Get in the Mood

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Since its founding in 1830, French Maison Christofle has cultivated its unique know-how, modernizing its techniques and execution to keep up with the times. Whether they are creations by designers or artists, re-editions and historic reproductions or custom commissions, exceptional pieces by Christofle are made in its fine silver workshop, which has been integrated into the company’s manufacturing facility in Yainville, Normandy.

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For the first time in Christofle’s history, the brand has collaborated with a fashion brand. Karl Lagerfeld is a designer with a proven track record for having a golden touch. Always up for a collaboration and always surprising, ranging from H&M’s first luxury collaboration to Diet Coke, the German designer is revealed to have a very unusual collaboration in the works. Karl Lagerfeld sets his eyes on Christofle – the Parisian silversmith, devoted to making exceptional and sophisticated pieces for decorating the home. The limited edition Karl Lagerfeld Christofle Mood – though set in silverware, is second to no gold. The designs have also been exquisitely photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

The egg-shaped Mood is engraved with the Christofle coat of arms on one side and Karl Lagerfeld’s signature on the other, and it will be numbered at the bottom. The Mood opens to reveal a 24-piece set of silver-plated flatware, and each piece is stamped with the Karl Lagerfeld silhouette logo.

Christofle’s iconic egg from the Mood cutlery collection, gets transformed by the designer inspired by Art Deco’s art and architectures. Karl Lagerfeld is no stranger to the world or Art Deco, having collected multiple pieces from the art period in his own houses, only to sell it off in 2003 to ‘get with the times’. Luckily we are in the age of ‘The Big Flat Now’, where history and modernity, digital and the real are all interchangeable and interlinked. Careers too, with designers being expected to be photographers and DJs too. And who else better to front the current age than superstar designer Karl Lagerfeld.

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00066299_mood_argent_ouvert_fond_blanc_3200-1600_1.jpgWith a case in mirror polished stainless steel, just 1,000 exclusive pieces are available worldwide, each Mood is numbered and signed, and will be delivered with its certificate.

Karl Lagerfeld melds his longtime influence from Art Deco, and the modernity of today in his limited edition Mood. Featuring structured graphic lines on the elliptical egg shape, which enhances the contrast of geometry. Available in two exclusive colorways and produced in limited quantities.

000_66_399_mood_noir_ouvert_fond_blanc_3200-1600-e1539595213499.jpgThe sleek black option is crafted from lacquered mirror polished stainless steel, with just 500 pieces produced worldwide.

Set the table Mood with Karl Lagerfeld’s edition that opens to reveal a 24-piece set of silver-plated flatware: 6 Table Forks, 6 Dinner knives, 6 Tablespoons, 6 Coffee spoons, stamped with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature silhouette logo.

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Karl Lagerfeld’s Christofle Mood with mirror polished stainless steel case (1,000 pieces worldwide) is available for €2400, and the black lacquered option, just 500 pieces worldwide, for €3200.

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Pre-orders will open with Paris Fashion Week, September 25 at the Parisian Christofle store on Rue Saint-Honoré and at the Karl Lagerfeld store on Boulevard Saint-Germain.

The Karl Lagerfeld Mood Edition will be available worldwide from October 1, 2018, in Christofle and Karl Lagerfeld boutiques.

 

 

 

 

The Nose: Pascal Gaurin

Pascal Gaurin Nose

Pascal Gaurin was born circa 1970 in France. This French Perfumer works for IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) as Senior Perfumer for the Fine Fragrances division (Click photo to enlarge).

Pascal had no objective reasons to become a perfumer, but chose it thanks to his gift. His fascination with scents was so great that as a child, he literally explored the world with his nose, causing his mother to wonder if he was afraid of being poisoned.

Pascal studied and graduated at ISIPCA in Versailles and a year after that he began to work in IFF, first in Hong Kong, where he enriched not only his olfactory palette, but also gained a deep understanding of the art, customs and olfactory preferences of people in Asia. Then, in 1997, Pascal was offered the chance to work in IFF, New York, the city of his dreams. The city where everything happens, and where all smells come together.

