Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle The First Twenty Years

Written by Frédéric Malle, foreword by Jean-Claude Ellena, and text by Marion Vignal, this volume explores the inspirations and vision of one of the great protagonists of contemporary perfume.

Parfumier Frédéric Malle was born into the world of fragrance; his grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Dior Parfums before passing on its art direction to his daughter. Malle s deep knowledge of scents and his radical vision of perfumes led him to establish Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, a house for perfumers where fragrances are conceived as haute couture creations. This volume marks the twentieth anniversary of Frédéric Malle’s quest for beauty and creative freedom.

Journalist Marion Vignal delves into Malle’s lifelong devotion to perfume, personal history, and myriad inspirations to uncover the evolution of his precise olfactory aesthetics, while imagery of perfume bottles, sketches, advertising campaigns, and photos of boutiques explores his comprehensive vision. Malle offers readers an intimate glimpse into his brand s saga and shares the stories behind four of his most successful scents in graphic-novel form. A necessary addition to the libraries of industry masters, this volume is an invitation to a sensorial journey that will delight perfume lovers everywhere.

About the author

Frédéric Malle is a French parfumier, expert, and publisher. He founded Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle in 2000. Jean-Claude Ellena is a French perfumer and writer. Marion Vignal is the head of design and architecture at the major French magazine L’Express as well as the author of numerous design and lifestyle publications.

 

Published by Rizzoli, ISBN: 978-0-8478-6933-6, in a beautiful 240 page red hardcover – the brand’s signature color, ‘Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle The First Twenty Years’ will be available from October 6, 2020, at selected stores and online. Come into the beautiful worlds of Rizzoli and Frédéric Malle.

 

 

 

 

Hermès reinvented its classic Terre d’Hermès scent

Former perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena of French Maison Hermès was reponsible for the creation of classic scents from the house, like Voyage d’Hermès and of course Terre d’Hermès. On the latter, which he created in 2006, he said the scent was meant to evoke the idea of, ‘Feeling the earth, lying on the ground, gazing at the sky’.

Fast forward to 12 years later, and the house’s new nose, Christine Nagel, has taken on the daunting task of reimagining Terre. Her creation: Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver. Tasked with revisiting a living olfactory heritage she brings a new intensity and vegetal slant to the scent.

How exactly did Nagel approach the task of creating a new version that still reflected the woody and mineral elements of the original? According to Hermès, her role was like that of a ‘watchmaker fascinated by a mysterious movement’. She examined the scent from every angle in order to understand its compexities and intimate mechanics, and then deconstructed it – choosing to reassemble the scent and illuminate certain points of the fragrance.

The key ingredient is vetiver, as the name suggests, but this version is given more roundness and warmth. Nagel also transformed the original note of black pepper to Sichuan pepper – this variety is greener and more citrus, lending an energy to the scent and helping the notes to melt into each other effortlessly. Finally the bergamot orange, picked before it has reached maturity, is part of the new juice, adding a fresh, daring quality to the scent. This transforms the original juice from a woody and mineral fragrance to one that is more woody and vegetal.

 

Hermès Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver is presented in the iconic Hermès glass bottle, and is topped with a warm brown stopper that has the appearance of leather tanned by the sun.

Hermès Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver is still utterly refined, unapologetically masculine and unerringly elegant. And from Hermès we would expect nothing less.

 

 

 

 

Bvlgari celebrates 25 years of Thé Vert

 

Bvlgari Thé Vert, this fresh androgynous scent is back on our radar as the Italian jeweler launches a rage of products to celebrate this milestone year.

It’s hard to believe that Bvlgari’s classic cologne, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, was never intended for public sale. In fact, Bvlgari’s first venture into the world of perfume was a private affair, after the brand decided to gift bottles of master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena’s tea house-inspired scent to the clients of their store in Rome.

I wanted to express the scent of the world I belong to. More than a perfume, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert became a manifesto, echoing a triumphant quest for zen.

Jean-Claude Ellena

As the scent – designed for men and women – grew in popularity among that small circle of friends Bvlgari made the decision to offer it for sale. 25 years later, it’s has become a scent-sational success story, perhaps due to Ellena’s innovative approach to masculine and feminine notes within the fragrance. Ellena took inspiration from famous tea house, Mariage Frères, capturing the aroma of green tea in a fragrance that is without gender.

 

With an olfactory heritage like that, how do you top it after 25 years? Well, perfection has never been a problem for jewellers Bvlgari, who have released the Eau de Cologne in a range of fragrances, bath products and candles dedicated to its range of tea scents – Thé Vert, Thé Blanc, Thé Rouge and Thé Bleu. And as a special treat, they have partnered with Mariage Frères to create Bvlgari’s exclusive Thé Vert Précieux Tea Collection.

