100 Years of Lipstick

Yvette Labrousse never left her home without fist applying her lipstick. The Cannes-based miss France got her first tube of the red lip color from her mother. And it has since become such a big part of her identity that she even wears it while she was doing her job in her mothers shop.

Miss France, Yvette Labrousse, Begum Um Habibeh Aga Khan

Yvette Labrouse, miss France 1930, the later Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (Click photo to enlarge)

It’s been called the red badge of courage, defined Marilyn Monroe’s unabashed sexuality and was a way for factory-working ‘Rosie the Riveters’ to hold onto their femininity while doing a ‘man’s job’. Its paradoxical history is long and colorful, but whatever the shade, lipstick has left its imprint on the cultural fabric.

Yvette Labrousse Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan

 Portrait of Her Highness The Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan III (private collection)(photo by Dorothy Wilding)  (Click photo to enlarge).

So what is it that makes women coat their lips with crushed beetle guts and processed cow fat day in and day out? For Yvette Labrousse, it made her feel powerful in that time. Coloring her lips was the last thing she did before walking out the door to face the world. The click of the tube opening and closing gives her the comfort of routine. But it’s more than makeup, it’s a source of confidence, sensuality and sometimes even armor.

Yves Saint Laurent YSL Rouge Volupté Shine No. 35 Fuchsia in Grunge Fall 2015

Yves Saint Laurent (Click photo to enlarge)

The intimate relationship between lipstick and ladies goes way back, to the Egyptians who stained their mouths with red clay and iron oxide. Over the centuries it has been seen as both an embellishment of the elite and a scarlet marker of sin. In the Victorian era, when femininity was linked to a childlike innocence and women were prized almost solely for their looks, crimson salves were banned in England. It wasn’t until the turn of the 20th century that lipstick came back into vogue. Pour yourself a drink, put on some lipstick and pull yourself together.

Pour yourself a drink, put on some lipstick and pull yourself together, Elizabeth Taylor, actress

Along with shattering countless other taboos, Hollywood also brought lipstick into the mainstream. While some women started secretly tinting their lips at home, actresses began coloring their pouts onscreen. And once Sarah Bernhardt, dubbed ‘the most famous actress in the world’, unveiled her red lips both on and off the red carpet, it was just a matter of time before others followed suit.

Christian Louboutin Rouge Matte Louboutin fall 2015

Christian Louboutin Rouge Matte Louboutin (Click photo to enlarge).

Until the early 1900s, lip salves were made primarily from carmine dye, extracted from dried insects, and applied with a brush. But around 1915 lipstick started appearing in cylindrical tubes, and within a few years everyone, from Estee Lauder to Elizabeth Arden to Chanel, was selling it. By 1936, the New York Times declared that lipstick was ‘as essential as clothes’ and ‘almost as vital as food’, and by 1940, 90 percent of American women wore it. “It wasn’t just lipstick, it was and is an icon,” says Veronique Vienne, a former art director and journalist for a number of American women’s magazines, including Harper’s Bazaar, Redbook and Elle.

Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Matte Sculpting Lipstick in Stronger Fall 2015

Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Matte Sculpting Lipstick in Stronger Fall 2015 (Click photo to enlarge)

As fashion and makeup trends have evolved over time, so has lipstick’s composition and color palette. Most contain some strain of wax, oil, fat, emollient and pigment. In the past, cow brains were the fat of choice, because they were cheap and just the right texture. And emollient, which typically includes vitamin E or aloe vera, acts as a moisturizer. Tints are produced using a combination of plant, animal, mineral or synthetic dyes, and there is a dizzying spectrum of shades, from the classic Coco by Chanel to Urban Decay’s F-Bomb. But regardless of brand or shade, lipstick and its cylinder often evoke phallic symbolism: Think about its long, rounded shape that grows in size before touching your mouth …(Sorry, nothing I can do. This is what psychologists say!)

Guerlain Lipstick Neiges et Merveilles Christmas Collection 2015/2016

Guerlain Lipstick Neiges et Merveilles Christmas Collection 2015 (Click photo to enlarge)

And yet it tends to be the first makeup accessory mothers give their daughters, and it’s a must-have for many women, even those who forego eye shadow and foundation. There’s simply no other beauty product that possesses its cultural prominence. Perhaps Elizabeth Taylor best captured lipstick’s powerful influence when she instructed: “Pour yourself a drink, put on some lipstick and pull yourself together”.

