Mesmerizing Beauty: Jean Schlumberger’s Fantastical Designs

Big, bold and boundary breaking. These are the hallmarks of Jean Schlumberger’s unique creations. One of the most prolific designers of the 20th century, the visionary elevated the presentation of precious metals and gemstones to new heights.

Widely considered an artistic genius, Schlumberger’s innovative designs remain a cherished collection at Tiffany & Co. His interpretations of nature – sea creatures, flowering plants and exotic animals among them – transformed fine jewelry. More than 50 of his masterpieces are available for purchase at Tiffany & Co’s private Blue Book Collection preview in China this April. They will be included along with more than 500 high jewelry pieces in Shanghai before traveling to other cities across the globe.

Showcasing custom-cut diamonds and colorful paillonné enamel nestled in gold and platinum, Schlumberger’s fantastical expressions are love letters to his affinity for flora and fauna. “I try to make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion”. Schlumberger once said. “I want to capture the irregularities of the universe”.

Below, join us in honoring his legacy with a visual feast of some of the icon’s treasures:

Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Morning Glory Necklace

Capturing the glory of flowers, blooms burst from this rarely created platinum and 18k yellow gold necklace. The design, embodying the designer’s passion for capturing and celebrating the beauty of nature, features sparkling brilliant cut diamonds of over twelve total carats and pink sapphires of more than 81 carats. Five pink sapphires blossems are suspended from an intricate gold vine and accented by diamond encrusted buds. Pink sapphire and diamond earrings perfectly pair with the necklace, are also set in platinum and 18k gold.

Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Vrille Necklace

This necklace, named for the French for ‘tendril’ or ‘spiral’ showcases abstract, surreal blooms, crafted from rubellites, diamonds and 18k yellow gold. The statement piece features more then 100 total carats and brilliant cut diamonds equaling more then 24 carats.

Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Twin Fish Brooch

This marine-inspired brooch connects two fanciful pavé diamond fish with an 18k yellow gold bow as if one is chasing the other in a playful game. Featuring square diamonds of over 2 carat, and brilliant cut diamonds of over 8 carats, the design is the embodiment of Jean Schlumberger’s ingenious and whimsical expressions of sea life. The fish shines brightly with red paillonné enamel fins – an unmistakable hallmark of Jean Schlumberger design.

Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger Sea Anemone Brooch

Full of movement and life – and mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold – this brooch reimagenes the sea creatures in Jean Schlumberger’s unique design vocabulary. Reflecting the artist’s gift for animating his creations. Tiffany’s artisans brought the design to life with more than 26 carats of sapphires, and tsavorites of over 17 carats, and round brilliant cut diamonds intricate gold work.

Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger Spiky Starfish Brooch

Jean Schlumberger’s signatures spike motif starfish is realized in a bold display of brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires (or rubies) , accented with a larger centred brilliant cut diamond. Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold, this five-pointed sea creatures exudes a persona that is unexpected yet completely modern

The artist’s indelible imprint on the world of high jewelry still shines on today with the 2021 Blue Book Collection, Colors of Nature, featuring Schlumberger’s spellbinding pieces. Come into the beautiful world of Tiffany & Co.

Diamonds Ara A Girls Best Friend, but how to choose and buy a diamond

 

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Yes, we get it, diamonds are a girl’s best friend – we’ve all heard this before and so have jewellers around the world drummed this into our collective consciousness ad nauseum. These beautiful little rocks never fail to make our hearts skip a little, whether as a brilliant-cut gem perched high on an engagement ring, as a square princess cut, or cut in a luscious pear shape and set alongside different coloures stones. The world’s best jewellers never seem to run out of ideas and designs. And we just love them all. Buying them, on the other hand, is a different matter altogether, which can range from mildly stressful to downright nerve-wrecking.

When you are planning on purchasing a diamond it is important that you know as much as possible about how diamonds are classified. There are four topics you need to become familiar with: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight.

When you’re buying diamond jewellery, it certainly helps to have good knowledge not just of the product but also the industry that deals in it. This is because whether you end up with the best stone for your budget or an overpriced dud depends nearly entirely on how wisely you choose. Exhibiting at the recent Singapore Jewellery and Gem Fair 2018, local bespoke jeweller Infiniti Jewels shares 10 diamond-buying hacks and tips that you won’t get from just any jewellery merchant. Want to be a savvy jewellery investor? Keep reading.

Rene-Boivin-Emerald-Diamond-Ring-in-Platinum-126757-85557René Boivin Brilliant-Cut Diamond and Emerald Ring in Platinum

 

The famous four C’s

Cut

When we speak of cut we are more interested in the proportions of the diamond as opposed to its shape (Round Brilliant, Marquise, Pear, Princess, etc.) Every diamond regardless of its shape gets it brilliancy and scintillation by cutting and polishing the diamond facets to allow the maximum amount of light that enters through its top to be reflected and dispersed back through its top. A correctly cut, ‘well made’, stone is pictured in diagram 1. As you can see if the angles are correct the light that enters is dispersed properly back through the diamond’s top facets. When a stone is cut too shallow (diagram2) or too deep (diagram3) the light that enters through the top is allowed to escape through the diamond’s bottom and does not allow the maximum beauty of the diamond to be realized.