Most inspired by very dense essences, Pascal Gaurin is fond of resins, deep woods and anything that can express extreme sensuality. His taste for darkness probably originates from his grandparents’ home in Creuse, France. ‘The forests are very dark there, it always feels like it’s night time, you can feel the vapors of humus, mushrooms, leaves and bark. . . I love frontal materials, those you need to tame like sculptor does stone, by keeping the volume but making it flow’. This is where he gets his affinity for cistus, patchouli, Cashmeran and vanilla, ingredients he qualifies as erotic.”

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Other passions of Pascal, which help him in his work, are music and film. The palette of fragrances created by Pascal Gaurin is wide indeed:

  • 2000 Givenchy ‘Oblique Play’ (with Jean-Claude Delville)
  • 2002 Calvin Klein ‘Crave’ (with Yves Cassar and Jean-Marc Chaillan)
  • 2002 Liz Clairborne ‘Bora Bora’ (with Oliver Polge)
  • 2003 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Purple Orchid’ (with Sophia Grojsman)
  • 2004 Curve ‘Crush Men’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan)
  • 2004 Karl Lagerfeld ‘Liquid Karl’ (with Bruno Jovanovic and Sandrine Malin)
  • 2004 Liz Clairborne ‘Realities’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2005 Liz Clairborne ‘Liz’ (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2006 Banana Republic ‘Rosewood’
  • 2006 Curve Chill Men (with Jean-Marc Chaillan, Laurent le Guernec, Loc Dong)
  • 2007 Christian Lacroix ‘Noir’

Christian Lacroix Nuit

Christian Lacroix ‘Nuit’ (Click photo to enlarge).

  • 2007 Tom Ford ‘Black Violet’ (with Clement Gavarry)
  • 2007 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Summer’ (with Clement Gavarry)
  • 2008 Patrick Dempsey ‘Unscripted’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Emanuelle Ungaro, ‘U by Ungaro for Him’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Calvin Klein ‘Eternity Summer’ (with Yves Cassar)
  • 2008 Jessica Simpson ‘Fancy Love’ (with Celine Barel, Clement Gavarry, Yves Cassar)
  • 2009 Michael Kors ‘Very Hollywood’  (with Laurent le Guernec)
  • 2009 Valentino ‘Valentino’
  • 2011 Christian Lacroix ‘Nuit for Him’
  • 2012 Vera Wang ‘Lovestruck Floral Rush’
  • 2013 Diesel ‘Loverdose Tattoo’ (with Anne Flipo)
  • 2014 Diesel ‘Loverdose Tattoo EDT’ (with Anne Flipo)
  • 2015 Diana Vreeland ‘Daringly Different’
  • 2015 Oscar de La Renta ‘Extraordinary’ (with Bruno Jovanovic)

Oscar de La Renta Eau de Parfum EXTRAORDINARY

Oscar de La Renta ‘Extraordinary’ (Click photo to enlarge).

by Jean Amr

Elizabeth Arden

Florence Nightingale Graham (December 31, 1878 – October 18, 1966), who went by the business name Elizabeth Arden was born in 1878 in Woodbridge, Ontario, Canada. Her parents had emigrated to Canada from Cornwall, United Kingdom, in the 1870s. Her father, William Graham, was Scottish and her mother, Susan, was Cornish and had arranged for a wealthy aunt in Cornwall to pay for her children’s education. Arden dropped out of nursing school in Toronto.

She then joined her elder brother in Manhattan, New York, working briefly as a  bookkeeper for the E.R. Squibb Pharmaceuticals Company. She then worked, again briefly, for Eleanor Adair, an early beauty culturist, as a ‘treatment girl’. While there, Arden spent hours in their lab, learning about skincare.

Florence Nightingale Graham, who went by the business name Elizabeth Arden, was became a businesswoman who founded what is now Elizabeth Arden, Inc., and built a cosmetics empire in the United States. At the peak of her career, she was one of the wealthiest and well know women in the world!

Elizabeth Arden

Elizabeth Arden: “every woman has the right to be beautiful.” With that philosophy, she launched advertising campaigns to help normalize the use of makeup across the country.

In 1909 Arden formed a partnership with Elizabeth Hubbard, another culturist. When the partnership dissolved, she coined the business name ‘Elizabeth Arden’ from her former partner and from ‘Tenneyson’s poem ‘Enoch Arden’. With a $6,000 loan from her brother, she then used the shop space to open her first salon on 5th Avenue.