Dolce&Gabbana Sophia Loren No.1 Red Lipstick

Dolce & Gabbana Sophia Loren No.1 Red Lipstick, 2015 (Click photo to enlarge)

Since making its debut in push-up tubes 100 years ago, lipstick has been helping women pull themselves together, providing them with a stamp of self-approval that says: I know who I am, and I’m not afraid to flaunt it. And there are many who’d agree with Yvette Labrousse who insists, “I can’t not wear it.”

by Jean Amr

Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium

YSL has introduced the new Rock ‘n’ Roll interpretation of the iconic Opium which came out in the 80s. Launched in late 2014 in Europe and 2015 in the US, this rock glam version, created by master perfumers Nathalie Lorson and Marie Salamagne, features notes of black coffee, white floral and vanilla. A spicy oriental fragrance for women with a black coffee infusion of the original Opium perfume.

YSL Black Opium Yves-Saint Laurent Eau de Parfum

Designed with a ‘glam rock aesthetic’ in mind (that’ll be the black and silver glitter encrusted bottle then), you’ll find your olfactory senses are hit with key notes of black coffee for a shot of adrenaline (the brand have actually described this as addictive, so that makes sense too), white florals to instantly seduce, and vanilla for sweetness and sensuality. This one definitely delights the senses!

YSL Black Opium Yves-Saint Laurent Eau de Parfum

The original Opium bottle is glammed up with a black sparkling outside and pink juice (Click photo to enlarge).

Like it’s older red sister, I Love this fragrance! A beautiful oriental scent! The beauty of the bottle and the technical stuff aside, this fragrance is not for those who love sickly sweet scents; this is a ‘strong’, (vèry) sexy perfume, best suited for night time (although there would be gladly(!) enough rebels who wilI wear it all the time), and probably best avoided if you don’t want to seduce passersby just with a swish of hair across your neck!

Notice: I can’t say it enough times: frangrances like this, when you spray them on, from at least 25 – 30cm distance. So it can develop in the right way!

London based model Edie Campbell is the face of the campaign shot by photographer Txema Yeste and directed by Daniel Wolfe

Scent Classification: Spicy Oriental

  • Top: black coffee, pink pepper, pear
  • Heart: jasmine, orange blossom
  • Base: vanilla, patchouli, musk, cedar

This fragrance is available as an eau de parfum in three sizes: as 100ml, 50ml and 30ml. spray.

Rating: 8.8/10

by Jean Amr

A piece of history: Perfume Houses

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What is your favorite bottle? (Click photo to enlarge)

We all have favourite perfume houses, do you? Brands, designers, independent and artisans. But whether you want to dig more deeply into the heritage and stories behind a name that you love, or simply to explore the universe of perfume houses (historic and contemporary) this is where you start.  Discover these fascinating stories through archive material and photography, historic advertising or today’s videos, and bring perfume alive…

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What is your favorite perfume? (Click photo to enlarge).

Do you all want to know about perfume house: Guerlain, Acqua di Parma, Caron, or Annick Goutal?

Or would you like to know more background from your favorite designer: Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Patou, Pierre Balmain, Lanvin, Viktor & Rolf, Michael Kors or Calvin Klein ….

Or would you like to go more Italian style like: Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Trussardi, Gian Franco Ferré, Moschino, Valentino, Cerruti 1881, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi or Gucci……

Or more interested in the background of your jewelers perfume like: Cartier, Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin, Poiray, Bvlgari,or Van Cleef & Arpels

Or would you like to know everything about the artists who created this beautiful scents?

The houses you will find under there Tags: ‘A Piece of History’, ‘Fragrances & Perfumes’, or look for a specific name…  about the artist, you will find under: ‘The Noses’

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Do you prefer a new or a classic perfume (Click photo to enlarge).

Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Patou Joy Forever, Elie Saab Le Parfum, Roja

‘Everything you wanted to know about fragrances, their creaters, rhe brands…
…………but where afraid to ask’.

