Oh, Boy: Chanel launches new fragrance

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Fashion designer, Coco Chanel is well known around the world for her fabulous fashion line worn by all the A-list celebrities. What many people don’t realise is, Coco (who’s real name is Gabrielle) was raised in an orphanage which is where she was taught her sewing skills.

After having a brief career as a singer she became friends with, Étienne Balsan and stayed with him just outside of Paris where she lived as a ‘kept woman’ in his mansion, and this is where she began to mingle with Balsans wealthy companions and this is when she met a man who would change her life forever, Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel.

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Arthur Edward Capel loved to read

Captain Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel (1881 – 22 December 1919) was an English poloplayer, possibly best remembered for being a lover and muse of fashion designer Coco Chanel.

Born in Brighton, Sussex, Arthur Capel was a ship-owner, politician, tycoon and polo player . He was the son of Arthur Joseph Capel, a British shipping merchant, and his French-born wife, the former Berthe Andrée A. E. Lorin (1856-1902), and he had three sisters. But today he is better known for his 9 year love affair with Coco Chanel.

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Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel and Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel (middle) in front of the Chanel Boutique in Deauville in 1913

His affair with Chanel apparently began in 1909, when he became acquainted with the then 26 year old mistress of his friend Étienne Balsan. In that time he was already an apparently wealthy self-made man and he supplied Chanel with financial backing, and financed Chanel’s first shops. His own clothing style, notably his blazers, inspired her to put a squared masculine touch on her classic clothing styles, and creation the Chanel look. If it wasn’t for Arthur’s money or style then Chanel would never had had the funds or fashion muse to make what is one of the most well-known designer brands in the world.

The couple spent much time together at fashionable resorts such as Deauville, but.. he was never faithful to Chanel. Their relationship lasted nine years, and even after Capel married in 1918, he continued his affair with Chanel until his death in late 1919.

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Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Étienne Balsan and Arthur Edward ‘Boy‘ Capel

Arthur tragically died in a car crash on Monday 22 December 1919, allegedly en route to a Christmas rendez-vous with Chanel. A roadside memorial was placed at the site of the accident, consisting of a cross bearing the inscription:

A la mémoire du capitaine Arthur Capel, Légion d’Honneur de l’Armée Britannique, mort accidentellement en cet endroit le 22 décembre 1919

He was buried with full military honours at Fréjus Cathedral, in the Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France, on 24 December 1919. After his death Coco began wearing black during her grieving process and she told a friend that the world would mourn with her which is where the ‘little black dress’ evolved from, and why black is no longer tied in hand with association with death but more with elegance and class. Chanel claimed Arthur Edward ‘Boy‘ Capel was the love of her life.

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An exceptional Fresh Aromatic fragrance infused with the timeless elegance

We were so busy waiting for Chanel’s reinterpretation of their No. 5 fragrance titled L’Eau (slated for a fall release) that we didn’t see this one coming at all! The new scent from Chanel is a unisex fragrance created by the house’s master perfumer Olivier Polge. It also becomes the latest (17th) addition to the Les Exclusifs collection and just like Misia (also an Olivier Polge creation), it was inspired by one of Chanel’s closest friends: Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel.  Gabrielle Chanel considered him as more than her soul mate; he was her double and her alter ego. Inspired by their love, Boy Chanel is a vibrant, perfectly balanced scent that challenges tradition and transcends gender.

My way of working on this fragrance was really not to try to make a unisex fragrance but really more to dive into men’s fragrance…and to show how well it could be worn by a woman. So it was not to try to create an in-between fragrance, but a very masculine fragrance. And — like many other things in life — gender is given by the person wearing it.

Olivier Polge

Boy is a masculine fougère with main accords of lavender and rose geranium sourced from the south of France. The composition also includes lemon and grapefruit, a note of rose, orange blossom, sandalwood and heliotropin, plus a hint of vanilla and musk accords. Like the others in the Les Exclusifs collection, it is contained in a simple rectangular bottle, and will become available worldwide this month in in two sizes, 75 and 200 ml Eau de Toilette.

You need this — and so does your boyfriend!

Acqua di Parma fifth men’s fragrance

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Acqua di Parma adds new scent – Colonia Club – to its men’s cologne collection. Making it the fifth in the men’s series of fragrances. The refined cologne is set to make a low key debut this week with a limited preview at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street flagship in Manhattan and in Canada’s Holt Renfrew, before becoming available at other international retail outlets in November.

