Tribute to the English spirit: Penhaligon’s Portrait Collection

 

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Penhaligon’s presented their new Portrait Collection. The new line which includes four fragrances with such dramatic names: The Tragedy of Lord George, The Revenge of Lady Blanche, Much Ado About The Duke and The Coveted Duchess Rose is a tribute to the English spirit; between establishment, humour and provocation. In fact… it reveals the secrets of the British aristocracy.

 

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Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George (for men)

Lord George is a wealthy and respected man, the archetypal patriarch. He seems to embody the noblest values of the aristocracy: virtue, respect, loyalty and faithfulness.

 

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Deceptively traditional Lord George. Lord George is a perfect reminder that one should be aware of appearances. He himself maintains that one should never be able to divine what a man is thinking. This ability being, of course, the key to a happy marriage. Honourable, to a tee, his fidelity to King and Country is resolute. His penchant for muttering ‘the flesh is weak’ over the breakfast kippers is entirely without explanation.

  • Top: Brandy
  • Heart: Shaving Soap
  • Base: Tonka Bean

His fragrance reflects his essence; seemingly traditional, yet with hidden secrets. A woody amber fougère from perfumer Alberto Morillas, with rum, tonka bean and ambrox.

 

Penhaligon’s The Revenge of Lady Blanche (for women)

A darling of London Society, and one of the most influential ladies in Britain. Her aloof beauty, mysterious past and blazing passions are scrutinised by all from shop-girls to Royalty. She would do anything to climb the social ladder still further. Her latest scheme is to poison her husband, Lord George, inheriting his wealth and burying his secrets for ever!

 

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Lady Blanche is a picture of devotion, charm – and criminal intentions. A social butterfly with a dangerous bite one might say. Shakespeare did try to warn us ‘hell hath no fury like a woman scorned’. Indeed, a woman does always know. Lady Blanche wishes, oh how she wishes! that she did not. The real crime you see is the inelegance of not having kept all of this where it belongs – in the dark, with the lights off! (Cross her at your peril.)

  • Top: Powdery orris
  • Heart: Narcissus Flower
  • Base: Hyacinth

Her fragrance reflects her very essence. A green floral narcotic, created by perfumer Daphné Bugey. – Charmingly dangerous.

 

Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose (for women)

Daughter of Lady Blanche and Lord George, Rose married a Duke to escape the stifling rigidity of her family and to become the Coveted Duchess Rose. At first, naively romantic, she has now become disillusioned and frustrated in an unsatisfactory marriage.

 

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A fresh, sweet Rose – ready for the picking. Ever since her recent marriage (anything but a bed of roses) our demure Duchess is urgently desirous of desire. Her bosom is aching for release from the corsets of Victorian life, she dreams of nothing but Paradise Regained, again and again. When one’s husband is at the theatre every evening, one does become terribly bored…

  • Top: Mandarin
  • Heart: Rose
  • Base: Musky Wood

Always looking for fun and frivolity (and perhaps love affairs), her fragrance is a not so innocent fresh rose. A woody rose from perfumer Christophe Raynaud.

 

Penhaligon’s Much Ado About The Duke (for men)

Conforming to the expectations of his class, Duke Nelson married the most coveted girl in London: the Duchess Rose. Yet the Duke is eccentric and unusual, his whimsical airs set society tongues wagging. Rumours abound that his marriage is yet to be consummated!

 

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Who could say if it was the evenings spent at the theatre that gave the Duke his ravishing, ravished air. A slight perfume of intrigue engulfs him nevertheless. Exquisitely ubiquitous, a decadent dandy, an utterly charming chap, virulently ambivalent, a thoroughly ambiguous first son-in-law – hearts throb wherever he goes, but not the ones you might think. His wife agrees that the theatre is no place for a Duchess. Sometimes she longs not to be a Duchess…

  • Top: Peppery Rose
  • Heart: Gin
  • Base: Leathery Wood

His perfume is as ambivalent as he is: a floral yet masculine woody fragrance. A spicy woody rose from perfumer Daphné Bugey, with rose, gin and cumin.

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The four Eau de Parfums come in 75ml stylish bottles with gold-plated animal heads as stoppers, priced at £178 ($218).

Arquiste Él & Ella

Perfume has a habit of triggering memories of places, to be sure. Sometimes it can even pull you back to a specific time, too. Carlos Huber the owner and creative director of Arquiste is one who regularly does both. His career in architectural restoration has combined with his passion for fragrance to make sure the brief for his perfumes come from a specific time and place. Up until now those times and places have not been during my lifetime. The newest pair -Él and Ella become the first.