Here on Yakymour! Hope you will enjoy!

by Jean Amr

Introducing YSL’s New Watercolor Nail Polishes

YSL La Laque Couture Splash Tints.jpg

With summer fast approaching, life is about to get simpler: A slice of watermelon becomes the best dessert; you can throw on a dress and sandals and a hat and stroll to your destination; beauty regimens get lighter (good-bye foundation, hello tinted moisturizer with SPF) and brighter. And, though we don’t always think of it, there’s often a newfound ease to our nail strategies.

Take YSL’s limited-edition La Laque Couture Splash Collection varnishes – which are a bit like watercolors for your fingertips that leave the faintest tint behind. Think of each shade like a quick coat of pretty, translucent lacquer, instead of a full-on nail situation, to go along with that lower-maintenance frame of mind.

 

ysl-sheer-nail-polishes-jelly-nail-2015

Brush on a layer of the company’s red (Rouge Wet), magenta (Fuchsia Rain), pink (Rose Splash), or tangerine (Orange Drop), let it air-dry – and be done.

YSL La Laque Couture Splash Collection, $27 each.

 

 

 

 

Yves Saint Laurent Supreme Bouquet limited edition fragrance, coated with 24k gold particles

yves-saint-laurent-supreme-bouquet

Floral fragrances hold a very special place in a woman’s heart.Yves Saint Laurent, like a florist has composed a bouquet of fragrance, to encapsulate the tear of joy and feminine happiness. Yves Saint Laurent’s limited edition Supreme Bouquet fragrance is drenched in tuberose, exotic ylang and luscious jasmine scents, its like walking in a spring flower garden on a sunny afternoon. The fragrance also comes adorned from the inside of the liquid perfume with particles covered in real 24k gold that are meant to illuminate the scent.

Created by nose Dominique Ropion, the olfactory recalls the artful elegance of its predecessor fragrance from YSL’s Oriental Collection that was launched in 2013. The new luxury edition collection gives it a vibrant tribute, focusing on its fresh, sincere accents. The radiating bouquet of white flowers tempered by the vibration of a glow amber wood accord.

 

Yves Saint Laurent Supreme Bouquet 80ml.jpg

The fragrance dresses up in an iconic glass flacon adorned with golden curls of a latticework pattern. Like a jewel, the bottle throne in Majesty in a case of inspiration Haute Joaillerie. The limited luxury edition Supreme Bouquet fragrance comes in one size, with a price tag of €272/ $358 for 80 ml. The Yves Saint Laurent Oriental Collection also includes Splendid Wood, Majestic Rose, Noble Leather.

 

 

Artist Gardar Eide Einarsson designs scent bottles for YSL

Gardar Eide Einarsson (Norwegian, b. 1976) is an artist whose work encompasses installation, printmaking, painting and sculpture. His work has been critically acclaimed and internationally exhibited. In his work, he critically explores various forms of social transgression and arguments for political subversion and appropriates and recontextualizes imagery from subcultures. His artistic practice comprises a wide range of media, such as text, installations, and drawing.

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Einarsson’s work incorporates acts of appropriation and the re-contextualization of imagery and information. He adopts and endows elements of cultural ephemera with a political charge, attempting to transform various materials into signifiers of dissent. His sources range from book cover graphics, mail-order catalogues, police instruction manuals, everyday objects and institutional architecture.

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme.jpgYves Saint Laurent L’Homme Art Edition by Gardar Eide Einarsson 

Yves Saint Laurent, has tied up with the Norwegian artist who lives and works in New York City and Tokyo. Referring to them as ‘mini sculptures’, the Norwegian has redesigned the packaging of three perfumes including L’Homme, La Nuit de L’Homme and L’Homme Libre.

I think these limited edition flacons can be considered as halfway between fragrances and works of art. For most men, it will just be their usual fragrance, but I think it could also have a secondary function, like a sort of miniature sculpture

Gardar Eide Einarsson

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Libre.jpgYves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Art Edition by Gardar Eide Einarsson 

Einarsson, renowned for his work that combines installations, photographs and paintings, has focused on a theme of ‘contemporary masculinity’ to create an artistic and vibrant design.

