The Museum of Lace and Fashion, Calais presents Hubert de Givenchy retrospective

From June 15 to December 31, 2017, The Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, France, is holding an exhibition dedicated to the work of Hubert de Givenchy, the legendary fashion designer and founder of the French Maison. Seventy outfits symbolizing his inspirations, his expertise and his significant encounters recap almost six decades of fashion design. Now 90, the designer has dressed some of the most amazing women in the last 50 years, from Audrey Hepburn to The Begum Aga Khan to Daisy Fellows.

The master of couture and dress presents an inside look to his work and inspiration.

The show will see 70 outfits from private wardrobes, the Givenchy archives and the collection of several European museums go on public display for over six months. Under the artistic direction and curation of Hubert de Givenchy himself, the exhibition will retrace the couturier’s entire career, from his first collection in 1952 to his sumptuous wedding gowns and his key encounters.

The show, which presents couture creations in sober white, gray and black display cases backed by mirrors, opens with a section dedicated to haute couture fabric samples. Essential tools in the creation of bespoke garments, the different fabrics and textiles with which Hubert de Givenchy worked hold a key place in the exhibition. In fact, exceptional textiles are something of a running theme, with the show also highlighting the work of artisans the couturier worked with for decades, such as embroiderers Lesage and Vermont, and fabric manufacturers Abraham and Beuclère.

Standout pieces include a blue and white striped organza sheath dress worn by the Duchess of Windsor, a famous ‘Bettina’ cotton blouse dating from 1952, a spectacular ball gown in Chantilly Lace  and satin, an evening ensemble in lame brocade and embroidered with gold and silver braids, metallic leaves and beads, and a cocktail dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Blake Edwards’ movie ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’.

Certain encounters proved particularly influential on the work of Hubert de Givenchy. From Jacqueline Kennedy and the Duchess of Windsor to the Countess de Borchgrave, the designer dressed some of society’s most stylish figures. Meeting his muse, Audrey Hepburn, proved particularly decisive, both for his career and for the actress’ style, which was built through their friendship. A whole section of the exhibition will explore this relationship, featuring several gowns worn by Audrey Hepburn in ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ and ‘How to Steal a Million’, as well as clips from her movies.

In addition, the exhibition highlights the designer’s artistic inspirations and explores Givenchy fragrances, while also showcasing exceptional eveningwear creations and imposing wedding gowns made from lace and tulle.

Hubert de Givenchy – The Museum of Lace and Fashion, Calais, France will be opened from June 15 to December 31, 2017.

 

 

 

 

 

‘Le Bal Oriental’

Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild  married her distant cousin Guy de Rothschild. Her husband and his sisters, Jacqueline and Bethsabée, grew up in the castle of Ferrières in the countryside, just outside of Paris. The Castle remained empty until 1959, after the German troops during the occupation of France in World War II.

Afterwards the newly married Rothschilds made the decision, to live at the Castle. The Interior of the large Castle was by Marie-Hélène. The Castle grew into a place where European nobility, during exuberant parties, came into contact with musicians, artists, fashion designers and movie stars from Europe and Hollywood. The hip and inventive thematic evenings they organized, both in Paris and New York, were usually to raise money for charity, were much discussed.

Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild  and her husband, baron Guy de Rothschild bought the Hôtel Lambert on the island of Saint-Louis, one of Paris ‘ most prestigious homes, where they involved the upper floors. Marie-Hélène became close friends with the in the ‘ society ‘ active baron Alexis de Redé who lived on the first floor of the Hôtel Lambert and who was a regular on their parties. In recognition of her importance for the international promotion of the French culture and fashion, Marie-Hélène de Rothschild was awarded the “Legion of honor” granted.

Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild

Alexis de Redé tells in ‘Alexis, the Memoirs of the Baron de Redé’:  “The Oriental Ball in 1969 has been described as one of the most fantastic parties of the twentieth century, and as a high point in my life. I am frequently asked what the reason was for giving it, and I have to say there was no special reason. I just decided to give a ball.
The Oriental Ball made me well known in Paris, that and my occasional racing successes. it attracted a huge amount of publicity. I began to plan it in March 1969, sent out the invitations in May and the ball itself took place on 5 December”.

Invitation ‘Le Bal Oriental’ at L’Hôtel Lambert, Paris

“There were about 400 guests at the ball. Nobody dined beforehand. The ball started at 10 o’clock and went on until about 5 in the morning”

Valerian Styx-Rybar and Jean-François Daigre

“Jean-François Daigre, a discovery of Marie-Hélène’s, designed the evening. He had worked for Jacques Dupont. He had vivid imagination, but a terrible temper, and there were dreadful rows between him and Marie-Hélène. He would suddenly lose is head and shout. ‘Do it yourself,’ and then storm off. There were so many flare-ups that it became nerve-wracking but as ever, it was all right on the night. I did not have those problems working with him. Daigre transformed the Lambert into a Eastern fantasy”.

“There were two huge white life-sized elephants made of papier maché in the courtyard. These were ornately dressed and a rider sat on top, under a golden canopy. At the bottom of the stairs, there were two Hindu musicians, a zither player in red and gold and a beauty in a turquoise sari, clinking cymbals. All the way up the staircase to the apartment, at suitable intervals, stood sixteen half-naked muscular men, hired from Paris gymnasiums, dressed as Nubian slaves, holding torches to guide the guests”.

“At the top a figure in black tunic and long black turban announced the guests in a reverberanting voice. I greeted them as a Mogul prince, my costume designed by Pierre Cardin”.

Alexis de Redé

Estée Lauder’s husband complained that his Fu Manchu moustache itched all evening.

