A portrait, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud

 

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Renowned perfumers often leave their mark with a single famous creation that changes the industry, but a few do so with not one – or two – but many different perfumes. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier is just such a figure, having changed our scented world with such industry changers as Jean Paul Gaultier’s Classique, Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey, Lancôme’s Poême and Nina Ricci’s Nina. He has created perfumes for Maison’s as famous as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Rochas, designers like Giorgio Armani and Stella McCartney, and niches like Caudalie and Eau d’Italie.

Although Jacques Cavallier has one of the most extensive backgrounds in natural scent materials, it was inventive use of Calone-1951, the component sometimes referred to as ‘watermelon ketone’ that brought him the most attention for his early creations. He brought a freshness and light to perfumes like L’Eau d’Issey that re-imagined what a fragrance could be.

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As a schoolboy in Grasse, Jacques Cavalier Belletrud would walk by an imposing portal. He had no idea what sat behind the wrought iron gates that so intrigued him. Little could he have imagined that, in 2016, this very place would become his creative workshop.

From my earliest childhood I heard all about perfume. Creating scents is like breathing for me – it’s just the obvious thing to do.

Jacques Cavallier Belletrud

Jacques Cavallier was fittingly born in 1962 in Grasse, France, the third in a series of perfuming men. Like his father and grandfather before him, he dedicated himself to the study there in his home turf.

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At the age of eight, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud went to his father, and told him he wanted to follow in his footsteps. He learned perfume notes the way other children practiced piano scales. When he got good grades in school, his father allowed him to weigh out formulas. The day after receiving his high school diploma, he began working in a perfume factory in Grasse, where he learned to distill flowers.

He studied French and Spanish at the University of Nice, and at 18, he created his first formula – but his father reminded him that becoming a perfumer takes much more than mixing a few scents together. It would take a lot of hard work to be hired at the famous perfume and flavor company Firmenich that he met Alberto Morillas, with whom he collaborated on many perfumes, and where he would spend the next 22 years.

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Jacques is a perfumer of great variation and considerable range. His work is intensely wearable, and it may be due alone to this singular quality that he was awarded the Prix François Coty at the Prix International du Parfum in 2004.

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  • 1990 Jean Paul Gaultier – Femme (f)
  • 1992 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey (f)
  • 1992 Cartier – Pasha de Cartier (m)
  • 1993 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Femme re-named) (f)
  • 1993 Azzaro – Oh La La (f)
  • 1994 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme (m)
  • 1995 Lancôme – Poême (f)
  • 1995 Yves Saint Laurent – Opium Pour Homme (m)
  • 1995 Yves Saint Laurent – Opium Pour Homme Eau de Parfum (m)
  • 1996 Bvlgari – Pour Homme (m)
  • 1997 Shiseido – Vocalise (f)
  • 1998 Rochas – Alchimie (f)
  • 1998 Christian Dior – Eau de Doce Vita (f)
  • 1998 Salvatore Ferragamo – Pour Femme (f)
  • 1998 Issey Miyake – Le Feu d’Issey (f)
  • 1999 Bvlgari – Pour Homme Extrême (m)
  • 1999 Krizia – Easy Krizia (f)
  • 1999 Paco Rabanne – Ultraviolet (f)