“These are luxury products, they are not commercial fragrances, they are not mass products, so we remain tied to our [standard] distribution strategy,” said Paola Paganini, group product manager at Acqua di Parma, speaking about the retrained release of Colonia Club.

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Packaged in a rounded glass bottle in a deep emerald-green, the fragrance hits note of lemon, petitgrain, bergamot, mandarin, mint and neroli. The heart of the juice contains lavender, galbanol and geranium, and the drydown is composed of Haitian vetiver, musk and an ambergris accord.

Developed by, François Demachy, LVMH artistic director for olfactory development at LVMH Fragrance Brands, the concept of the scent is inspired by the idea of an active and athletic young man who enjoys equestrian pursuits and frequents a private club.

Acqua di Parma Colonia x Damiani

Acqua di Parma’s story began in 1916 where the brand released the now iconic Colonia, a product representative of Italy at the time, essentially capturing the smell of ‘luxury’ in a way that many have stuggled to replicate ever since. Essentially a fresh and elegant melange of citrus notes, the Colonia opens with a Lemon and Sicillian orange, before delivering the unmistakable woody base notes of Patchouli, Sandelwood and noble Vetiver.

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Celebrating a century of success, Acqua di Parma have collaborated with Italian jewellery brand Damiani to release a special edition collection. Turn back the clocks 100 years and find yourself amongst a pivotal time in art, music, pop culture and of course the beginning of luxury fragrance brand Acqua di Parma.

In honour of the early 19 century tradition which saw gentleman store their favourite fragrances in cases made of silver-which would then be passed down as family heirlooms- Acqua di Parma have teamed up with Italian jewellery specialists Damiani, to create a sterling silver piece worthy of the time.

Noting the importance of the renown Acqua di Parma Colonia design, Damiani have created a unique 925 sterling silver case which ensures the glass bottle can be seen through the delicate interwoven metal swirl embellishments.

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Sterling silver 925 (containing 92.5% pure silver) was the material of choice chosen by esteemed Italian goldsmith Damiani, the pestigious jewellery brand charged with encapsulating the Art Deco Colonia bottle, representative of 100 years of Acque di Parma history. The Acqua di Parma shield is delicately engraved onto the centre of the piece along with a number further enhancing its exclusiveness as one of only one hundred.

Entitled the Acqua di Parma Colonia Damiani Centenary Edition, the design is inspired by the decor of the Teatro Regio in Parma; and by the noble history of luxury perfumery  in general. In the 1920’s it was customary, for aristocrates to display their favourite fragrances in ostentatious bottle holders made of silver and other precious metals, crafted by Italian master jewellers. There were concidered objects d’art , to be handed down through the generations, much like real precious Jewels.

Limited to 100 pieces, each Acqua di Parma Damiani Centenary Edition bottle features an engraved number wich – like the sterling silver hallmark – acts as a symbol of authenticity. The unique case encompasses the classic Acqua di Parma Colonia -a fresh scent which hosts a blend of citrus, floral and woody notes to create a fresh bold fragrance.

  • Top: Lemon, Sicillian orange, Calabrian bergamot
  • Heart: Lavender, Damask rose, Verbena rosemary
  • Base: Vetiver, Sandelwood, Patchouli

The Acqua di Parma Colonia Damiani Centenary Edition is priced at 750 pounds and will be availble exclusively in Harrods from October and from selected retailers.

Come into the world of acquadiparma.com and damiani.com

Tribute to the English spirit: Penhaligon’s Portrait Collection

 

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Penhaligon’s presented their new Portrait Collection. The new line which includes four fragrances with such dramatic names: The Tragedy of Lord George, The Revenge of Lady Blanche, Much Ado About The Duke and The Coveted Duchess Rose is a tribute to the English spirit; between establishment, humour and provocation. In fact… it reveals the secrets of the British aristocracy.

 

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Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George (for men)

Lord George is a wealthy and respected man, the archetypal patriarch. He seems to embody the noblest values of the aristocracy: virtue, respect, loyalty and faithfulness.

 

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Deceptively traditional Lord George. Lord George is a perfect reminder that one should be aware of appearances. He himself maintains that one should never be able to divine what a man is thinking. This ability being, of course, the key to a happy marriage. Honourable, to a tee, his fidelity to King and Country is resolute. His penchant for muttering ‘the flesh is weak’ over the breakfast kippers is entirely without explanation.

  • Top: Brandy
  • Heart: Shaving Soap
  • Base: Tonka Bean

His fragrance reflects his essence; seemingly traditional, yet with hidden secrets. A woody amber fougère from perfumer Alberto Morillas, with rum, tonka bean and ambrox.