Diamond-cutflat

The number of facets has very little impact on the ultimate value of a stone

It’s a sales gimmick to market a stone as having a lot of facets but while more cuts simply make a stone sparkle more, it’s just maybe three to four per cent more. Today, with the increased understanding of light dynamics and diamond cutting, many companies have developed new, modified round brilliant cut diamonds.

If designed correctly, these extra facets of the modified round brilliant could benefit the overall beauty of a diamond, such as in 91 facet diamonds. But having additional facets doesn’t automatically mean better sparkle because if the facets are not cut in the right proportion, ultimately it sparkles less.

Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond RingTiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Sixteen Stone Briljant Diamond, VS1 clarity, G color, Total weight Approx 1.14ct,  Yellow Gold and Platinum Band Ring

 

Color

Diamonds come naturally in every color of the rainbow. However most people are concerned with diamonds in the white range. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) rates the body color in white diamonds from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow).

The best color for a diamond is no color at all. A totally colorless diamond allows light to pass through it easily, resulting in the light being dispersed as the color of the rainbow. Colors are graded totally colorless to light yellow. The differences from one grade to the other are very subtle and it takes a trained eye and years of experience to color grade a diamond.

If you’re not buying to invest, G coloured stones are the worthiest buys

D, E, F coloured stones are the best, followed by G, H, I, J. But people in the trade do often group G stones in the colourless category because they’re practically colourless and there’s minimal difference between D, E stones and F, G stones.

If you’re buying to invest, go for D, E, F coloured stones

But if you’re getting a stone as an investment, then it makes sense to get the very best that you can, which means D, E, F colour

If the cut grade is poor or just good, even D colour flawless diamonds will not sparkle well

This affects the ultimate sparkle of a diamond. Experts will be able to tell if a stone has been cut well in the way that highlights its best qualities.

 

Cartier-1895-Solitaire-Platinum-Ring

Cartier Oval-Cut Diamond 2ct up to 3.99ct 1895 Solitaire Platinum Ring

 

Clarity

The clarity of a diamond is determined by the amount and location of flaws, or blemishes, in the diamond when viewed under 10 power (10x) magnification. GIA rates clarity grades in diamonds from Flawless to Imperfect 3 (see chart below). The Diamond Shopping Network offers you diamonds from the Imperfect 1 grade through Flawless.

Most diamonds contain very tiny birthmarks known as ‘inclusions’. An inclusion can interfere with the light passing through the diamond. The fewer the inclusions, the more beautiful the diamond will be.

diamond-clarity

Diamonds have the capability of producing more brilliance than any other gemstone. A diamond that is free of inclusions and surface blemishes is very rare… and therefore very valuable.

It’s a misconception that the more inclusions, the worse the clarity

Clarity is how deep or obvious the inclusion is. There could be just one but really deep, and the stone becomes an SI quality diamond. Compared to a VS2 diamond that could have had several light dots on the surface, the SI stone may not offer poorer clarity even though it’s graded lower. But very often you can’t see these with the naked eye, so it may not matter so much. However, if you’re buying as an investment, it makes sense to aim for as close to D flawless as possible.

Boucheron 3.91 Carat Brilliant-Cut Diamond Platinum Engagement RingBoucheron 3.91ct Briljant-Cur Diamond Ring in Platinum

 

Carat-Weight

This is the weight of a diamond measured in carats. As the carat weight of a diamond increases so does its rarity and therefore its price.

One carat is divided into 100 ‘points’, so that a diamond of 75 points weights .75 carats. The carat-weight of a diamond is the easiest measurement to determine. Most importantly, two diamonds can be of equal carat-weight, but their value can differ greatly due to their cut, color, and clarity.

Carat refers to the weight, not the size

A stone can look larger because it has been cut better but weigh slightly less. It’s not always the bigger the weight the bigger the stone.

Value depends on the best balance of the 4Cs

You can’t just go for carat or colour, or clarity or cut. A 3 carat stone suggests high value but it could be a very low colour and just average quality. It will be far less valuable than a 2 carat D flawless diamond. You have to assess all the variables together and get a balance of what the stone offers.

You’ll get the most bang for your buck by knowing what variables affect you the most.

If you want the best of the 4Cs, prices can and will skyrocket. To work within your budget, you need to decide which of the four Cs matter most to you. For instance, clarity may be less critical because no one can tell with the naked eye if a stone is VVS1 or VS1. On the other hand, carat may be more important in some cases because just by looking, you will be able to estimate the size of the stone.

Prices jump significantly from category to category

There is one pricing bracket for stones under 1 carat, and that makes a big jump when you go into the 1 to 1.5 carat category. Then when you go into the 1.5 to 2 carat category, expect another big jump, and so on. Thus, for maximum savings, what you can consider are stones that come in just under. For instance, instead of a 2-carat stone, go for 1.9 carats.

Certification is important

The most prestigious certification body is GIA. You’ll know that a diamond has been GIA certified when you examine it under the eye-glass and you see its GIA number which has been lasered onto the surface. No two stones have the same GIA number.

Don’t rush into your diamond purchase. Take your time and evaluate your choice carefully. It took billions (yes, billions) of years for nature to form your diamond and the skill of a master diamond cutter to bring your diamond to you. The time you spend now can bring you a lifetime of pleasure, satisfaction, and happiness.

Come into the beautiful worlds of Boucheron, Bvlgari, Cartier, Tabbah, Tiffany & Co.