 
Lancôme-Poême

  • 2000 Issey Miyake – Le Feu d’Issey Light (f)
  • 2000 Jil Sander – Sander For Men (m)
  • 2000 Givenchy – Haute Couture (f)
  • 2000 Givenchy – Haute Couture Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2000 Giorgio Armani – Mania (f)
  • 2000 Calvin Klein – Truth (f)
  • 2000 Boucheron – Initial (f)
  • 2001 Van Cleef & Arpels – Zanzibar (m)
  • 2001 Rochas – Aquaman (m)
  • 2001 Fendi – Theorema Uomo (m)
  • 2001 Yves Saint Laurent – Nu (f)
  • 2001 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Pour Homme (m)
  • 2001 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Metal Beach (f)
  • 2002 Paco Rabanne – Ultra Violet Aquatic Plastic (f)
  • 2002 Van Cleef & Arpels – Murmure (f)
  • 2002 Carolina Herrera – Chic (f)
  • 2002 Oscar de La Renta – Intrusion (f)
  • 2002 Salvatore Ferragamo – Parfum Subtil (f)
  • 2002 Yves Saint Laurent – M7 (m)
  • 2003 Yves Saint Laurent – Nu Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2003 Yves Saint Laurent – Rive Gauche Pour Homme (m)
  • 2003 Rochas – Absolu (f)
  • 2003 Lancôme – Calypso (f)
  • 2003 Roger & Gallet – Eau de Gingembre (f/m)
  • 2003 Bvlgari – Eau Parfumee au The Blanc (f/m)
  • 2003 Ermenegildo Zegna – Essenza di Zegna (m)
  • 2003 Stella McCartney – Stella (f)
  • 2003 Alexander McQueen – Kingdom (f)
  • 2004 Alexander McQueen – Kingdom (Lim.Edition) (f)
  • 2004 Issey Miyake – L’Eau Bleue d’Issey Pour Homme (m)
  • 2004 Yves Saint Laurent – Cinema (f)
  • 2004 Calvin Klein – Eternity Moment (f)
  • 2004 Boucheron – Trouble (f)
  • 2005 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme (m)
  • 2005 Exte – J’S Exte Woman (f)
  • 2005 Roberto Cavali – Serpentine (f)
  • 2006 Stella McCartney – Stella in Two Peony (f)
  • 2006 Stella McCartney – Stella in Two Amber (f)
  • 2006 Nina Ricci – Nina (f)
  • 2006 Kenzo – L’Eau par Kenzo Love L’Eau (f)
  • 2007 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Intense (m)
  • 2007 Christain Dior – Midnight Poison (f)
  • 2007 Christain Dior – Midnight Poison Extrait de Parfum (f)
  • 2007 Yves Saint Laurent – Elle (f)
  • 2007 Nina Ricci – Nina Prestige Edition (f)
  • 2007 Diesel – Fuel For Life Homme (m)
  • 2007 Diesel – Fuel For Life Femme (f)
  • 2008 Diesel – Fuel For Life Unlimited (f)
  • 2008 Diesel – Fuel For Life Cologne for Men (m)
  • 2008 Yves Roger – Tendre Jasmin (f)
  • 2008 Lancôme – Magnifique (f)
  • 2008 Yves Saint Laurent – Elle Summer Edition (f)
  • 2008 Nina Ricci – Nina Gold Edition (f)
  • 2008 Kenzo – L’Eau par Kenzo Ice Pour Homme (m)
  • 2008 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men (m)
  • 2008 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Extract Shiro Kurumata (f)
  • 2008 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Marine (m)
  • 2009 Bvlgari – Blv Eau de Parfum II (f)
  • 2009 Yves Roger – So Elixer (f)
  • 2009 Nina Ricci – Nina Precious Swarovski Edition (f)
  • 2009 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Ettore Sottsass Edition (f)

 