“The Lambert itself was a fantasy reminiscent of the ‘Thousand and One Nights’. All about was the scent of jasmine and myrrh. The Hercules Gallery was filled with Turks, Arabs, Russians, Chinese and Japanese. Turbans and false beards abounded”.

Baroness Marie-Hélène and Baron Guy de Rothschild

“Marie-Hélène came as a Siamese dancer, Johannes von Thurn and Taxis as a Hussar, and my favourite guest was the Vicomtesse de Bonchamps, an American living in the Avenue Foch, who was born as Dale King”.

Viscountess of Bonchamps and Countess of Ribes

“She came as a pagoda. She Had to be brought to the ball in the back of a truck, as her costume was made out of metal. She could not sit down in the truck and she could not sit down at all until she took it off. You have to make a balance between enjoying the evening, or the impression you want to make, I am not sure she got it right”.

Serge Lifar and Patricia Lopez-Willshaw

“Kenneth J. Lane, the jeweller, wore a turban of Russian sable skins, with wolf tails hanging from it and a huge cape made of Zorino skunk, trimmed with wolf. It was a warm night, so he may have suffered a bit”.

Prince Rupert zu Lowenstein and Madame Graham Mattison.

“Other guests included the Prince Karin Aga Khan, his wife Begum Salimah Aga Khan and the Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan, Crown Princess Margrethe of Denmark and her husband Prince Henrik., Valerian Styx-Rybar, Jimmy Douglas, Clé-Clé de Maillé, Brigit Bardot, the Lowensteins, Salvador Dali, Amanda Lear and Bettina. One guest brought a baby panther in his arms”.

Amanda Lear, Salvador Dalí and ‘unknown’ guest.

Today, fourty-six years ago, Salvador Dali, Amanda Lear and Her Highness The Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III attend ‘Le Bal Oriental’ hosted by the Baron de Rédé and his friend the Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild at the Hôtel Lambert, Paris, December 5, 1969.

The Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan at ‘Le Bal Oriental’ (Click photo to enlarge).

The Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan at ‘Le Bal Oriental’ (Click photo to enlarge).

Clé-Clé de Maillé came to this ball. It was her last appearance in public. The next day she went to the clinic, where she died two weeks later. She had been diagnosed with breast cancer, but did not want to have the breast removed sonce her greatest joy in life was to sunbathe naked. So instead she took chemotherapy with distressing results.

Madame Vincente-Minnelli and Madame Jean-Claude Abreu

Brigitte Bardot was almost naked but for strings of coins and a little black chiffon, as was the recently widowed Odile Rubirosa, of whom the press wrotw, she arrived ‘all but nude, her bare bottom covered by a bit of silver chain mail (with great chinks in it) trough which Odile’s charms shone through. ‘Her costume was predictably audacious.”

“I have a wonderful memory of the evening nonetheless, and its full splendour is recorded in a vast album, bound in leather and encrusted with semi-precious stones. with watercolour images of the décor and guests by Serebriakoff.”

by Alexis de Redé in ALEXIS, the Memoirs of the Baron de Redé

Princesse Marina de Bourbon Sunshine Lys

French perfume house Princesse Marina de Bourbon was founded by Marina Gacry, whos husband is Prince André de Bourbon-Parma, a member of te ancient Bourbon de Parma dynasty whose members ruled over France, Navarre, the kingdom of Napels, the Duchy of Parma and still to this day over the throne of Spain.

Surviving a very a difficult, childhood, she would become in just a few years a very pretty young woman determined to succeed and hungry for knowledge. In order to finance her studies, she accepted a position under the the famous hairdresser Alexandre de Paris, becoming his main assistant.

Prince André de Bourbon Parma and Marina Gacry

As an assistant of one of the most famous and prominent hairstylist, Marina rubbed elbows with some of Europe’s wealthies, most powerful and famous names, like the Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan, The Rothschilds, Bettina Graziani, Brigit Bardot, Audrey Hepburn and many more… Having conquered this social circle with her charm and intelligence, shewas invited to St. Tropez, While living there, she met er Prince: André de Bourbon Parma. After a while they returned to Paris where they married on May 9, 1960. – Sadly, Prince André de Bourbon Parma died last year in October at the age of 83.

Shortly after her marriage she began her career as interior designer, providing her clients with art objects for their homes and offices. Celebrities worldwide and European aristcrates relied on her for her impeccable taste. Longing for a new creative outlet, Princess Marina wished to create her own perfume and signed a licence with Gilles Pommereau, To support her new venture she opened her first concept store in Paris, on the Boulevard de Courcelles. The Princess can often be found in residence at the boutique, where she is happy to present her perfume line, along with other luxury products.

Now Princesse Marina de Bourbon presents its new luminous, sparkling and feminine perfume, Sunshine Lys. Princesse Marina de Bourbon Sunshine Lys is the new fragrance part of the Lys Collection featuring also; Lys (2005), Eau de Lys (2006), Paradise Lys (2009) and Fleur de Lys (2010). The new perfume offers a cheerful, playful and fresh aroma this time sealed in an attractive yellow bottle.

Princesse Marina de Bourbon Sunshine Lys opens with amazing fresh and lovely notes inspiring spring feelings of freshness and blossom. It is a fruity/flowery fragrance composed of aquatic hyacinth mixed with violet leaves and Calabrian lemon along with heart notes of juicy strawberry, Egyptian jasmine and lily of the valley. The base indulges and calms with vanilla orchid, frozen musk and amberwood accords.

 

Sunshine Lys by Princesse Marina de Bourbon is ideal for women loving freshness, pureness, the calm and pure smell of spring emotions.

Princesse Marina de Bourbon Sunshine Lys will be available as 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Parfum.