 

Penhaligon’s The Revenge of Lady Blanche (for women)

A darling of London Society, and one of the most influential ladies in Britain. Her aloof beauty, mysterious past and blazing passions are scrutinised by all from shop-girls to Royalty. She would do anything to climb the social ladder still further. Her latest scheme is to poison her husband, Lord George, inheriting his wealth and burying his secrets for ever!

 

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Lady Blanche is a picture of devotion, charm – and criminal intentions. A social butterfly with a dangerous bite one might say. Shakespeare did try to warn us ‘hell hath no fury like a woman scorned’. Indeed, a woman does always know. Lady Blanche wishes, oh how she wishes! that she did not. The real crime you see is the inelegance of not having kept all of this where it belongs – in the dark, with the lights off! (Cross her at your peril.)

  • Top: Powdery orris
  • Heart: Narcissus Flower
  • Base: Hyacinth

Her fragrance reflects her very essence. A green floral narcotic, created by perfumer Daphné Bugey. – Charmingly dangerous.

 

Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose (for women)

Daughter of Lady Blanche and Lord George, Rose married a Duke to escape the stifling rigidity of her family and to become the Coveted Duchess Rose. At first, naively romantic, she has now become disillusioned and frustrated in an unsatisfactory marriage.

 

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A fresh, sweet Rose – ready for the picking. Ever since her recent marriage (anything but a bed of roses) our demure Duchess is urgently desirous of desire. Her bosom is aching for release from the corsets of Victorian life, she dreams of nothing but Paradise Regained, again and again. When one’s husband is at the theatre every evening, one does become terribly bored…

  • Top: Mandarin
  • Heart: Rose
  • Base: Musky Wood

Always looking for fun and frivolity (and perhaps love affairs), her fragrance is a not so innocent fresh rose. A woody rose from perfumer Christophe Raynaud.

 

Penhaligon’s Much Ado About The Duke (for men)

Conforming to the expectations of his class, Duke Nelson married the most coveted girl in London: the Duchess Rose. Yet the Duke is eccentric and unusual, his whimsical airs set society tongues wagging. Rumours abound that his marriage is yet to be consummated!

 

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Who could say if it was the evenings spent at the theatre that gave the Duke his ravishing, ravished air. A slight perfume of intrigue engulfs him nevertheless. Exquisitely ubiquitous, a decadent dandy, an utterly charming chap, virulently ambivalent, a thoroughly ambiguous first son-in-law – hearts throb wherever he goes, but not the ones you might think. His wife agrees that the theatre is no place for a Duchess. Sometimes she longs not to be a Duchess…

  • Top: Peppery Rose
  • Heart: Gin
  • Base: Leathery Wood

His perfume is as ambivalent as he is: a floral yet masculine woody fragrance. A spicy woody rose from perfumer Daphné Bugey, with rose, gin and cumin.

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The four Eau de Parfums come in 75ml stylish bottles with gold-plated animal heads as stoppers, priced at £178 ($218).

Arquiste Él & Ella

Perfume has a habit of triggering memories of places, to be sure. Sometimes it can even pull you back to a specific time, too. Carlos Huber the owner and creative director of Arquiste is one who regularly does both. His career in architectural restoration has combined with his passion for fragrance to make sure the brief for his perfumes come from a specific time and place. Up until now those times and places have not been during my lifetime. The newest pair -Él and Ella become the first.

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Carlos Huber grew up on the stories his parents told him of the Acapulco disco Armando’s Le Club. In the early 1970’s Acapulco was the hip destination in Mexico and where the jet set could be found was dancing the night away at Armando’s Le Club. It was a resort version of Studio 54. The only difference here is the party moved from the pool in the daytime on to the dance floor at night. Disco and Acapulco were meant to be together and Armando’s Le Club was its intersection.