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Carlos Huber grew up on the stories his parents told him of the Acapulco disco Armando’s Le Club. In the early 1970’s Acapulco was the hip destination in Mexico and where the jet set could be found was dancing the night away at Armando’s Le Club. It was a resort version of Studio 54. The only difference here is the party moved from the pool in the daytime on to the dance floor at night. Disco and Acapulco were meant to be together and Armando’s Le Club was its intersection.

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Armando’s was situated on the beach, in the bay. Imagine this pool and a garden and the disco inside with songs like I Feel Love, You Make Me Feel (Mighty Real) and Knock On Wood. This place was where Elizabeth Taylor would go. Bianca Jagger,  Halston, Grace Jones, Sylvester… It was like Studio 54. The same people would be there. So if you would go and be successful flirting with someone, then you would go out to the beach and go skinny dip. That’s a really cool idea.The idea of applying a fragrance in the morning, then you would go to the beach and after that you would go to someone’s house with a pool and have cocktails. After that you put a fresh shirt and you reapply your fragrance to go out dancing at this club. The idea of a fragrance that has been ageing on skin and has macerated. It has been warmed up by the sun, by the euphoria of the night, smoking, drinking… It was also a very liberating time, sexually speaking… “when we were working on the development I told Rodrigo Flores-Roux that I wanted to have this vintage 70’s feeling with a little bit of dirtyness in it”, Carlos Huber said.

armandos-le-clubArmando’s Le Club

Carlos Huber wanted to capture a feminine and a masculine take on this particular setting. He enlisted regular collaborator Rodrigo Flores-Roux to complete this vision. They decided to name these creations Él and Ella (he and she in Spanish). They are each meant to pick up on a part of the experience in 1978 at Armando’s Le Club. Flores-Roux created two distinctly gendered personalities in each of these perfumes.

Arquiste Ella

Ella is the scent of the woman who has finished her sunbathing for the day and has nipped up to her room to slide into a Halston sheath. The neckline plunges as the sheen of perspiration forms droplets which disappear further down. Ella is this woman who stalks the pool deck imperiously only to prowl the dancefloor looking for her equal.

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Ella opens with that scent of clean sweat beaded skin. Sr. Flores-Roux uses angelica root and carrot seed to form this accord. We then follow one of those beads of sweat as it coalesces at the waist. Rose coated with cardamom and honey. This is the scent of seduction as Ella puts out her lure. It all heads into a magnificent animalic chypre base composed of patchouli, vetiver, and civet. The last little bit of dazzle is a cigarette smoke accord which swirls very lightly throughout the base. This is so perfectly balanced to not disrupt the overall mood but to capture a time when smoking was what was hip.

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It’s a sultry night of disco, plunging necklines and champagne-soaked skin. Lights flash and strangers kiss, but it’s her, dancing, that commands the attention. She moves, panther-like, her honeyed skin creating an addictive sweetness and magnetism that only a deep chypre fragrance can deliver. She’s met her match on the dance floor, and it’s her animalic instinct that follows him outside, onto the golden beach, under a silvery moon.

Arquiste Él

Él is the scent of that man who also enters Armando’s Le Club. He is dressed for the evening wearing a Nik-Nik shirt unbuttoned down to his navel. There is gold around his neck, more than one, but not too many. There is also a sheen of perspiration underneath his strong chest hair. He is an Él looking for his Ella and across the dance floor that might be her standing there.

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Él opens with a 1970’s power herbal chord of laurel, clary sage, and rosemary. This is so typical of powerhouse men’s fragrances of the time it is almost the equivalent of ‘I am Man hear me roar’. It would have been so easy to let that beast out. Instead Sr. Flores-Roux works at making this a man of intellect as he uses cinnamon leaves to twist that herbal opening into something fantastically satisfying. Cinnamon leaf is an ingredient almost used as an afterthought. Not here. Sr. Flores-Roux uses it as a harness to keep the rampaging herbs from being too strident. It has to be done because the same cardamom and honey that we met in Ella are also here. This is the heart beating underneath the hirsute chest and gold chains. For Él, Sr. Flores-Roux fashions an animalic fougere base. Vetiver and patchouli are transformed with a double dose of animalic as castoreum and civet provide the fur. Oakmoss provides the toothy smile. It is that moment when Él sees Ella and passion takes over the night as the music and lights swirl around them.

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Nighttime at Acapulco’s sultriest disco. Revelry on the dance floor. In the heat of the moment, he smiles coyly and motions to the beach outside, hinting at a midnight swim. He unbuttons his shirt, flashing bronzed skin and the scent of his cologne, a virile muskiness loaded with patchouli, oakmoss and elegant woody notes. A masculine impression of a day under the sun, intensified by the thrill of the night.

Both Ella and Él have 12-14 hour longevity. Él has a little more sillage than Ella but neither is something I would consider quiet.

