Giorgio Armani’s ‘Si Rose Signature’ dressed in a new couture design

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Launched in 2016, Giorgio Armani’s ‘Si Rose Signature’ is an ode to the modern woman, with a busy and bold, yet elegant persona. Like a rose—the scent’s hallmark ingrediënt – ‘Si Rose Signature’ blooms each springtime with a collector edition bottle this 2017. With actress Cate Blanchett as the face of this campaign, the scent is reinterpreted with a new couture design showcasing the fragrance’s feminine and sensual side.

Created by perfumer Julie Massé, who created ‘Si Intense’ with Christine Nagel, this Eau de Parfum stands out with its twin rose notes. In fact, ‘Si Rose Signature’ inherits the signature May Rose notes of ‘Si’ and pairs them with Damask Rose.

 

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Giorgio Armani’s ‘Si Rose Signature’ fragrance remains unchanged in this collector’s edition, with the same floral aroma as the 2016 original. The scent has a double rose accord – with May Rose and Turkish Rose – enriched with notes of bergamot, mandarin, freesia and blackcurrant aromas of Cassis Neo Jungle Essence. This is matched with iris and osmanthus, ambrette and vanilla notes. This is followed by base notes of ambrette absolute, Pure Jungle vanilla extract and patchouli.

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This year, Giorgio Armani has dressed ‘Si Rose Signature’ in a silky powder pink ribbon that winds around the fragrance’s Onyx lid and falls down over the glass bottle, where its two ends cross. The ribbon evokes the décolleté of a haute couture gown, with delicate and refined style. A discreet black circular badge bearing the fragrance’s name holds the ribbon’s crossover ends in place, echoing the deep black finish of the lid, which has golden rings at its base.

An ode to femininity: Giorgio Armani features actress Cate Blanchett in a stunning new campaign for ‘Si Rose Signature’.

Giorgio Armani ‘Si Rose Signature’ is available in 50 ml (€89) and 100ml (€128) Eau de Parfum. The 2017 limited edition collector edition of ‘Si Rose Signature’ is available now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

L’Hommage à L’Homme

Lalique

Hommage à L’Homme is a beautiful masculine fragrance by Lalique. The scent was launched in 2011 and the fragrance was created by perfumers Christine Nagel and Mathilde Bijaoui. A beautiful, virile, woody, spicy fragrance. A praise to masculinity and travel.

 

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Lalique Hommage à L’Homme Eau de Toilette (Click photo to enlarge).

Lalique celebrated to be 20 years in the fragrant business… and many more in the business of providing precious crystals for perfumes. In order to mark this important anniversary, they launched a new masculine fragrance aboard the luxurious Orient Express. The chosen spot couldn’t be more laden with historical memory: Not only had René Lalique decorated several of the legendary train’s wagons with his ornate creations, but his grand-daughter Marie-Claude launched the first feminine scent by the house of Lalique, ‘Lalique de Lalique’, on the Orient Express herself in 1992. Nowadays Lalique counts 9 fragrances in their catalogs, 5 for women and 4 for men, distributed in a very selective circuit of doors.

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Homage à L’Homme (Homage to Men), is a light spicy woody fragrance for men which reads as a ‘niche’ scent, developed by acclaimed perfumers Christine Nagel and Mathilde Bijaoui.

L’Hommage exists in a hazy netherworld where it’s basically a mainstream scent that’s much better than its brothers at the discount store, but it’s nowhere near as good as the artful scents it’s clearly inspired by.

  • Top Note: Violet Leaf, Bergamot, Saffron
  • Middle Note: Chili Leaf, Violet, Black Pepper
  • Dry-down Note: Cistus, Oud, Musks

It goes on with that incredibly common ‘grape drink’ violet smell that masculine scents use to lure in inexperienced noses, but instead of mixing it with the bleachy aquatic smells it’s usually paired with, L’Hommage pairs it with a very nice pine forest smell. The grape keeps it sweet and inoffensive enough to not scare away consumers who would never wear a real top-notch smoky wood perfume, while a pinch of leathery oud simmers in the background. There’s a moment a few hours in where the grape has largely faded and the whole thing smells like a smoky pine forest with a pinch of oud, but L’Hommage maintains an artificial ‘fakeness’ that’s probably intended to keep it safe for the wear-it-to-work crowd, but that unfortunately also smothers any hope of real perfume transcendence. The drydown is just more sweet fake woods, now paired with pie spices, again, really not bad, but it could have been so much better (for the pampered people among us). But despite that: it’s one of the best mass-market scents I’ve smelled the last years. Hommage à l’homme smells ‘dressy’ and suited to all seasons, it has good sillage and excellent lasting power.

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Limited edition: Lalique Hommage à L’Homme Extrait de Parfum in Crystal (Click photo to enlarge).

It is available in two declinations: Lalique Hommage à L’Homme Extrait de Parfum, 100ml, in crystal for collectors (cost 1200 euros) which is inspired by Art Deco style with the sculpted Pan-pipe man (on both sides of the bottle) , referencing the original sculpture made by René Lalique for the Orient Express in 1929. The Eau de Toilette bottle in glass, designed by Thierry de Baschmakoff (Aesthete), which is also inspired by Art Deco style, was inspired by another René Lalique project, the ‘Duncan’ bathroom accessories collection of 1931.

