orange trees in Nigeria and because he was in the business of raw materials, he decided to make perfumes. He discovered that he was gifted in making them and created around 200 formulas in less than 30 years. Théodore Cabanel creates prestigious Colognes and Quintessences for “extraits de mouchoirs”. An elegant crowd rapidly adopts the Cabanel fragrances.

His daughter chooses to follow in her father’s footsteps in the true tradition of “Maître Parfumeur”. She rapidly becomes the Duchess of Windsor’s favorite perfumer.

Duke Edward VIII and Duchess Wallis Simpson

‘Julie’ was inspired by a very old formula, it was the perfume worn by the Duchess of Windsor. She was Téo Cabanel’s main client between the 1930s and the 1960s

(Click photo to enlarge).

TEO CABANEL Eau de Parfum

Caroline Ilacqua steps into the picture in 2003. Only 22 years old at the time, she boldly takes up the torch and expressing her own sensitivity gives a zip to the timeless fragrances. Working hand in hand with Jean-François Latty, one of the best in the profession, she opens a new chapter in this great adventure. Together, they take their inspiration from the more than 150 emblematic Cabanel perfume formulas. They venture to play the score with their own modern interpretation. Some formulas are very ‘old-fashioned’, using some ingredients that are not allowed anymore … ‘Even if we wanted, we would not be able to make it again. But some are still good and we just have to work a bit on them’.

TEO CABANEL Eau de Parfum Toilette

Alamhine, Oha, Early Roses, Julia, Méloé, Hegoa

(Click photo to enlarge)

Today, it may be said that Teo Cabanel has re-invented exceptional perfumes which combine natural elegance and richness, the authentic sign of High French Perfumery. As the creator of rare refined fragrances, Teo Cabanel brings the utmost care to each and every one of its perfume creations. You cannot fail to recognize them for the quality of their fragrances and their unique design. We make no compromise on the quality. Only the purest, most natural and noble ingredients will do.

Caroline Ilacqua Téo Cabanel

Caroline Ilacqua (Click photo to enlarge).

Chairman of the Board, Teo Cabanel brand’ owner. Born in Fontainebleau (France) in 1981 Caroline Ilacqua inherits the Téo Cabanel company when she is barely 22. Upon graduating in International Business in Paris and Dublin, she started working in the field of advertising with Ogilvy & Mather. A few months later, her godmother, the daughter of Théodore Cabanel, names her sole heir of the Téo Cabanel brand. She was suddenly owner of not only an old perfume house full of stories but also a precious book with ancient fragrance formulas, and she decides to highlight this valuable heritage. Taking root in this formidable past, she launches forward with her fervent creativity and dedication to quality. She creates around Teo Cabanel a whole olfactory universe dominated by pure, natural and precious ingredients. The brand was brought back to life and is now more active than ever

Jean-Francois Latty Noise Teo Cabanel

Jean-François Latty

After graduating from the Roure Perfume Institute in Grasse, Jean-François Latty starts to work for Roure in Paris creating his first fragrances. In 1970, he joins Roure USA and after a year is hired by International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF). In 1987, Takasago asks him to join the company and he sets off numerous successful fragrances. In 2000, he created JFL Creations a company specialized in perfume creation and in selling natural ingredients.

Téo Cabanel

Immediately attracted by the Téo Cabanel heritage, Jean-François Latty asked by Caroline Ilacqua  to become Téo Cabanel’s official perfumer. Quality doesn’t mix with compromise! Such is Latty’s motto and philosophy for all his creations. Thus, his fragrances don’t derive from marketing trends and passing fashion.

More on Teo Cabanel’s scent’s soon, here at Yakymour.

for more information:

http://www.teo-cabanel.com/en/parfums

by Jean Amr