It was also a very liberating time, sexually speaking… when we were working on the development I told Rodrigo Flores-Roux that I wanted to have this vintage 70’s feeling with a little bit of dirtyness in it. In every disco of the 1970’s a mirror ball held central position over the dance floor. The ability to reflect the light in many directions feels very similar to what Él and Ella achieve. Through their collaborative efforts Sr. Huber and Sr. Flores-Roux have made two fragrances which contain a mirror ball of cardamom, honey, and civet within. The reflection of the other notes in both Él and Ella are what makes them distinctive. Él and Ella have reached a new pinnacle for Arquiste. These are both amongst the best this brand has to offer….

Él and Ella come in 100ml bottles of frangance in Eau de Parfum concentration for the price of $190 USD.

 

 

L’Envol de Cartier: Taking Flight

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This must be what the Gods of Olympus smell like, at least according to Mathilde Laurent and French luxury Maison Cartier. The in-house perfumer for Cartier has come up with the brand’s first men’s cologne, L’Envol de Cartier, in eight years and it is set to take everyone to greater heights. To create the scent is to bring to life an idea so that everyone can share it, according to Laurent. She shares that the fragrance was inspired by the exploration of self, where one has to overcome fears and have courage.

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Mathilde Laurent created a beautiful fragrance. L’Envol de Cartier reminds of the freedom and passion of one of the Maison’s greatest legends, the aviator Santos-Dumont, who leaves a legacy of victory, awakening the passion of the memory lovers through a dedicated fragrance to masculinity

The main ingredient for the fragrance stems from ambrosia, a food that was consumed by the Greek gods conferring them with immortality and longevity. Of course, ambrosia doesn’t exist so Laurent had her work cut out for her. With accents of honey, wood, patchouli and musk, the eau de parfum is said to be strong yet not overpowering.

  • Top: Honey accord.
  • Middle: Musk.
  • Base: Guaiac wood, Patchouli

In a nutshell, the fragrance is perfect for those who like to smell good without making a statement, as if that is their natural scent.

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A design breakthrough, the bottle contains a capsule encased in a refillable detachable glass dome

Cartier could have gone all out to seal the honey-colored scent in a complicated and artistic bottle. Instead, the firm chose one that was unique yet not over-the-top, much like the fragrance. Stored in a glass capsule, the fragrance is covered by a detachable dome that helps to capture and reflect light as it shines through the bottle. The idea behind the bottle, comes from having to protect something precious The refillable bottle also features the brand’s signature guilloche motif on the metal filligreed top. The result of the thought and care that goes into creating l’Envol de Cartier is a fragrance that is fuss-free and invigorating for anyone who wears it.

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The L’Envol bottle showcases Cartier’s glassware expertise, retaining Cartier’s timeless aesthetic with elements from their famous guilloché motif on the bottle stopper.

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Once again, the traditional design and the characteristic guilloché finish of Cartier is reflected in each of the bottle’s details, giving life to one of the most representative fragrances of the brand. Finally the savoir-faire of the dome, makes of this bottle the main object to keep as a unique perfume.

The L’Envol de Cartier fragrance come with three bodyproducts. Shower Gel and Deodorant Stick. But also a beautiful dry-oil, this years holy grail, for face and beard.

 

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L’Envol de Cartier Shower Gel, 200 ml

A great way to wake up in the shower, en the perfect way to let go all the stress off the day down the drain and leave your day of hard work behind. Very soft and rich, even for dry skin.

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L’Envol de Cartier Oil for Face and Beard, 28 ml

Recreating the addictive trail of L’Envol de Cartier fragrance, the light texture of scented oil smooths the skin and masters the beard, producing a refined appearance in a single gesture. This dry oil gives comfort and you can use for day and night.

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L’Envol de Cartier Deodorant Stick, 75 ml

Enriched with aloe vera, this deodorant provides a sensation of comfort and softness and ensures a faithful perfuming throughout the day. It features notes of L’Envol de Cartier, a masculine nectar with guaiac wood and honey notes elevated by vaporous musk. This vèry soft L’Envol de Cartier is Paraben-free; aluminum salt-free and alcohol free, wich makes it suitable for sensitive skins, and even just after you shaved your armpits.

L’Envol de Cartier Refillable is availble as Eau de Parfum 50 ml, Refillable Eau de Parfum 100 ml, Eau de Parfum Refill 100 ml, Perfumed Grooming Oil 28 ml , Perfumed Shower gel 200 ml, Perfumed Deodorant Stick 75 ml.

 

First look: Prada introduces L’Homme and La Femme fragrances

Prada has two new notes that have just made their debut in a Steven Meisel sneak peek video. Watch the film here now…

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Following suit with the fashion industry’s move-to-merge trend du jour, Prada is launching two new fragrances, for men and women simultaneously. Aptly named L’Homme and La Femme, the new fragrances are as classic as they monochromatic.