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Armando’s was situated on the beach, in the bay. Imagine this pool and a garden and the disco inside with songs like I Feel Love, You Make Me Feel (Mighty Real) and Knock On Wood. This place was where Elizabeth Taylor would go. Bianca Jagger,  Halston, Grace Jones, Sylvester… It was like Studio 54. The same people would be there. So if you would go and be successful flirting with someone, then you would go out to the beach and go skinny dip. That’s a really cool idea.The idea of applying a fragrance in the morning, then you would go to the beach and after that you would go to someone’s house with a pool and have cocktails. After that you put a fresh shirt and you reapply your fragrance to go out dancing at this club. The idea of a fragrance that has been ageing on skin and has macerated. It has been warmed up by the sun, by the euphoria of the night, smoking, drinking… It was also a very liberating time, sexually speaking… “when we were working on the development I told Rodrigo Flores-Roux that I wanted to have this vintage 70’s feeling with a little bit of dirtyness in it”, Carlos Huber said.

armandos-le-clubArmando’s Le Club

Carlos Huber wanted to capture a feminine and a masculine take on this particular setting. He enlisted regular collaborator Rodrigo Flores-Roux to complete this vision. They decided to name these creations Él and Ella (he and she in Spanish). They are each meant to pick up on a part of the experience in 1978 at Armando’s Le Club. Flores-Roux created two distinctly gendered personalities in each of these perfumes.

Arquiste Ella

Ella is the scent of the woman who has finished her sunbathing for the day and has nipped up to her room to slide into a Halston sheath. The neckline plunges as the sheen of perspiration forms droplets which disappear further down. Ella is this woman who stalks the pool deck imperiously only to prowl the dancefloor looking for her equal.

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Ella opens with that scent of clean sweat beaded skin. Sr. Flores-Roux uses angelica root and carrot seed to form this accord. We then follow one of those beads of sweat as it coalesces at the waist. Rose coated with cardamom and honey. This is the scent of seduction as Ella puts out her lure. It all heads into a magnificent animalic chypre base composed of patchouli, vetiver, and civet. The last little bit of dazzle is a cigarette smoke accord which swirls very lightly throughout the base. This is so perfectly balanced to not disrupt the overall mood but to capture a time when smoking was what was hip.

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It’s a sultry night of disco, plunging necklines and champagne-soaked skin. Lights flash and strangers kiss, but it’s her, dancing, that commands the attention. She moves, panther-like, her honeyed skin creating an addictive sweetness and magnetism that only a deep chypre fragrance can deliver. She’s met her match on the dance floor, and it’s her animalic instinct that follows him outside, onto the golden beach, under a silvery moon.

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Él is the scent of that man who also enters Armando’s Le Club. He is dressed for the evening wearing a Nik-Nik shirt unbuttoned down to his navel. There is gold around his neck, more than one, but not too many. There is also a sheen of perspiration underneath his strong chest hair. He is an Él looking for his Ella and across the dance floor that might be her standing there.

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Él opens with a 1970’s power herbal chord of laurel, clary sage, and rosemary. This is so typical of powerhouse men’s fragrances of the time it is almost the equivalent of ‘I am Man hear me roar’. It would have been so easy to let that beast out. Instead Sr. Flores-Roux works at making this a man of intellect as he uses cinnamon leaves to twist that herbal opening into something fantastically satisfying. Cinnamon leaf is an ingredient almost used as an afterthought. Not here. Sr. Flores-Roux uses it as a harness to keep the rampaging herbs from being too strident. It has to be done because the same cardamom and honey that we met in Ella are also here. This is the heart beating underneath the hirsute chest and gold chains. For Él, Sr. Flores-Roux fashions an animalic fougere base. Vetiver and patchouli are transformed with a double dose of animalic as castoreum and civet provide the fur. Oakmoss provides the toothy smile. It is that moment when Él sees Ella and passion takes over the night as the music and lights swirl around them.

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Nighttime at Acapulco’s sultriest disco. Revelry on the dance floor. In the heat of the moment, he smiles coyly and motions to the beach outside, hinting at a midnight swim. He unbuttons his shirt, flashing bronzed skin and the scent of his cologne, a virile muskiness loaded with patchouli, oakmoss and elegant woody notes. A masculine impression of a day under the sun, intensified by the thrill of the night.

Both Ella and Él have 12-14 hour longevity. Él has a little more sillage than Ella but neither is something I would consider quiet.

It was also a very liberating time, sexually speaking… when we were working on the development I told Rodrigo Flores-Roux that I wanted to have this vintage 70’s feeling with a little bit of dirtyness in it. In every disco of the 1970’s a mirror ball held central position over the dance floor. The ability to reflect the light in many directions feels very similar to what Él and Ella achieve. Through their collaborative efforts Sr. Huber and Sr. Flores-Roux have made two fragrances which contain a mirror ball of cardamom, honey, and civet within. The reflection of the other notes in both Él and Ella are what makes them distinctive. Él and Ella have reached a new pinnacle for Arquiste. These are both amongst the best this brand has to offer….

Él and Ella come in 100ml bottles of frangance in Eau de Parfum concentration for the price of $190 USD.