In 1912 Arden traveled to France to learn beauty and facial massage techniques used in the Paris beauty salons.She returned with a collection of rouges (blushers) and tinted powders she had created. Arden was, in 1914, the first to introduce modern eye makeup to North America after her formal training in Paris.

In 1915 Elizabeth Arden married Thomas j. Lewis, an American Banker. By this marriage, she was automatically a naturalized American citizen. In the same year started to operate and Arden international she opened salons around the world, all with a red door, her trademark. Arden collaborated with A. Fabian Swanson, a chemist, to create a ‘fluffy’ face cream. The success of the cream, Venetian Cream Amoretta, and corresponding lotion, Arden Skin Tonic, led to a long-lasting business relationship. This revolutionized cosmetics, bringing a scientific approach to formulations.

Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream re edition

Elizabeth Arden’s most famous, ’till today: Eight Hour cream. Here in a new re-edition .

And by the 1930s, yes, in the middle of the Great Depression, her company was bringing in roughly $4 million a year! In 1934, she opened the Maine Chance residential spa in Rome, Maine, the first destination beauty spa in the United States.It operated until 1970. Ardens passion in her work led in 1934 to a divorce. A second marriage to a Russian Prince lasted only thirteen months.

Elizabeth Arden 1930's

Elizabeth Arden, 1930’s. By the end of the 1930s it was said; ‘There are only three American names that are known in every corner of the globe: Singer sewing machines, Coca Cola, and Elizabeth Arden’.

1935 saw the launch of Blue Grass fragrance. It quickly became one of the most successful Elizabeth Arden scents.

Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass

Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass

Around 1940 Arden launged ‘White Orchid’ perfume. Other makeup innovations included creating foundations that matched a person’s skin tone; creating the idea of the “Total Look” in which lip, cheek, and fingernail colors matched or coordinated; and the first to make a cosmetics commercial shown in movie houses. During the second World War, Elizabeth Arden saw that market changed.  She saw the changing needs of the American woman entering the work force. She showed women how to apply makeup and dress appropriately for careers outside the home. She developed and brought a lipstick on the market in the ‘Montezuma Red’ color, a color that is applied at the red in the uniforms of the female soldiers.

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Elizabeth Arden Pink Violet, 1950’s (Click photo to enlarge).

Marilyn Monroe on the way to shopping at Elizabeth Arden Salon

Marilyn Monroe on the way to shopping at Elizabeth Arden Salon (Click photo to enlarge).

In the years Elizabeth Arden has many famous clients like Marilyn Monroe, the Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III, Nina Dyer Aga Khan and Martine Carole. Elizabeth Arden wasn’t only famous for her salons and Spa’s. She offerd a lot more! For (vèry) special clients, she offered treatments at home. She also sended ‘her’ hairdressers when they where needed….

Signed to Roger Flor, 1er coiffeur Elizabeth Arden, 1959 (29 x 39 cm)HH Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan, signed for Roger Flor 1er Coiffeur Elizabeth Arden, 1959 (photo signed by Sam Levine)(Privat Collection) (Click photo to enlarge).

Nina Dyer Aga Khan Elizabeth Arden

Nina Sheila Dyer Aga Khan signed for Roger Flor 1er Coiffeur Elizabeth Arden (photo signed by Tony Armstrong John, Pimlico Road studio )(Privat Collection) (Click photo to enlarge).

Elizabeth Arden circa 1960

Elizabeth Arden, circa 1960 (Click photo to enlarge).

In recognition of her contribution to the cosmetics industry, she was awarded the ‘Lègion d’Honneur by the French government in 1962. Later in her life, Arden was one of the first women to appear on the cover of Time magazine, and one of her horses won the Kentucky Derby (can you imagine the parties she must have thrown?!), but it’s undeniable that the greatest accomplishment of her lifetime was her legacy of breaking barriers and making the world a more awesome place.

Arden died at Lenox Hill Hospital in Manhattan in 1966; she was interred in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Sleepy Hollow, New York, under the name Elizabeth N. Graham. Her company was at that time worth between $35 and $45 million, and they possessed more than a hundred beauty salons all over the world.