The video, which was shot by Steven Meisel and set to the sound of Elvis Presley’s “Can’t Help Falling in Love” by Seattle-based singer-songwriter Perfume Genius’, sees four faces filmed including Mia Wasikowska, along with Mia Goth, Dane DeHaan and Ansel Elgort.

Soon, here on Yakymour, more about these fragrances…

 

Dior Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Eau Sauvage

The iconic men’s scent Dior Eau Sauvage turns 50 this year, and we’re celebrating with an extra spritz and a bit of history.

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Ask any perfume lover their top fragrances for men and Chtistian Dior’s Eau Sauvage will make the list. (In fact, my own appreciation of the  scent started with a one of the gardener from Yakymour who wears Eau Sauvage).

It’s easy to understand why everyone loves Edmond Roudnitska creaton: Eau Sauvage. The fresh citrus top notes mingle with basil, lavender, cumin and a floral heart atop a woody, green base. It’s light and bright enough to wear every day, but also refined enough to wear with a suit. It’s marketed to men, sure, but the scent is just as at home on women who appreciate citrus and woods. (To me, it’s the ultimate steal-it-from-your-boyfriend fragrance).

After seeing the light in 1966, this year Dior’s Eau Sauvage is celebrating its 50th anniversary. On this occasion, to celebrate, the famed French house highlights the story of this timeless and vivacious fragrance through a fun animated film that is perfectly in line with the spirit of the scent. The short film that moves through the fragrance’s advertising history. From the poolside, to the race car, to the bar (and a quick post-shower stroll too), Eau Sauvage has certainly stood the test of time. It’s a fragrance that manages to be both timeless and undeniably cool and modern, too.

Follow the happenings of a day in the charming life of an elegant Eau Sauvage man by watching this stylish film.

The video pays tribute to the humorous 1960s era through flashes of colors, as Alain Delon, the absolute Eau Sauvage icon, takes over the film with his manly attraction. His features appear on all the faces that constitute the history of the fragrance. As seductive as ever, he surfaces by the pool before he hops into his racing car and escapes.

Dirk Bikkembergs, be Strong, be Wild

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Be strong. Be wild. Be the man who fights for his goals, inside and outside the playground. Dirk by Dirk Bikkembergs is the fragrance for sportsmen, men of style, who are modern and powerful. Dirk aims directly at special consumers who search for a premium sports brand which would offer a modern product of high quality. The new perfume Dirk is ’embodiment of virtue and masculinity of the modern football hero’.

Be strong. Be wild. Be the man who fights for his goals, inside and outside the playground.

This is a fragrance focused on strong will and intensity – two forces which bind football and life into a beautiful game. Light green color of grass in the football field inspired Dirk Bikkembergs to select the color of letters on outer carton and fragrant liquid. The flacon has memorable design, is made of glass and stylized as a football ball. Numerous facets that cut the light and play with strong green shades reflect adrenaline of the game, football glamour and passion.

Model Ignacio Ondategui fronts Dirk Bikkembergs’ debut fragrance campaign for Dirk

Composition of perfume Dirk opens with a ‘super sexy’ fougere combination of green apple, pink pepper and bergamot mixed with geranium, orange blossom and balmy tonka beans. The base is elegant, masculine and cheerful, created of vetiver, animal chords and benzoin.

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Fragrance Dirk is available as a 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette, accompanied with perfumed body care products: 200ml shower gel and 150ml spray deodorant.

Maison Martin Margiela launches four new fragrances

 

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Replica, which is intrinsically linked with memories, will be boosted by the addition of an oriental leather scent, a white floral aldehydic, a green vegetal scent, and a fresh ‘cologne-style’ eau de parfum. The fragrances are named ‘Dancing on the Moon’, ‘Across Sands’, ‘Soul of The Forest’ and ‘Flying’ respectively.

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Maison Martin Margiela is launching four new Eau de Parfum fragrances, continuing its ‘Replica’ Eau de Toilette series, established in 2012

Each fragrance is labelled ‘Gender Anonymous’, reinforcing the house’s dedication to equality and its “non-conformist approach to society gender norms”.

The Eau de Parfum collection retains the same packaging design and bottle structure as the Eau de Toilette scents, comprising a black spray-cap apothecary bottle that signifies nightfall, the precursor to dreams and the awakening of the subconscious. An inky black cord ombré gradient effect is sprayed down the glass, while silver laboratory-style labels add a futuristic touch and reference the house’s signature ‘silverfoil’ that has appeared across both garments and accessories in creative director John Galliano’s ready-to-wear collections. The designer describes the ‘Replica’ Eau de Parfum as “Hi-fi, lo-fi, with a sci-fi finish”.

The new fragrances will launch on September 26.