Mariage Frères summarised it best: “The tea and the fragrance, through their noble aromas, seize the beauty of a moment. That of a stroll in a tea garden in the morning dew, the witness of the emerging blossoming of jasmines, tinted with the satin and sparkling notes of bergamot”.

 

 

 

 

Hermès Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine

This years May day celebrations welcome Hermès’s new fragrance, an ode to the Lily of the Valley, ‘Muguet Porcelaine’, as a new member of the Hermessence fragrance family.

Considered a lucky charm, the French greet one another with a simple sprig or small bunch of the Lily of the Valley. A tradition passed down from King Charles IX who presented the ladies of his court with these flowers, every year on May 1. Lily of the Valley has been named the ‘mute flower’ by perfume experts, its fragrance evading all attempts to capture. Jean-Claude Ellena, the nose of Hermès, has challenged scent in this way for the first time.

The fragrance is fresh and light, a true representation of the spring months. Muguet Porcelaine is the thirteenth fragrance in the Hermessence collection, as if created by the air of spring, the clear, simplicity of the bottle is brought to life by a vibrant green.

The difficulty of producing a viable lily of the valley note becomes all the more significant in light of the fact that Ellena chose to make it the focus of his final effort. And this, in turn, adds poignancy to the perfume’s inclusion in the Hermessence collection, which has, from its beginning, been Ellena’s exclusive playground for technical and artistic exploration. Hermès Muguet Porcelaine comes to us as the final gift in a career that has marked countless enviable achievements. But it’s also the conclusive Hermès composition from an admirer and student of Edmond Roudniska,  who created not only the very first scent for Hermès (the sweaty-chested Eau D’Hermès from 1951) but also what is widely considered to be the most heart-breaking lily of the valley perfume of all time, Christian Dior’s Diorissimo (1956). You can see how all these layers and connections tie themselves up in increasingly heavy knots.

I wanted to snatch the fragrance of these flowers from the dawn sky, together with that of the foliage that envelopes them. And then in a cerebral way, I worked on the coolness of the aura, the delicacy of its opalescence and the ethereal nature of its existence.

Jean-Claude Ellena

As an attempt to create a 21st century lily of the valley, Muguet Porcelaine is brave, beautiful and not entirely successful. Presumably in an effort to create an unisex fragrance and to work his way around today’s anti-allergen restrictions, Ellena has decided to create his lily with the help of a melon-like lychee note. This serves to make the muguet not, as the perfume’s name would suggest, more fragile, but more aqueous and perhaps even more insistent. It can’t be denied that the fruity aspect is incongruous, but even while it disappoints with its lack of realism, it impresses with its sheer chutzpah. You can almost picture Ellena in his lab, trying to formulate an epilogue to an illustrious career, cursing the regulations, refusing to be defeated. That determination, the bloody, minded pursuit of a hopeless cause, is what lends the scent much of its beauty. Give it a try!

Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine Eau de Toilette for women and men is available now.

Jean Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose

Jean-Claude Ellena is believing that composing a scent is an art form that requires all 5 senses (Click photo to enlarge).

Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive business. After all, if you create a truly unique and successful scent, the whole world wants to copy it. So, what is the day to day life like for a nose? How is a new scent actually created? And how do you translate it into a perfume that smells nice on your skin? This book takes you on a journey in the life of one of the world’s most important perfumers Jean Claude Ellena, mastermind of many Hermès fragrances.

Jean Claude Ellena, The Diary of a Nose’ (picture by Rebecca, La Touch de Beauté) (Click photo to enlarge)

The French bestseller The Diary of a Nose is the story behind the creation of a perfume, from the head perfumer at Hermès. Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive endeavour. What is day to day life like for a perfume maker? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a smell on the skin?

For one year, Jean-Claude Ellena kept a diary of his life as ‘parfumeur exclusif’ (‘le nez’ or ‘the nose’) for Hermès, and the result is this fascinating book in which he offers the reader a rare glimpse into the secrets of the perfume business and with it a peek into his mind and life. Believing that creating a scent is like creating a work of art, and describing himself as a writer using ‘olfactory colours’, he explains how all of the five senses come into play when creating a perfume. He also reveals how inspiration can come from a market stall, a landscape, or even the movement of calligraphy, and concludes this charming, perceptive diary with recipes for natural fragrances, each made up of three synthetic ingredients, to create the illusion of smells like freesia, orange blossom, grapefruit, pear, chocolate, cashew and cotton candy. This is the story of a quest to capture what is most elusive. Jean-Claude Ellena offer readers a rare insight into the secrets of his business, his art, and his life as one of the world’s most important and admired perfumers.