Elizabeth Arden is now still a reputable name, but had some different owners. Acquired by Eli Lilly & Co in 1971; bought by Faberge in 1987, merged into Unilever in 1989. Later the Company split into two smaller companies: Elizabeth Arden and Parfums International. The Elizabeth Arden side, looked after all of the Arden cosmetics and fragrances, while Parfums International created fragrances for Nino Cerruti, Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld and Chloe.

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Capsules

Elizabeth Arden’s bestseller and Holy Grail: Ceramide Capsules. It moists and restores. Perfect to take with you on holydays! Unisex and easy to use: One capsule for the whole face, neck, and whats left… for the back of your hands! (Click photo to enlarge).

On 31st October 2000, Unilever sold it’s Arden business, to US company, FFI Fragrances for $225 million, as part of Unilever’s program to shed operations that ‘don’t meet the company’s strategic needs’.

FFI is based in Miami Lakes, produce fragrances by Bogart and Halston. On completion of sale, FFI decided to trade under the Arden name., included in the sale was the Elizabeth Taylor brands of Passion and White Diamonds. Unilever kept control of the Parfums International brands (Cerruti, Valentino, Lagerfeld and Chloe). The current company name is still Elizabeth Arden.

In 2002, Catherine Zeta-Jones became Elizabeth Arden’s ‘face’ and corporate spokesperson. Catherine said; “I have read masses about Elizabeth Arden. She was a visionary, and I am proud to be a part of the company she created,” and; “As Miss Arden said, ‘to be beautiful and natural is the birthright of every woman,’ and I wholeheartedly agree with her philosophy, and dare I say, conviction to her dream.”

In 2003, Elizabeth Arden acquired the license for Gant USA fragrances from Romella.

In 2003, Elizabeth Arden Graham was posthumously inducted into the Canadian Horse Racing Hall of Fame.

After Ardens death the company founded itself partly, next to their skincare and makeup, on the development of perfumes. With classics like ‘White Orchid’, ‘On Dit’ and ‘Blue Grass’, a new Elizabeth Arden perfume was marketed under the name ‘Red Door’, named after her famous trademark (all her salons were equipped with a red front door). Furthermore, the company brought perfumes out for celebrities as Elizabeth Yaylor, Hilary Duff, Britney Spears and Mariah Carey.

Elizabeth Arden

Elizabeth Arden actif on African market (Click photo to enlarge).

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Elizabeth Arden Flawless Future Ceramid Moisture Cream Complex, Serum and Eye Gel (Click photo to enlarge).

Today, the company she founded brings in over a billion in sales and gives generously to causes including New York City’s public schools, Save the Children, and the Look Good…Feel Better campaign, which helps boost the morale of cancer patients.

by Jean Amr

Mademoiselle Coco Privé

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No true Chanel fan should miss this. Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel will come to life across three floors of London’s prime exhibition spot, the Saatchi Gallery, off King’s Road.

A colourful display of her journey through the placid and turbulent waves of fashion across the years will be showcased from October 13 to November 1, 2015 – free of charge. The exhibition will be named Mademoiselle Privé, name of the fashion legend’s workshop in Paris.

 

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This is not the first time she is honoured at the Saatchi Gallery, but it is the first time that her work, a re-edition of the high jewellery Bijoux de Diamants collection, Chanel No.5, and exclusive pieces designed exclusively by Karl Lagerfeld for the exhibition. The Bijoux de Diamants collection was designed by Coco in 1932, her first high jewellery collection designed by herself, inspired by the grey shades of fate during the Great Depression.

She wanted to ‘cover women with constellations’. Eighty years later, the French fashion house reinvented this collection, featuring 80 exquisite pieces. Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and the current creative director of Saatchi Gallery, will be presenting Chanel through his eyes……

 

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Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld Book Launched At Cannes Festival, 2015

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Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld Book (Click photo to enlarge)

‘Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld’ book by Karl Lagerfeld looks back at his tenure as creative director of the Roman furrier, which he joined in 1965. The distinctive book celebrates the designer’s 50-year collaboration, billed as the longest relationship in history between a designer and a fashion brand.