 

 

L’Envol de Cartier: Taking Flight

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This must be what the Gods of Olympus smell like, at least according to Mathilde Laurent and French luxury Maison Cartier. The in-house perfumer for Cartier has come up with the brand’s first men’s cologne, L’Envol de Cartier, in eight years and it is set to take everyone to greater heights. To create the scent is to bring to life an idea so that everyone can share it, according to Laurent. She shares that the fragrance was inspired by the exploration of self, where one has to overcome fears and have courage.

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Mathilde Laurent created a beautiful fragrance. L’Envol de Cartier reminds of the freedom and passion of one of the Maison’s greatest legends, the aviator Santos-Dumont, who leaves a legacy of victory, awakening the passion of the memory lovers through a dedicated fragrance to masculinity

The main ingredient for the fragrance stems from ambrosia, a food that was consumed by the Greek gods conferring them with immortality and longevity. Of course, ambrosia doesn’t exist so Laurent had her work cut out for her. With accents of honey, wood, patchouli and musk, the eau de parfum is said to be strong yet not overpowering.

  • Top: Honey accord.
  • Middle: Musk.
  • Base: Guaiac wood, Patchouli

In a nutshell, the fragrance is perfect for those who like to smell good without making a statement, as if that is their natural scent.

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A design breakthrough, the bottle contains a capsule encased in a refillable detachable glass dome

Cartier could have gone all out to seal the honey-colored scent in a complicated and artistic bottle. Instead, the firm chose one that was unique yet not over-the-top, much like the fragrance. Stored in a glass capsule, the fragrance is covered by a detachable dome that helps to capture and reflect light as it shines through the bottle. The idea behind the bottle, comes from having to protect something precious The refillable bottle also features the brand’s signature guilloche motif on the metal filligreed top. The result of the thought and care that goes into creating l’Envol de Cartier is a fragrance that is fuss-free and invigorating for anyone who wears it.

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The L’Envol bottle showcases Cartier’s glassware expertise, retaining Cartier’s timeless aesthetic with elements from their famous guilloché motif on the bottle stopper.

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Once again, the traditional design and the characteristic guilloché finish of Cartier is reflected in each of the bottle’s details, giving life to one of the most representative fragrances of the brand. Finally the savoir-faire of the dome, makes of this bottle the main object to keep as a unique perfume.

The L’Envol de Cartier fragrance come with three bodyproducts. Shower Gel and Deodorant Stick. But also a beautiful dry-oil, this years holy grail, for face and beard.

 

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L’Envol de Cartier Shower Gel, 200 ml

A great way to wake up in the shower, en the perfect way to let go all the stress off the day down the drain and leave your day of hard work behind. Very soft and rich, even for dry skin.

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L’Envol de Cartier Oil for Face and Beard, 28 ml

Recreating the addictive trail of L’Envol de Cartier fragrance, the light texture of scented oil smooths the skin and masters the beard, producing a refined appearance in a single gesture. This dry oil gives comfort and you can use for day and night.

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L’Envol de Cartier Deodorant Stick, 75 ml

Enriched with aloe vera, this deodorant provides a sensation of comfort and softness and ensures a faithful perfuming throughout the day. It features notes of L’Envol de Cartier, a masculine nectar with guaiac wood and honey notes elevated by vaporous musk. This vèry soft L’Envol de Cartier is Paraben-free; aluminum salt-free and alcohol free, wich makes it suitable for sensitive skins, and even just after you shaved your armpits.

L’Envol de Cartier Refillable is availble as Eau de Parfum 50 ml, Refillable Eau de Parfum 100 ml, Eau de Parfum Refill 100 ml, Perfumed Grooming Oil 28 ml , Perfumed Shower gel 200 ml, Perfumed Deodorant Stick 75 ml.

 

First look: Prada introduces L’Homme and La Femme fragrances

Prada has two new notes that have just made their debut in a Steven Meisel sneak peek video. Watch the film here now…

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Following suit with the fashion industry’s move-to-merge trend du jour, Prada is launching two new fragrances, for men and women simultaneously. Aptly named L’Homme and La Femme, the new fragrances are as classic as they monochromatic.

The video, which was shot by Steven Meisel and set to the sound of Elvis Presley’s “Can’t Help Falling in Love” by Seattle-based singer-songwriter Perfume Genius’, sees four faces filmed including Mia Wasikowska, along with Mia Goth, Dane DeHaan and Ansel Elgort.

Soon, here on Yakymour, more about these fragrances…