The book is not new, it came out in French five years ago. The English translation of the American edition 3 years. Hermès perfumes are timeless, like this book is timeless. A great present for those who love perfumes, their secrets, and everything around it….

Even if you don’t like the Hermès perfumes. You have to admit: The man is a magician, a nose, a parfumuer … His journal reveals in simple words a real secret: the creation of perfumes. Day by day, every emotion, every encounter, every precious moment is preserved. Here, everything is customary but nothing is ordinary, for this is where the magic happens. More than a chemist or composer, I’d call Ellena a poet.

Particular Books (August 28, 2012)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 1846145597

ISBN-13:  978-1846145599

by Jean Amr

Hermessence Épice Marine

“Generous expressions of simple ingredients” is how Hermès describes the approach to its unisex line of fragrances Hermessence – the latest offering of which is an intriguing blend for ‘modern pirates’ of the sea, Épice Marine.

The creater of this fantastically spicy, yet fresh, scent is Jean-Claude Ellena, the in-house perfumer of Hermès, and Olivier Roellinger, the French chef. Roellinger has earned the nickname ‘le cuisinier corsair’ for his skill in incorporating intricate spice blends, inspired by the spice trade that once passed through the ports of his native Brittany. Together, they represent a formidable fragrance force.

 

 

 

Talking about their latest creation, Ellena laughs, “Olivier wanted the scent of mist! He said fog smelt to him like hawthorn blossom and buckwheat porridge; he talked about the mineral taste of wet pebbles, the smell of the rain on the sea, shamrock, peat and wet sand. So I tried to translate that into perfume”, And in our opinion, they did just that, and it reeks of class.

Épice Marine is the newest fragrance in the boutique collection of 11 Hermessence fragrances, available exclusively at Hermès boutiques worldwide.

 

 

 

Manly Hermès Equipage Géranium

As part of the Collection Les Classiques, Hermès has launched a new interpretation of their classic masculine fragrance Equipage, that was created by Guy Robert way back in 1970. Modern day perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena has now created this new perfume Equipage Geranium.

Hermès Equipage Géranium (Click photo to enlarge).

This manly and aromatic fragrance contains spicy accords and geranium, a hint of rose and mint to soften it just a bit and a dash of sandalwood that adds an elegant and sensual side to the composition. With the classic aroma of Guy Robert and a twist added to it by their new perfumer, Hermès hopes to have these bottles of Equipage flying off the shelves.

Hermès Equipage Geranium, is available from fall 2015, and is available as 100 ml Eau de Toilette.

by Jean Amr

Hermès’ First-Ever Parfumerie To Open In New York

Hermès, their first perfume store which is set to open its doors in August 2015

Hermès created its first line of home fragrances and debuted the art of scenting interiors with everything from candles to origami horses. While perfume has been an integral part of Hermes history since the 1930s, the French luxury house has plans to open Hermes’ first parfumerie in New York’s Financial District.

Brookfield Place, New York (photo by Jonathan Baskin) (Click photo to enlarge)

The flagship will debut with a dedicated collection of its beauty offerings at Brookfield Place, the new luxury-shopping destination. Constructed by the store’s designer Denis Montel, the 1,000-square-foot space offers a domestic feel and features neutral tones of concrete, marble and leather and touches of fine woods throughout.

Brooklyn-based artist Daniel Gordon adds to the multisensory experience by creating verdant projections at the store, which simulate the illusion of a ‘concrete jungle’ replete with plants, trees and flowers.

The soon-to-be-open store showcases the brand’s entire library of perfumes and ancillaries. The popular Le Bain bath, body and hair-care line, as well as Le Parfum de La Maison are displayed alongside chairs, sofas and benches fabricated by French designer Ramy Fischler.

French perfumier Céline Ellena, the daughter of their in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, has also devised a new candle for the opening. Called “The Shop Around the Corner,” the fragrance is dedicated to New York and will be available only at the Hermès parfumerie. She spoke about her inspiration and mentioned that in New York “everything moves really fast, but sometimes, suddenly, time stops, and there’s the fragrance of a flower shop.” She added that she was inspired by the smell of curbside bodegas that provide Manhattanites with coffee, newspapers and the occasional bouquet of lilies.

Hermès Parfumerie, Brookfield Place, 225 Liberty St., NYC

by Jean Amr

via the Wall Street Journal

Hermès Le Parfum de la Maison Reverie Collection by Celine Ellena

Céline Ellena and Guillaume Bardet (Click photo to enlarge).

Ohh.. I Lòve Hermès! The French brand has released its debut collection of scents designed for the home by Céline Ellena and presented in a stunning selection of objets d’art by Guillaume Bardet.