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  • 2010 Yves Roger – So Elixer Eau de Toilette (f)
  • 2010 Yves Roger – Vanilla Noire (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Summer Edition (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Summer Edition (m)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Fleur de Bois (f)
  • 2010 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Edition Bois (m)
  • 2010 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X Jewel Edition (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X Love Actually (f)
  • 2011 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds Black Carat for Her (f)
  • 2011 Giorgio Armani – Emporio Armani Diamonds Black Carat for Him (m)
  • 2011 Yves Roger – Vanilla Noire Eau de Parfum (f)
  • 2011 Caudalie – Thé Des Vignes (f)
  • 2011 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Toniq (m)
  • 2011 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Marine Toniq (m)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Love Actually (f)
  • 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Silver My Skin (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 01) (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 02) (f)
  • 2011 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 03) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – L.I.L.Y. (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 01) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 02) (f)
  • 2012 Stella McCartney – Stella (Print Collection 03) (f)
  • 2012 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique X L’Eau (f)
  • 2012 Issey Miyake – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport (m)
  • 2012 Halle Berry – Closer (f)
  • 2012 Eau d’Italie – Un Bateau Pour Capri (f)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Florentine Ires (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Indonesian Oud (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Javanese Patchouli (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Italian Bergamot (m)
  • 2012 Ermenegildo Zegna – Sicilian Mandarin (m)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Beach Walk (f)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Flower Market (f)
  • 2012 Maison Martin Margiela – Funfair Evening (f)
  • 2012 Nina Ricci – Nina Fantasy (f)
  • 2013 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Belle et Corset (f)
  • 2014 Stella McCartney – Stella (re-launch) (f)
  • 2014 Caudalie – Parfum Devin (f)
  • 2014 O Boticário – Linda na Dança (f)
  • 2014 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Collector Edition ’14) (f)
  • 2014 Bvlgari – Aqva Amara (m)
  • 2015 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique Pirate (Collector Edition ’15) (f)
  • 2015 Bvlgari – Eau Parfumee au The Noir (f/m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Splendida Magnolia Sensual (f)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Ombero (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Garanat (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Gyan (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Malakeos (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Onekh (m)
  • 2016 Bvlgari – Tygar (m)
  • 2017 Bvlgari – Aqva Pour Homme Atlantiqve (m)
  • 2017 Jean Paul Gaultier – Classique (Collector Edition ’17) (f)
  • 2019 Bvlgari – Falkar (m)
  • 2019 Bvlgari – Opalon (m)2019 Bvlgari – Yasep (m)

For a long time Jacques Cavallier Belletrud worked for Firmenich, a company that produces perfumes for other brands, he moved on to the LVMH group (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey SE) in 2012, where he works together with François Demachy as in-house master perfumer, and becoming the exclusive perfumer for Louis Vuitton. Named Maître Parfumeur of Louis Vuitton, he traveled the world for four years to perfect the first collection of Louis Vuitton perfumes. The French Maison hadn’t released any scents since the mid-twentieth century, marking new territory in creative exploration for them.

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  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Turbulences (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Rose des Vents (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Mille Feux (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Apogée (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Matière Noire (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Dans la Peau (f)
  • 2016 Louis Vuitton – Contre Moi (f)

 

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  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Sur la Route (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Ombre Nomade (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Orage (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Nouveau Monde (f/m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – L’Immensité (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Attrape-Rêves (f)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Au Hasard (m)
  • 2018 Louis Vuitton – Le Jour se Lève (f)

 

  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Cactus Garden (f/m)
  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Afternoon Swim (f/m)
  • 2019 Louis Vuitton – Sun Song (f/m)

Wondering what Jacques Cavallier Belletrud creates for us in the future…..

 

 

 

Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau So Sweet

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Fashion designer Marc Jacobs launches a new sunny and warm perfume for women, Daisy Love Eau So Sweet. Created by the famous perfumer Alberto Morillas, Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau So Sweet is the new flanker to the original Daisy perfume that has a very attractive design as well as a mouthwatering scent.

This time, the pale pink bottle is simply irresistible with a pleasant fresh/sweetie aroma to be instantly adored and loved. Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau So Sweet opens to impress with a pleasant aroma made of fresh bergamot, white raspberries and blackberries nicely calmed with floral accords of jasmine and daisy flower. The base settles with woody notes, sugared musk and white iris.

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A pleasant and nice new perfume that is advertised by the gorgeous model Kaia Gerber. Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau So Sweet is available as 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette. Come into the beautiful world of Marc Jacobs. 

 

 

 

 

Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiori

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Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is one of the world’s leading luxury fashion brands, with a renowned reputation for creativity, innovation and Italian craftsmanship.