It’s a wooden box full of goodies that comprises of scrapbook with more than 200 sketches of directional Fendi looks done by the designer, a Q&A session and a USB stick with MP4 files that shows Lagerfeld sketching his memories live as he speaks.

During the 68th annual Cannes Film Festival, CEO Pietro Beccari and womenswear creative director Karl Lagerfeld hosted a special presentation of the ‘Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld’ book at the Plage Royale. Following the launch in French Riviera, Fendi reopened its newly renovated boutique at the Croisette in Cannes, which has been redesigned in lighter colors. The shop also highlights the brand’s craftsmanship as well as fast growing ready-to-wear collection. The exclusive launch party which took place on the shores of Cote d’Azure was attended by Fendi-clad celebrity guests like Lily Donaldson, Lindsey Wixson and Kendall Jenner.

A real must have! Published by Steidl, Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld book set will be available at Fendi boutiques and high-end bookstores worldwide from July for a little over $100.

by Jean Amr

Karl Lagerfeld reveals details of upcoming fragrances

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Yakymour previously highlighted that Karl Lagerfeld had far more up his sleeve than fashion design, when we reported that the creative genius is set to release perfumes for both men and women in March. Now we can reveal the advertising campaign as well as details of the fragrances themselves.

Two of Karl’s favourite models, Kati Neischer and Baptiste Giabiconi, have been used to front the campaign telling a story of desire, irresistible attraction, magnetism, sensuality, between a seductive rock-and-roll duo. A renowned photographer, Karl shot the campaign, which he imagined in black and white, himself.

In the photos, Kati and Baptiste are shown embracing, their torsos bare and bodies becoming one, with Kati clinging to Baptiste with hands wearing studded gloves, exactly like the ones that Karl is never seen without.

I love perfume. I have worked with fragrances in the past and I’m thrilled to be launching new ones again today. I love women’s fragrances and I love men’s fragrances. They make life more beautiful. Perfume is like fashion for the nose…

Karl Lagerfeld

The scents are distinguished by the wake they leave behind, by their bottles, and by the images that embody them; with Karl’s signature being evident in the use only of high-quality raw materials, the use of black and white in the elegance of the design, the modernity of the metal used in the design, the aesthetic of the bottle’s body, and the fragrances’ attractiveness to men and women alike.

Karl is the edgiest designer in fashion and his two new fragrances echo this while conveying sophisticated elegance and classicism with a bold, modern twist.

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Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women is an elegent green floral, the creation of perfumers Christine Nagel and Serge Majoullier. The fragrance thrives on contrasts, opening with a burst of fresh lemon, enhanced by a velvety peach before flourishing into a full bouquet of roses, immaculate magnolias, and plumeria. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women takes a contemporary approach to traditional perfumes (another signature in Karl’s fashions) with the addition of musks and powerful, dark, ambery woody notes in the base.

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Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men is a timeless, ultra modern aromatic, a creation of perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault.  Featuring lavender and mandarin zest enhanced by crispy apple and violet leaves Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men is alluring and sensual. The scent ends with the woody, spicy notes of sandalwood and an amber blend, giving the fragrance a vibrant and elegant feel.

The bottle’s aesthetic is both high-tech and classic. I think now is the right time for it. A touch of high tech and a touch of classic glass for an exquisitely-formed bottle.

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl desired a perfume bottle that was a work of robust, streamlined art. The clear glass used for the women’s eau de parfum and the black glass bottle used for the men’s eau de toilette are both geometrically exact and feature Karl’s name stamped on the side in silver letters. This symmetry is only interrupted by graphic beveling at the base of the bottles. Like the collar of Karl’s favorite shirts, a large metal ring sits beneath the caps, which are engraved with the designer’s iconic silhouette. The etched steel ring is a nod to the brand’s accessories.

 

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Unlike some modern scents Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women and Eau de Toilette for Men both have longevity and a scent that blooms as it warms to your skin, making it one of Yakymours Top 2014 New Launch Recommendations

Both fragrance come in three sizes. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Parfum for Women as 85ml, 45ml and 25ml. Karl Lagerfeld Eau de Toilette for Men as 100ml, 50ml and 30ml.

 

Karl Lagerfeld