My inspiration for these three fragrances’ artwork, was related mainly to two things. First of all, there was this idea of masculinity. What is masculinity and how it can be portrayed. Secondly, I felt that there was some kind of parallel that could be made between the perfume and painting. Between the way one expresses oneself through scent and the way an artist expresses himself through abstract painting . So I wanted to do something that was quite abstract and painterly in a way.

Gardar Eide Einarsson

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme.jpgYves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L’Homme Art Edition by Gardar Eide Einarsson 

Following on from other innovative beauty launches for the label, with these particular fragrances L’Homme offers citrus, spicy, warm and woody notes; La Nuit de L’Homme focuses on a sensual, warm scent with oriental accords; while L’Homme Libre provides a fresh floral scent.

 

 

 

 

Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses

Pink Roses GIF.gif

Maison Yves Saint Laurent launches a new perfume for women, Paris Premieres Roses. This years new limited edition perfume shows up to celebrating roses and their romantic nature. Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses, as the previous editions, is created in a romantic, feminine way leaving a nice and tempting trail of a wonderful pleasant rosy smell. This perfume celebrates the 30th birthday of Yves Saint Laurent’s legendary Paris perfume.

Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses is a romantic perfume with sweet and inviting notes of Centifolia rose, peony, lily of the valley, bellflower, velvety violet and refreshing orange blossom along with white peony notes. The base calmly and romantically lies on the skin leaving it sensual and desired due to creamy accords of precious sandalwood and white musky notes.

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Paris Premieres Roses has the same bottle shape and design as the previous editions, yet brighter and lighter. This perfume inspires a fresh aroma ideal for daily use and will please almost all women of all ages.

Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses will be available as 125ml Eau de Toilette Legere.

 

 

 

 

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic visual.jpg

Yves Saint Laurent launches a new masculine fragrance with a refreshing aroma, L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic – a follow up to 2011’s L’Homme Libre. The new fragrance, which is created by perfumer Olivier Polge, is more about a free and lively perfume with a pure and clean aroma.

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic is a citrusy/woody fragrance composed of lemon, pink pepper, verbena, basil, violet leaf, aquatic notes, cashmere woods and musky notes.

 

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic flacon.jpg

The flacon of Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic has almost the same design as the original perfume, yet the transparent bottle and the chrome stopper promises ‘more freedom’.

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Cologne Tonic is a limited edition fragrance available in 60 and 100ml Cologne Tonic.

 

 

 

A new edition of Yves Saint Laurent Elle

 

 

Yves Saint Laurent Elle Limited Edition 2012

Frensch maison Yves Saint Laurent throws out a new flanker to of the original Elle fragrance,  Elle Limited Edition 2012. This perfume is created to refresh and revitalizing during hot summer days, as its cool and fresh aromatic notes ideally awakes positive and freezing feelings.

The perfect fragrance to take you from lazy summer days to hedonistic summer nights.

This years edidition of Yves Saint Laurent Elle opens with mandarin and grapefruit touched with flowery notes of peony, pink pepper, raspberry and Sambac jasmine. The base is composed of amber, benzoin and vetiver that offer a long-lasting and delightful smell.

Yves Saint Laurent Elle Limited Edition 2012 is available as 90 ml Eau de Toilette.

 

 

 

 

 

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto

MANIFESTO by Yves Saint Laurent introduces proudly their new ambassadress Jessica Chastain

French Maison Yves Saint Laurent will launch its new perfume for women, Manifesto later this year. It is announced that gorgeous actress Jessica Chastain will be the face to Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto Perfume. The fashion house describes Manifesto Perfume to be a ‘spontaneous’ and ‘free spirited’ fragrance.

Yves Saint Laurent is a brand that inspires me deeply. Since its creation, the brand has conveyed strong values that I cherish, such as unwavering commitment, absolute love and feminine audacity. This new fragrance is the emblem of it all. I am thrilled to be a part of this beautiful adventure.

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto will delight with its notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, blackcurrant, cedar core and sandalwood.

More about Yves Saint Laurent’s new fragrance soon here on Yakymour….