Now the Italian fashion house is presenting Gocce di Fiori, a new scent from the Gucci Bloom family that encapsulates the scenes and senses of Spring. Blended to convey the budding first days of the season, and the heightened rush of promise in everything new, Gocce di Fiori is a delicate Eau de Toilette rendition of the original ‘vintage’ Gucci Bloom fragrance. Ethereal and soft like the raindrops that fall in Spring, Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiori is a light, fresh version of the original scent.

Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiori is created by the famous perfumer Alberto Morillas as ‘ethereal and soft like the raindrops that fall in spring.

Delicately perfuming the skin, the fragrance is reflected in its Italian name ‘Gocce di Fiori’, meaning flower drops. Gocce di Fiori is blended by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, who also created the other Gucci Bloom scents from the idea of Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele.

Top notes: Jasmin
Hart: Tuberose
Basis: Rangoon creeper

Instead of a classical fragrance pyramid construction of top, heart and base notes, Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiori opens fully at once with a trio of highly-concentrated luxurious ingredients: Jasmine Bud extract, natural Tuberose absolute and Rangoon Creeper (Chinese honeysuckle flower) – the flower that embodies the Gucci Bloom scent story’s concept and name, as it changes colour from white, gradually darkens to pink then finally to red when it blooms.

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Like the original Bloom fragrance, in line with Michele’s ‘grandma chic’ fashion collection inspired by the ’70s, the bottle of lacquered porcelain, is square and colored in vintage powdery pink, decorated with a simple black and white label. It gives me an impression of clean, creamy, white florals. The box showcases an herbarium pattern of a red-and-white ‘toile de Jouy’ house print of leaves, a signature Gucci motif reinterpreted by Alessandro Michele.

Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiori is available as 100ml Eau de Toilette.

 

 

 

 

Bvlgari Rose Goldea Limited Edition

 

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Italian jeweler Bvlgari has never been one to shy away from boldness, so it comes as little surprise that the Italian Maison has transformed its iconic Rose Goldea fragrance this season with an exuberance that could only come from artist Jacky Tsai, making it the perfect gift for the upcoming festive season.

A limited edition scent decorated by Chinese artist Jacky Tsai designed to celebrate Rose Goldea’s second birthday. The illustrated bottle combines roses a nod to the main bloom in the scent, and the iconic Bulgari Serpenti jewellery design.

Known for his ability to fuse elements of Western pop art with ancient Chinese motifs, Tsai has been at the forefront of the art world for his refreshing approach to cultural differences, often with a whimsical twist. Here, the youthfulness and splendour of the lively fragrance is evoked with a vivid burst of blooms, a whimsical garden which sees a serpent elegantly weaving through the flowers.

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Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice the Bvlgari icon forms the delicate silhouette of a face, a fleeting sight which pays tribute to the Roman goddess whose magic garden inspired the scent.

Now a firm favourite within Bvlgari’s spectacular line-up of fragrances, Rose Goldea – created by Alberto Morillas – is an enchanting exploration of femininity. The delicate aroma of roses are lifted by lively pomegranate notes, a fresh twist which then transitions into seductive middle notes of Damask rose absolute and grandiflorum.

It’s for rose fragrance lovers. However, it’s not granny it’s musky and sexy. The rose and pomegranate blend with jasmine, frankincense, and sandalwood leaves a woody softness on the skin that lasts for hours.

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The floral accord finally culminates with a musky finish of sandalwood milk and white incense, giving the fragrance a distinctive exuberance that encapsulates the brilliance of the precious rose gold metal, and with a boldness that’ll undoubtedly help you shine during the festivities.

Any limited edition fragrance is worth investigating in, especially if it belongs to a fragrance family you love. This pretty floral not only ticks all the boxes for being an ultra feminine scent that is ideal for summer, the artsy bottle makes it a divine keepsake, that will add the glam factor to any dressing table.