The new Hermès home fragrance collection comprises five perfumes, with each fragrance bearing its own story and five colors: Des Pas sur la Neige (taupe), Temps de Pluie (celadon), Fenêtre Ouverte (lagoon), Champ Libre (sulphur) and A Cheval ! (pumpkin).

Part of Hermès home fragrance collection (Click photo to enlarge)

There are three families of perfumed objects designed by Bardet that carry the scents: a paper origami horse, a ceramic pebble and a candle bowl (available in a further choice of three sizes). The collection was mixed by Céline Ellena, daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena, the head of fragrance at Hermès. The younger Ellena has previously produced fragrances for L’Artisan Perfumeur and The Different Company.

Born in Rouen, Bardet trained at the École nationale supérieure des Arts décoratifs and has worked with some of the biggest names in design. His latest project, entitled ‘L’Usage des jours,’ comprises 365 ceramic objects created in the course of one year.

The collection will be available at Hermès stores and other select stockists. Prices range from €62 for a set of four horses to €350 for a 1,100g candle.

by Jean Amr

The Noses: Christine Nagel

A New Nose for Hermès

Hermès appointed its first in-house nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, a little over ten years ago. Now, as Ellena approaches his seventh decade, he’s preparing to hand over the reins to Christine Nagel, who developed blockbuster Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), Jimmy Choo Flash and Guerlain’s Les Elixirs Charnels collection. It’s no ordinary handover. ‘Jean-Claude is giving it to me little by little’, says Nagel, it’s being what Ellena refers to as ‘the spirit of the house’.

Christine Nagel the new nose for Hermès since summer 2014 wearing her Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso watch….

(Click photo to enlarge).

Ellena personally chose Nagel as his apprentice, and she’ll take over in a few months or a few years, whenever the two of them decide that she’s ready. For now, she’s slowly and meticulously soaking up that aforementioned spirit. ‘She’s watching the person in charge of fashion, silk, jewelry, talking to all of the people who make Hermès, because the brand is its artists and craftsmen,” says Ellena. “She has to see everyone put a lot of energy and work into the details, the small details are so important.”

Not surprisingly, Nagel, who’s always wanted to be a nose, is a bit intimidated. ‘There’s so much freedom to take a risk, to have a strong opinion’, says Nagel. ‘It’s very exciting but also very dangerous!’ She does, however, have one leg up on her predecessor: She actually wears perfume and compares her own skin to ‘a playground’.

‘I have a creative preference for compositions characterised by simplicity, which mirrors their philosophy’. ‘Favourite’ notes go in cycles: ‘I’ve phases when I’m deeply into a single type: woody, oriental, green facets. It can turn almost into an obsession, until I have the feeling I’ve found what I’m looking for, and then I move on.’ And is it easier to create for women, or men? ‘Gender in perfume is an everlasting debate. In reality, anyone can wear whatever he or she likes, even if the fragrance is supposedly ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’. There’s no right or wrong…’

Fendi Theorema

• 1998 Fendi Theorema
• 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Nuit
• 1999 Lancôme  2000 Et Une Rose
• 1999 Lancôme  Mille Et Une Roses
• 2000 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Femme
• 2001 Chopard Madness
• 2001 Cartier Eau de Cartier
• 2002 Lagerfeld Lagerfeld Man
• 2002 Nina Ricci Mémoire L’Homme

Nina Ricci Mémoire d’Homme

• 2003 Guerlain With Love
• 2003 Morgan de Toi Morgan de Toi Femme
• 2003 Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian)
• 2004 Thierry Mugler B.Men
• 2005 Thierry Mugler Angel Garden of Stars – The Lily Angel
• 2005 Christian Dior Miss Dior Chérie
• 2006 Cartier Délices de Cartier
• 2006 Roberto Verino Mellow
• 2007 Jo Malone London Rain Collection, White Jasmin & Mint
• 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Oriental Brûlant
• 2008 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection – Gourmand Coquin
• 2008 Lalique Lalique White

Lalique White

• 2008 Thierry Mugler A.Men Pure Coffee
• 2008 Thierry Mugler Miroir, Miroir: Miroir des Envies / Mirror of Desires (with Louise Turner)
• 2008 John Galliano by John Galliano (with Aurélien Guichard)
• 2009 Lalique Encre Noire Pour Elle
• 2009 Lancome Hypnôse Senses
• 2009 Lolita Lempicka Si Lolita
• 2009 Azzaro Travelling
• 2009 Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels collection Boisé Torride
• 2010 Jo Malone English pear & Freesi
• 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Femme
• 2010 Kenzo Unce Upon A Time Pour Homme
• 2010 Emilio Pucci Miss Pucci (with François Demachy)
• Pierre Cardin Signé Cardin for Him
• 2011 Lalique Hommage a L’Homme
• 2013 Jimmy Choo Flash

 

by Jean Amr