Lalique was also reissuing the flacon ‘chèvrefeuille’, decorated in gold, in a limited edition of 50 numbered pieces for collectors, in celebration of its 20th anniversary

What a gem from Lalique! It’s an absolute pleasure to smell and could not possibly offend anybody. I can recommended it as a blind buy for anyone in search of subtle sophistication and class. Considering the price, you can’t go wrong with Hommage a L’Homme, as Lalique continues to wow me with the care they put into their product and packages

by Jean Amr

 

The Noses: Christine Nagel

A New Nose for Hermès

Hermès appointed its first in-house nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, a little over ten years ago. Now, as Ellena approaches his seventh decade, he’s preparing to hand over the reins to Christine Nagel, who developed blockbuster Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Jimmy Choo Flash and Guerlain’s Les Elixirs Charnels collection. It’s no ordinary handover. ‘Jean-Claude is giving it to me little by little’, says Nagel, it’s being what Ellena refers to as ‘the spirit of the house’.

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Christine Nagel the new nose for Hermès since summer 2014 wearing her Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso watch….

(Click photo to enlarge).

Ellena personally chose Nagel as his apprentice, and she’ll take over in a few months or a few years, whenever the two of them decide that she’s ready. For now, she’s slowly and meticulously soaking up that aforementioned spirit. ‘She’s watching the person in charge of fashion, silk, jewelry, talking to all of the people who make Hermès, because the brand is its artists and craftsmen,” says Ellena. “She has to see everyone put a lot of energy and work into the details, the small details are so important.”

Not surprisingly, Nagel, who’s always wanted to be a nose, is a bit intimidated. ‘There’s so much freedom to take a risk, to have a strong opinion’, says Nagel. ‘It’s very exciting but also very dangerous!’ She does, however, have one leg up on her predecessor: She actually wears perfume and compares her own skin to ‘a playground’.

‘I have a creative preference for compositions characterised by simplicity, which mirrors their philosophy’. ‘Favourite’ notes go in cycles: ‘I’ve phases when I’m deeply into a single type: woody, oriental, green facets. It can turn almost into an obsession, until I have the feeling I’ve found what I’m looking for, and then I move on.’ And is it easier to create for women, or men? ‘Gender in perfume is an everlasting debate. In reality, anyone can wear whatever he or she likes, even if the fragrance is supposedly ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’. There’s no right or wrong…’

fenditheorema

Fendi Theorema

  • 1998 Fendi Theorema
  • 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Nuit
  • 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Rose
  • 1999 Lancôme  Mille Et Une Roses
  • 2000 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Femme
  • 2001 Chopard Madness
  • 2001 Cartier Eau de Cartier
  • 2002 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Man
  • 2002 Nina Ricci Mémoire L’Homme

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Nina Ricci Mémoire d’Homme

  • 2003 Guerlain With Love
  • 2003 Morgan de Toi Morgan de Toi Femme
  • 2003 Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian)
  • 2004 Thierry Mugler B.Men
  • 2005 Thierry Mugler Angel Garden of Stars – The Lily Angel
  • 2005 Christian Dior Miss Dior Chérie
  • 2006 Cartier Délices de Cartier
  • 2006 Roberto Verino Mellow
  • 2007 Jo Malone London Rain Collection, White Jasmin & Mint
  • 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Oriental Brûlant
  • 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Gourmand Coquin
  • 2008 Lalique Lalique White

Lalique  White

Lalique White

  • 2008 Thierry Mugler A.Men Pure Coffee
  • 2008 Thierry Mugler Miroir, Miroir: Miroir des Envies / Mirror of Desires (with Louise Turner)
  • 2008 John Galliano by John Galliano (with Aurélien Guichard)
  • 2009 Lalique Encre Noire Pour Elle
  • 2009 Lancome Hypnôse Senses
  • 2009 Lolita Lempicka Si Lolita
  • 2009 Azzaro Travelling
  • 2009 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection Boisé Torride
  • 2010 Jo Malone English pear & Freesi
  • 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Femme
  • 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Homme
  • 2010 Emilio Pucci Miss Pucci (with François Demachy)
  • Pierre Cardin Signé Cardin for Him
  • 2011 Lalique Hommage a L’Homme
  • 2013 Jimmy Choo Flash

 

by Jean Amr

The Noses

We all have a nose.  But some ‘noses’ are very special indeed: that’s industry-speak for perfumer. In reality, being a ‘nose’ is a challenging job that takes up to seven years of study – and (mostly) qualifications in Chemistry…

Francis Kurkdjian Noses GIF

Francis Kurkdijan (Click photo to enlarge).

I’m always fascinated by noses.  And by the ‘Creative Directors’ and ‘evaluators’ who work in this field, too: almost ‘go-betweens’ between brands and fashion designers, and those noses, a little-known, but most important role.

Aime Guerlain Noses

Aimé Guerlain (Click photo to enlarge)

Olivier Polge Nose

Oliver Polge (Click photo to enlarge).