Come into the world of Bvlgari and Jacky Tsai.

 

 

 

By Kilian Dark Lord Ex Tenebris Lux

 

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Descended from a long line of cognac makers, Kilian Hennessy spent his childhood among the scents of woody barrels and sugary alcohol in the family cellars. He went on to work for prestigious perfume houses such as Christian Dior, Paco Rabanne and Alexander Wang before launching his namesake brand in 2007.

Reminiscent of his early experiences with the power of scent, Kilian fragrances embody ultimate sophistication and timeless luxury. All By Kilian perfumes are designed very delicately, look stylish, and smell refined and elegant. This fall, a very lingering composition appears in the By Kilian line of perfumes.

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Created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas, Dark Lord Ex Tenebris Lux By Kilian has a balanced composition made of opening notes of Sichuan and bourbon peppers along with fresh bergamot accords. The heart of the perfume is made of exclusive davana, rum and Indian jasmine sambac along with woody base notes of cypriol, Atlas cedar, patchouli, and Haitian vetiver.

Top notes: Bergamot, Bourbon pepper, Sichuan pepper
Heart notes: Davana, Rum, Indian jasmine sambac
Base notes: Atlas cedar, Haitian  Patchouili

Dark Lord Ex Tenebris Lux is a gentleman of the night. Meet him in the most surprising of circumstances and his mystery slowly unfolds: A head-twisting mix of shadows and light, it seduces in seconds with its elegant, long-lasting accords of leather and strong vetiver, its jasmine drenched in rum, and a dandyish entrance of bergamot and pepper.

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From darkness into light. Under lock and tasseled key, the flacon is carved with the Achilles Shield as a symbol of protection and finished with monogram-engraved gunmetal details. A smiling skull rises like a monument atop a black lacquered wooden coffret, illuminating a display of grim magnificence. True luxury should last a lifetime, and as such, Kilian fragrance flacons are designed to be refilled.

By Kilian Dark Lord Ex Tenebris Lux is available as 50ml Eau de Parfum.

 

 

 

 

Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature

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Salvatore Ferragamo launches a new perfume for men Uomo Signaturethe new flanker Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo launched in 2016. The new perfume, Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature, is described as an intense oriental/leathery fragrance for men.

Top notes: Italian mandarin, Pink pepper
Heart: Cardamom, Cedar, Cinnamon
Base: Coffee, Leather, Patchouli, Tonka bean

Created by famous perfumer Alberto Morillas, Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature opens with a hint of fresh citrusy Italian mandarin quickly transforming into a mature aroma due to oriental notes of cardamom and cinnamon. The base settles down with woody notes of patchouli, leather, coffee and tonka bean.

Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo Signature is available as 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Parfum. 

 

 

 

 

 

Bvlgari Man Wood Essence

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Italian jeweler and watchmaker Bvlgari delights its manly wearers with a new perfume that looks and smells very eco, natural, fresh and earthy. Bvlgari Man Wood Essence is the new flanker to the original Bvlgari Man launched in 2010.

Bvlgari Man Wood Essence epitomizes the strong ties between the City and Nature. Bridging urban life and wide open-spaces, the new Eau de Parfum reconnects man with his own inner strength. A perfume pervaded by a powerful green freshness and exhaling a wood-driven life force. A scent of authenticity and a return to cardinal values.

Created as an elegant and seductive pure perfume by famous perfumer Alberto Morillas, Bvlgari Man Wood Essence blends a wood trio uniting the finest perfumery essences – Cedar, Cypress, and Vetiver – resonating with the warm and sunny notes of Benzoin resins. Incredible freshness tinged with an Italian zest and the subtly aromatic green accents of Coriander.

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Bvlgari Man Wood Essence is advertised by the ultimate nature-loving city dweller, the handsome Canadian actor and model Nick Bateman.

Bvlgari Man Wood Essence, a must-have accessory the end of the summer, is available as 60 and 100ml Eau de Parfum.