These men and (increasingly) women, have the talent and skills to whisk us through time and space – bringing back memories of people and places we’ve known and loved.  Through their artistry, we can feel more romantic, more powerful, more beautiful, more creative…

Jean Claude Ellena

Jean-Claude Ellena (Click photo to enlarge).

François Demachy Dior Noses

François Demachy

Noses Christine Nagel

Christine Nagel (Click photo to enlarge).

Thierry Wasser

Thierry Wasser

Jean-Francois Latty Noses Teo Cabanel

Jean-François Latty (Click photo to enlarge)

I believe their talents should be recognised and celebrated – just as composers, artists and (more recently) chefs are acknowledged for their gifts, and the enormous pleasure they bring us.  Until lately, almost all perfumers worked behind the scenes, anonymously.  Now, noses are emerging from their laboratories, starting to talk about their creations, and what goes into them….

 

Starting soon……. here on Yakymour: The Noses!

by Jean Amr

Jo Malone’s light-as-air fragrances for Spring

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After an impressive collection that gave us a lesson in British history, Jo Malone now brings us a new range that’s inspired by the magic of spring. Titled Blue Skies & Blossoms the three piece collection is playful and carefree; a tribute to the blossoms that herald the arrival of the spring season namely Sakura Cherry Blossom, Osmanthus Blossom and Plum Blossom.

Jo Malone Sakura Cherry Blossom

Created by Christine Nagel, this scent is about the airiness of the season featuring layers of cherry blossom with notes of rose and sparkling bergamot.

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom

This exotic fragrance composed by Marie Salamagne, features osmanthus blossom and petitgrain as well as peach and orange flower over base notes of cashmere wood.

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Crafted by Fabrice Pellegrin, this sunny scent features yellow plum and white musk with a heart of plum blossom.

The Jo Malone Blue Skies & Blossems fragances are available as Eau de Colognes, the fragrances are priced at £86 for a 100 ml bottle.

Karl Lagerfeld reveals details of upcoming fragrances

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Yakymour previously highlighted that Karl Lagerfeld had far more up his sleeve than fashion design, when we reported that the creative genius is set to release perfumes for both men and women in March. Now we can reveal the advertising campaign as well as details of the fragrances themselves.

Two of Karl’s favourite models, Kati Neischer and Baptiste Giabiconi, have been used to front the campaign telling a story of desire, irresistible attraction, magnetism, sensuality, between a seductive rock-and-roll duo. A renowned photographer, Karl shot the campaign, which he imagined in black and white, himself.

In the photos, Kati and Baptiste are shown embracing, their torsos bare and bodies becoming one, with Kati clinging to Baptiste with hands wearing studded gloves, exactly like the ones that Karl is never seen without.

I love perfume. I have worked with fragrances in the past and I’m thrilled to be launching new ones again today. I love women’s fragrances and I love men’s fragrances. They make life more beautiful. Perfume is like fashion for the nose…

Karl Lagerfeld

The scents are distinguished by the wake they leave behind, by their bottles, and by the images that embody them; with Karl’s signature being evident in the use only of high-quality raw materials, the use of black and white in the elegance of the design, the modernity of the metal used in the design, the aesthetic of the bottle’s body, and the fragrances’ attractiveness to men and women alike.

Karl is the edgiest designer in fashion and his two new fragrances echo this while conveying sophisticated elegance and classicism with a bold, modern twist.

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Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women is an elegent green floral, the creation of perfumers Christine Nagel and Serge Majoullier. The fragrance thrives on contrasts, opening with a burst of fresh lemon, enhanced by a velvety peach before flourishing into a full bouquet of roses, immaculate magnolias, and plumeria. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women takes a contemporary approach to traditional perfumes (another signature in Karl’s fashions) with the addition of musks and powerful, dark, ambery woody notes in the base.

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Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men is a timeless, ultra modern aromatic, a creation of perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault.  Featuring lavender and mandarin zest enhanced by crispy apple and violet leaves Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men is alluring and sensual. The scent ends with the woody, spicy notes of sandalwood and an amber blend, giving the fragrance a vibrant and elegant feel.

The bottle’s aesthetic is both high-tech and classic. I think now is the right time for it. A touch of high tech and a touch of classic glass for an exquisitely-formed bottle.

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl desired a perfume bottle that was a work of robust, streamlined art. The clear glass used for the women’s eau de parfum and the black glass bottle used for the men’s eau de toilette are both geometrically exact and feature Karl’s name stamped on the side in silver letters. This symmetry is only interrupted by graphic beveling at the base of the bottles. Like the collar of Karl’s favorite shirts, a large metal ring sits beneath the caps, which are engraved with the designer’s iconic silhouette. The etched steel ring is a nod to the brand’s accessories.

 

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Unlike some modern scents Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women and Eau de Toilette for Men both have longevity and a scent that blooms as it warms to your skin, making it one of Yakymours Top 2014 New Launch Recommendations

Both fragrance come in three sizes. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women as 85ml, 45ml and 25ml. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men as 100ml, 50ml and 30ml.

 

Karl Lagerfeld